Rewire machine

[bubba]

I am starting to do a "get it working" restore on my VMC88. Basically, I am going to fix whats broke just to make the machine run. I have to rewire the AC. What gauge SO cord does everyone use? The machine says 9amps,.. my guess is 16ga came out of the machine. I guess the starter on the compressor is all original. It did work before I got zapped--- Is it worth replacing the starter for this, or just run it? I have a party at the end of the month, and I really want to make the machine work safely and properly for the party...

[MoonDawg]

If this is your first re-wire I suggest you order a new wiring harness from one of our suppliers. Very quick and easy to install.

[sodaworks]

I agree, but I would also replace both fans motors as well. '>

[bubba]

I talked to Steve at funtronics about a harness about 2 months ago, and he said there is no real wire harness for this machine. Then he said he would make me something, and he never did.... Its not rocket science by any means.... I have to put 2 wires on the thermostat and its done. I thought about changing the fans, and I still may do that... All of the rubber cord was dried out and insulation falling off.  It looked like 16ga cord, so that is what I replaced it with. The power cord on another 10amp machine I have used a 16ga cord, so I figured it should be ok.

[joesquid]

I use standard 16 GA strand wire bought from Home Depot or Lowe's.  Usually three wire works best as it gives you power, return, and a separate ground to prevent from getting bit.  I've tried 14 GA to provide better heat dissipation in the power line but found it's usually too thick to run properly and not as flexible as 16 GA.  16 GA is also good for up to 15 amps steady current.

Hope this helps!

[bubba]

Thanks Eric.. Thats what I ended up using throughout the whole machine.. I fired it up last night, and it all worked well. Machine got cold, I didn't get zapped and it didn't blow the fuse... Now, I need to give the inside a good cleaning, and then I'll test the mechanical side...

Now, before I do something stupid... The slug rejector can go in a bucket of warm soapy water to clean it? What kind of maintenance gets done to the rest of the coin mechanism? There is no electric on it, but I do see some fingers and levers that appear to be a bit sticky....

[Jim]

Ken,

Others have recommended running the slug rejector through the dish washer and getting good results.

[bubba]

I thought I read that, but it just sounds too wierd... I cleaned the whole thing with spray nine today and the pressure washer..it looks good, but I may run it through the dishwasher tomorrow...

[davethebirdman]

Hi Ken

I have run two rejectors through the dishwasher and held my breath on each occassion but had no need to fear. They came out just fine. The Mrs wasn't too happy but it did the trick for me.

Dave

[sodaworks]

I use solvent and 000 steel wool on the coin paths prior to the dish washer.

[bubba]

Terry... that sounds like what I need to do. I actually made the machine work last night for the first time. The rejector was able to pass dimes without trouble but was nickels were getting stuck. I did wash it with spray nine and hose, which did clean all the funk and grease off it. If its the original changer on the machine, then it is supposed to take nickels...

One other thing I need is a picture of the inside compartment.... My bottle door does not stay closed. There must be a spring or something I am missing.

For the electrical system, I changed all the wires for the main part of the machine. I will order new fans and the condenser fan just started making noise after my pressure washing the other day. I will also order a new starter system for the compressor.

[MoonDawg]

Hey Bubba, order a new 3 in 1 starter but don't install it until this compressor or one of your other machines goes bad. It's nice to keep around especially for troubleshooting.
  
        Set the rejector on a flat surface and drop in a nickle. Watch it drop and you will see where it chooses to reject rather than accept. You may find an obstruction or an adjusting screw.

        I know that the plastic slug rejectors are reccomended to be cleaned with hot soapy water. Does anyone here really know if this was also reccomended for the steel rejectors?  Like Terry, I prefer to use fine steel wool on the coin paths, (although the small steel fibers end up sticking to the magnets).

[collecture]

In my older manuals, they suggest cleaning rejectors in Carbon Tetrachloride (which is now known to be hazardous to your health and had warnings even then). This was changed in my later manuals to say HOT water and Ajax or similar detergent (hotter the better as it evaporates quicker). Suggestion for cleaning under the magnets were to bend the end of a small file into a hockey club shape, wrap a thin cloth around it and swipe under the magnet. The anvil (where the nickel bounces) should be kept clean and can be accessed through the triangular shaped hole on the back. Also the two screws that hold the anvil should be as tight as you can get them - a loose anvil will prevent the nickel from bouncing correctly. Without any concern for slugs and such, the deflectors and separators can be pushed all the way out to insure acceptance of the designated coin.

[bubba]

Thanks for the info. It more looks like an issue to be cured with some steel wool. Its not being rejected, its getting stuck right by the first magnet.. I also remember reading that there should be no oil on it, right?

[collecture]

Quote

I also remember reading that there should be no oil on it, right?

