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Author Topic: What is the best way to remove paint??  (Read 16070 times)
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TheGarbageHunter
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« on: January 19, 2006, 09:29:00 pm »

Thanks for all the warm welcomes, you guys have been a great help.

I am confused as to the best manner to clean up a machine prior to painting. I have read about many of the high-end restorers claiming that they only sandblast or beadblast their machines. But I have been told by many automotive painters that this is to harsh and will ruin the sheet metal. Should I use an electrical sander?? or Chemical stripper?? I was thinking of buying a small media blaster and using aluminum oxide since I was told sand is carcinogenic. Does anyone know what grade (fine/med/corse) is should use and at what pressure.

I am currently taking an autobody class and planning to paint my vendo 81 and Cava 72 in the near months. Trying to collect info prior to going to town on both machines.

All feedback appreciated. '<img'>
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Garbage Gold Hunter
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« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2006, 11:07:13 pm »

All restorations in my shop begin with sand/media blasting.  '<img'>
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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Pat Pixley
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« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2006, 11:25:09 pm »

I've gone the chemical way to get it off first then I go to the
 sand blaster to hit the bad spots. Plus the sand blaster
 works great in the Compressor compartment and around
  the doors edge, Then the Media cabinet for the smaller
  parts.
            '<img'>

                  Pat
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zadd
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« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2006, 07:55:32 am »

I use a little hand held SPEEDY BLASTER in the cabinet. The outside I used a 8 inch sander with 80 grit to strip it down to bare metal then did my repairs. If your machine is original and has not had a million paint jobs it should sand fairly easy, the original paint isn't very thick. Just my two cents '<img'>
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Zadd
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dprat1
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« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2006, 10:18:29 am »

Welcome,
This first timer used "Aircraft Remover", found at auto paint supply store. It is wicked stuff but worked great (be careful with it and read labels.) I then used a small sandblaster on the rusted areas and the hard to get areas. Then any body work, fill primer...etc.....

doug
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Eric
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« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2006, 01:49:10 pm »

I've had my coolers sandblasted... most of these older roundtops and coolers are so heavy
the metal can take it.... They were done by someone who knows about pressure and blasting.
the lids on coolers are so thin metal I use just a good paint stripper from a Local-Mart
and it comes right off.
Wanna see pictures when you get these done... Good Luck!(And Welcome to the Board by the way)

Eric
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Eric

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Jim
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« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2006, 07:33:46 pm »

Sand blasting is the way to go.
Just use fine sand (40F) and watch the pressure.
Also, do not keep blasting in one are too long as this will heat the metal and possibly begin to warp the panel. If you seek professional help here, be sure to ask questions as to the type of work they have conducted. You don't want to use a company/person that usually blasts buildings, bridges or other unrelated objects.
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My six cents,

Jim

Pat Pixley
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« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2006, 09:12:40 pm »

Jim's , Right you don't want some one who does bridge's,
 hit some of the better body shops in your area or
 if you know some one that restores old car's or old
 tractor's hit them up and ask question's or ask if you can watch them some time sand blasting  something.
 Pat   '<img'>




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sodaworks
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« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2006, 10:55:13 pm »

Every now and then I get a machine that was painted with Imron paint. This paint is hard to blast off. I use "Jasco" stripper when I run across Imron paint, then I sandblast.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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Creighton
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« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2006, 11:37:05 pm »

Picked up a can of the "Aircraft Remover". Serious stuff. First time I've ever seen "may cause blood damage" on a label. Early tests shows like it will solve a problem where somebody tried to cover up a factory 7-Up silkscreen with 5 coats of Krylon. Thanks for the tip!!
Creighton
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