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« on: February 22, 2006, 10:51:41 am » |
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Hi guys, it's been a long time.
So here's the deal. After having my V-110 for almost a year and it working well, recently the lever has been sticking in the "down" position almost everytime that I vend.
Incidentally, it is on "free vend", but that should not matter at all, because it was on "free vend" when it worked great earlier.
Anyway, when I want a bottle, I push the lever down all the way, and instead of it popping back up to the starting position again (and me grabbing my bottle), it stays stuck down. I then must whack it many times with the heel of my hand until it eventally comes loose and rises back up to the starting position.
It kills me (and I'm sure you) to be whacking the antique lever, but that is the only way I can get my drink each time.
It is very annoying for me (because I use it many times each day in my kitchen), but more importantly, it is embarrassing when friends and company come over and I go from being cool (by having my soda machine collection) to a dork by whacking the "broken" machine after each person tries to get a drink.
Have any of you guys (and gals) experienced this? What can I do to fix it?
Help! '>
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2006, 11:41:57 am » |
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Welcome back Kito, and yes.........this has happened to a lot of us so relax. This forum is to address these issues. If you have the small coin mech. I may be able to help. Remove the slug rejector and looking down the mech. to your left of the crank handle is a little cog that rachets against the handle assembly. It's purpose is to make sure the user pushes it to it's full throw. When the handle is returning you will hear it clicking against the teeth. You probably need more tension on that return spring. (the cog and spring are much more visible by looking under the mech.)
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Glen
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jasmine64
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« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2006, 07:27:00 pm » |
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Well, I was going to ask if it's spring loaded, but looks like Moomdawg answered the question.
Glad to have you back. Stop by more often.
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Marsha
Cav. CD 22 Choice Vend 168 - Use daily.
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Guest
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« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2006, 10:30:11 am » |
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Thanks guys. How do I put more pressure on the spring? Do I replace the spring? Or can I do something to it? Thanks.
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2006, 11:35:30 am » |
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Try cutting it a little shorter and re-bending your loop at the end as a hook
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Glen
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sodaworks
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« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2006, 10:30:51 pm » |
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Try adding a drop of penetrating oil on it as well. Then reach up into the cog and move it a few times. '>
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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90grad
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« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2006, 06:40:48 am » |
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Just a thought, but could the problem not be with the return spring on the crank but with the mechanism at the bottle stack? If this is binding for some reason, would it prevent the linkage from moving, which would hold the crank? A quick way to check would be to push down the crank when the door is open.
Sorry in advance if this has no relevance. What made me think of this was the crank on my Cavalier 51 returns slowly and I know the problem is with the ratchet mechanism in the cabinet. I just haven't torn it off to lube/replace bearings.
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Wayne
Mid-Atlantic Chapter
Cavalier 51 (1953) Cavalier Airline Cooler 7-Up Picnic Cooler Vendo 110 (1957) VMC 56 Bottle (1964) VMC 56 Can Westinghouse Master Water Bath Cooler Westinghouse Standard Ice Cooler Westinghouse WB-102 (1963)
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2006, 12:09:20 pm » |
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Well Wayne I had to rule out the bottle stack or door linkage when Kito described having to use Kung-fu methods on his machine to release his handle. '> Did you get my pkg?
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Glen
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90grad
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« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2006, 12:31:17 pm » |
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Glen, I haven't seen a package. I'll let you know when I do. Glad to see Kito is around again.
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Wayne
Mid-Atlantic Chapter
Cavalier 51 (1953) Cavalier Airline Cooler 7-Up Picnic Cooler Vendo 110 (1957) VMC 56 Bottle (1964) VMC 56 Can Westinghouse Master Water Bath Cooler Westinghouse Standard Ice Cooler Westinghouse WB-102 (1963)
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sodaworks
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« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2006, 06:28:48 pm » |
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Kito, If your still having problems try taking the coin mech. off and remove the slug rejector. Get you some solvent in a aresol can and spray the mech. really good. Actuate the mech. a few times and spray some more. Repeat this a few times and apply a couple of drops of lube to the actuating shaft. '>
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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Guest
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« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2006, 02:49:58 am » |
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Thanks guys, I will try all those methods. And thanks for the welcome, it's great to be back.
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Guest
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« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2006, 11:59:47 am » |
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O.k., so how dumb do I feel...
After putting up with a faulty crank and having to beat up my machine for many months, before I made any mechanical changes, I did something that I should have done long ago. For the heck of it I grabbed my can of greaseless lubricating spray and shot a few small squirts into the affected areas and guess what? It now cranks more smoothly and beautifully than it ever has!
That's all it took! Now it glides down and back up perfectly everytime! I am so happy!
But why wasn't I smart enough to try that long ago??? It's just that it felt like it was a mechanical problem or something broken rather than just too much friction. I'm a happy pack rat!!!
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sodaworks
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« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2006, 12:25:37 pm » |
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Kito, I'm glad that you no longer have to abuse your soda machine!! '>
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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BrianB
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« Reply #13 on: March 06, 2006, 03:39:35 pm » |
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Me too, that how IT ALL starts.....First it's the handle, then it's the coin door and before you know it, STUFF ON TOP OF THE MACHINE! '>
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Brian
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