Absolutely no oil - when dirt gets mixed with it, it just becomes gummy.
I use powdered graphite on the cradles and cradle posts. As far as the magnet, some rejectors have an adjustment screw located at the bottom of the scavenger assembly that will adjust the magnet height. If not, just lift the scavenger assembly up and exert a little twist on the magnet plate thereby making a little more clearance for the nickel.

[sodaworks]

I remove the magnets from the unit while cleaning. Try using powder graphite.

[bubba]

ok.. I'll have a look at it and see what I can do. I am having a party the last weekend of the month, and I want to have this machine working for the party. So far, I have it rewired and cooling very well--- about 30deg. I have a manual for the machine, but its seems to be more of a parts manual. I don't have a bottle loading diagram, and I know there is a special way to load the machine. Does anyone have an instruction sheet, or can walk me through step by step to load the machine? For the time being, I have been playing with bottled water. These should work, right?

[bubba]

I took a pic of the bottle chute area.. the flap doesn't stay closed.. any idea what is missing?  Also, I need some instructions on loading the machine.

[collecture]

I'd get a manual, but I would think a spring of some sort. Every flap I've ever seen utilizes a spring of some kind.

[sodaworks]

I'll look at mine tomorrow.

[bubba]

Tom.. I do have a manual, but it only appears to be a parts manual.  Hmm.. I printed the manual the other day, and it appears that a few pages didn't print. I am looking at my pdf, and the loading is in there.. '>  '> I'll have a look at the parts diagram and see if I can see a spring...

Terry.. Thanks

[collecture]

Now you are set!
Did you get the rejector accepting nickels?

[bubba]

I haven't messed with that yet.. I'm having a hard time with priorities right now. I've got soo many things close to done, and I want them all done at once... This rejector will be done one way or another by the weekend. Is a metal rejector a metal rejector? I have an electric coinco that wasn't working, but the rejector was...

[sodaworks]

Bubba,
 There's a spring on the center of the shaft that hinges the flapper door. Mine is visable by looking up into the hinge from the outside. Looks to be around 1/2" long. Designed to tention the door just like the bottle door on a VMC33.

[bubba]

Thanks Terry... I was looking at it tonite... I think I got it all figured out. That spring is broken, so gotta get a new one. I also tried to load the machine with plastic water bottles, but they just get stuck on themselves, and don't come out. I then tried a bunch of empty beer bottles in the machine. I've got the loading process down, and I was able to make the machine work. I did have one stack drop a few bottles on one dime though.. good thing I'm not using the machine to make money...Is there any type of adjustment on the clearances, or is this just something that happens?

I got the slug rejector working... pulled a few of the pivots off. cleaned as much as I could with the dremel and a wire wheel, graphite on the pivots and reassembled. I also added some clearance to the magnets (atleast I think thats what that screw does). I also had a major malfunction while removing the rejector.. I broke the release lever while removing it. I hope I can swap it with another one I have here....

[MoonDawg]

Quote (bubba @ July 13 2006,7:05)

I have a party at the end of the month, and I really want to make the machine work safely and properly for the party...

Get it cooling and vending properly first.   If your slug rejector goes haywire during the party, be prepared with plan "B", -- -- figure out how to set your coin mech to freeplay now................

[collecture]

Quote

figure out how to set your coin mech to freeplay now

Glen,
I haven't played with it extensively, but I don't think you can set the large door mech (that is what an 88 uses - isn't it?) to free vend. It doesn't have a screw to push back the 'fingers' like the small door mech. If you know how, please divulge the secret.

[bubba]

Quote (MoonDawg @ July 22 2006,11:18)

Quote (bubba @ July 13 2006,7:05) I have a party at the end of the month, and I really want to make the machine work safely and properly for the party... Get it cooling and vending properly first.   If your slug rejector goes haywire during the party, be prepared with plan "B", -- -- figure out how to set your coin mech to freeplay now................

I'd appreciate that info '>... I can make the electric changer work free, but have no clue on the mechanical ones...

[MoonDawg]

Yes you can free vend a large mech. The row of "fingers" at the top are protruding into the coin slots. If they are lifted up out of the way using a spring or some wire, the handle will operate just fine.

[collecture]

Quote

If they are lifted up out of the way using a spring or some wire, the handle will operate just fine.

I guess I should have phrased my question better earlier. NRI did not incorporate a way to set the LD mechs to free vend like the SD mechs with a simple turn of the screw pushing the fingers back. It would have to be a jerry-rig of some sort. Maybe that is why some of the large door mech fingers are missing or butchered or... '>

[bubba]

Gonna have to give it a try... thanks '>

I did pull the rejector somewhat apart and cleaned the paths, cleaned some of the pivot shafts and hit them with some graphite.. it seems to be working now. Eventually, I'm gonna have to tear the whole thing down, but its working for now...