bubba
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« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2006, 05:39:51 am » |
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Terry... that sounds like what I need to do. I actually made the machine work last night for the first time. The rejector was able to pass dimes without trouble but was nickels were getting stuck. I did wash it with spray nine and hose, which did clean all the funk and grease off it. If its the original changer on the machine, then it is supposed to take nickels...
One other thing I need is a picture of the inside compartment.... My bottle door does not stay closed. There must be a spring or something I am missing.
For the electrical system, I changed all the wires for the main part of the machine. I will order new fans and the condenser fan just started making noise after my pressure washing the other day. I will also order a new starter system for the compressor.
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Ken
V-63 -Bottles 2-Cavalier USS-64 VMC ST56B Royal Crown - being built Vendo HA56C Coke 2-V63C DP V63C Coke U-Select-It 5cent candybar machine
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2006, 11:29:39 am » |
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Hey Bubba, order a new 3 in 1 starter but don't install it until this compressor or one of your other machines goes bad. It's nice to keep around especially for troubleshooting. Set the rejector on a flat surface and drop in a nickle. Watch it drop and you will see where it chooses to reject rather than accept. You may find an obstruction or an adjusting screw.
I know that the plastic slug rejectors are reccomended to be cleaned with hot soapy water. Does anyone here really know if this was also reccomended for the steel rejectors? Like Terry, I prefer to use fine steel wool on the coin paths, (although the small steel fibers end up sticking to the magnets).
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Glen
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collecture
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« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2006, 12:21:59 pm » |
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In my older manuals, they suggest cleaning rejectors in Carbon Tetrachloride (which is now known to be hazardous to your health and had warnings even then). This was changed in my later manuals to say HOT water and Ajax or similar detergent (hotter the better as it evaporates quicker). Suggestion for cleaning under the magnets were to bend the end of a small file into a hockey club shape, wrap a thin cloth around it and swipe under the magnet. The anvil (where the nickel bounces) should be kept clean and can be accessed through the triangular shaped hole on the back. Also the two screws that hold the anvil should be as tight as you can get them - a loose anvil will prevent the nickel from bouncing correctly. Without any concern for slugs and such, the deflectors and separators can be pushed all the way out to insure acceptance of the designated coin.
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72 S-48 DP Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55 1930s DP Counter Cooler Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand) Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V. VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60 Victor C-14
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bubba
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« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2006, 02:55:11 pm » |
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Thanks for the info. It more looks like an issue to be cured with some steel wool. Its not being rejected, its getting stuck right by the first magnet.. I also remember reading that there should be no oil on it, right?
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Ken
V-63 -Bottles 2-Cavalier USS-64 VMC ST56B Royal Crown - being built Vendo HA56C Coke 2-V63C DP V63C Coke U-Select-It 5cent candybar machine
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collecture
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« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2006, 03:05:18 pm » |
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Quote | I also remember reading that there should be no oil on it, right? |
Absolutely no oil - when dirt gets mixed with it, it just becomes gummy. I use powdered graphite on the cradles and cradle posts. As far as the magnet, some rejectors have an adjustment screw located at the bottom of the scavenger assembly that will adjust the magnet height. If not, just lift the scavenger assembly up and exert a little twist on the magnet plate thereby making a little more clearance for the nickel.
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72 S-48 DP Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55 1930s DP Counter Cooler Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand) Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V. VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60 Victor C-14
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sodaworks
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« Reply #15 on: July 19, 2006, 11:51:48 pm » |
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I remove the magnets from the unit while cleaning. Try using powder graphite.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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bubba
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« Reply #16 on: July 20, 2006, 05:45:31 am » |
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ok.. I'll have a look at it and see what I can do. I am having a party the last weekend of the month, and I want to have this machine working for the party. So far, I have it rewired and cooling very well--- about 30deg. I have a manual for the machine, but its seems to be more of a parts manual. I don't have a bottle loading diagram, and I know there is a special way to load the machine. Does anyone have an instruction sheet, or can walk me through step by step to load the machine? For the time being, I have been playing with bottled water. These should work, right?
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Ken
V-63 -Bottles 2-Cavalier USS-64 VMC ST56B Royal Crown - being built Vendo HA56C Coke 2-V63C DP V63C Coke U-Select-It 5cent candybar machine
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bubba
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« Reply #17 on: July 20, 2006, 08:50:13 pm » |
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I took a pic of the bottle chute area.. the flap doesn't stay closed.. any idea what is missing? Also, I need some instructions on loading the machine.
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Ken
V-63 -Bottles 2-Cavalier USS-64 VMC ST56B Royal Crown - being built Vendo HA56C Coke 2-V63C DP V63C Coke U-Select-It 5cent candybar machine
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collecture
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« Reply #18 on: July 20, 2006, 09:02:19 pm » |
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I'd get a manual, but I would think a spring of some sort. Every flap I've ever seen utilizes a spring of some kind.
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72 S-48 DP Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55 1930s DP Counter Cooler Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand) Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V. VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60 Victor C-14
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sodaworks
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« Reply #19 on: July 20, 2006, 11:36:03 pm » |
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I'll look at mine tomorrow.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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