Cavalier 51

[90grad]

Here is the compressor:

[90grad]

And the side:

[Jim]

Wayne,

Glad to hear everything is in good condition!
I apologize for the scare regarding the compressor!

If you can take a photo of the area in the yellow circle, this will help...
There was a recent discussion regarding this type of coin mech and setting on free play very easily. One or two 6-32 screws approx. 1" long can be threaded in where the arrow is pointing. This will move the cam(s) so the crank handle cam can pass by/under thus allowing a free vend.

[90grad]

Jim,

Free vend works fine.  I recall that discussion and pulling back the lever was the first thing I did to check the rest of the mechanism.

I've been reading the coin mech book.  I believe I have a 600 series mech.  I am planning on posting some more photos today to maybe figure out why it's kicking out the nickels.  

Where you have circled on the picture, there are two slots where the coins must sit to trip the lever.  The one closest to the machine is the smaller, dime slot.  I thought maybe this was a dime machine.  So, I put in a dime (both thru the mech and then directly into the slot on the lever mechanism).  It wouldn't vend.  I also tried it with just a nickel in the larger, nickel slot on the vending lever mechanism.  Nothing.  So, I put both a nickel and dime in the respective slots and it worked.  Now, I just can't get the coinc mech to accept nickels.  I'll try to get a picture soon.

[90grad]

Here's the picture of the slug rejector.  I took off the front cover.  The blue arrow indicates where the nickels need to go (behind the plate).  The red arrow indicates where they are going (in front of the plate and out to the coin return).  So, is this plate the issue?

[90grad]

Sorry, forgot the attachment again.

[90grad]

Success!!  I re-read the slug rejector manual and saw where a nickel has to bounce (literally) off an anvil, clear a post, and then proceed into the accepted slot.  I noticed the anvil on my mech was covered by a little, two-prong gizmo (for lack of a better word).  Apparently, said gizmo was installed to give the nickel enough bounce.  I took the gizmo off and the nickels still weren't accepted.  I decreased the bend in the prongs and wham-o, it works.  Tried 20 times (that's the engineer in me) and the nickel was accepted each time.  Here's a photo.

[BrianB]

Wayne,

Looks like a good solid machine. Let me know how things go. This should be mutually beneficial since your machine and mine are exactly alike.

I just recently sent out my coin entry plate to be chromed. I'll let you know how that turns out. If you do send yours or DIY, the plate is made of brass and then chrome over that. It helps to know this so that when you contact the plater who will be doing the work, he'll know what he's working with or what he has to look forward too.

[90grad]

Brian,

Thanks, and the coin mech info is great.  How long does it take for yours to cool (see my earlier post regarding time)?

[Jim]

Also remember that these slug rejectors are designed to function best at a perfect level or plumb both side to side and back to forward depending on which way you perceive things...

If the bar, located in the circled area, is split, you should have two 6-32 holes where the arrow points enabling you to unlock one or the other price. Ex. The slot closest to the machine door is for the dimes as you stated, well, screw in a 1" 6-32 into this side and the coin mech will only accept nickels, thus a 5 cent machine. Do the same thing for the nickel side after removing the dime side 6-32 and thread it into the nickel side and you'll have a dime only machine that vends at 10 cents. Remove both screws and you have a 15 cent machine.
The only thing that can throw a monkey wrench in here is if the circled area has a solid bar, then chances are this is a 10 cent mech and requires either one dime or two nickels...
Hopefully some of this makes sense and isn't redundant...