What is the best way to remove paint??

[TheGarbageHunter]

Thanks for all the warm welcomes, you guys have been a great help.

I am confused as to the best manner to clean up a machine prior to painting. I have read about many of the high-end restorers claiming that they only sandblast or beadblast their machines. But I have been told by many automotive painters that this is to harsh and will ruin the sheet metal. Should I use an electrical sander?? or Chemical stripper?? I was thinking of buying a small media blaster and using aluminum oxide since I was told sand is carcinogenic. Does anyone know what grade (fine/med/corse) is should use and at what pressure.

I am currently taking an autobody class and planning to paint my vendo 81 and Cava 72 in the near months. Trying to collect info prior to going to town on both machines.

All feedback appreciated. '>

[sodaworks]

All restorations in my shop begin with sand/media blasting.  '>

[Pat Pixley]

I've gone the chemical way to get it off first then I go to the
 sand blaster to hit the bad spots. Plus the sand blaster
 works great in the Compressor compartment and around
  the doors edge, Then the Media cabinet for the smaller
  parts.
            '>

                  Pat

[zadd]

I use a little hand held SPEEDY BLASTER in the cabinet. The outside I used a 8 inch sander with 80 grit to strip it down to bare metal then did my repairs. If your machine is original and has not had a million paint jobs it should sand fairly easy, the original paint isn't very thick. Just my two cents '>

[dprat1]

Welcome,
This first timer used "Aircraft Remover", found at auto paint supply store. It is wicked stuff but worked great (be careful with it and read labels.) I then used a small sandblaster on the rusted areas and the hard to get areas. Then any body work, fill primer...etc.....

doug

[Eric]

I've had my coolers sandblasted... most of these older roundtops and coolers are so heavy
the metal can take it.... They were done by someone who knows about pressure and blasting.
the lids on coolers are so thin metal I use just a good paint stripper from a Local-Mart
and it comes right off.
Wanna see pictures when you get these done... Good Luck!(And Welcome to the Board by the way)

Eric

[Jim]

Sand blasting is the way to go.
Just use fine sand (40F) and watch the pressure.
Also, do not keep blasting in one are too long as this will heat the metal and possibly begin to warp the panel. If you seek professional help here, be sure to ask questions as to the type of work they have conducted. You don't want to use a company/person that usually blasts buildings, bridges or other unrelated objects.

[Pat Pixley]

Jim's , Right you don't want some one who does bridge's,
 hit some of the better body shops in your area or
 if you know some one that restores old car's or old
 tractor's hit them up and ask question's or ask if you can watch them some time sand blasting  something.
 Pat   '>

[sodaworks]

Every now and then I get a machine that was painted with Imron paint. This paint is hard to blast off. I use "Jasco" stripper when I run across Imron paint, then I sandblast.

[Creighton]

Picked up a can of the "Aircraft Remover". Serious stuff. First time I've ever seen "may cause blood damage" on a label. Early tests shows like it will solve a problem where somebody tried to cover up a factory 7-Up silkscreen with 5 coats of Krylon. Thanks for the tip!!
Creighton

[sodaworks]

I gotta see if the "aircraft remover" is still avail. in Ca. The land of enviromental issues! '>

[Creighton]

I found it at Kragen Auto Parts.
Creighton

[BrianB]

I get mine at an Auto Parts store, too. Here in Indiana they haven't fully embraced enviromental awareness!

I also have a 40 lb pressurized sandblaster and a small benchtop media blaster. They are the next best thing to sliced bread.

[MoonDawg]

I get the Aircraft stripper at my auto paint supply store.  It comes either in a can to be applied with a brush, or it is availavle in areosol spray cans.  The latter may cost more but is much easier to use.

[sodaworks]

Glen,
 Have you found any peticular brand that works the best?

[TheGarbageHunter]

Another question from the amature: What size of sandblaster are most of you using? 40,60,80lb pressure pod?? What pressure are you blasting with?? What media is being used
sand/metal/plastic??

[sodaworks]

I run a 100# blaster, but it all depends on your compressor size. Mine is 8 hp, 80 gallon tank and operates at 175#

[BrianB]

Right now I run a 40# pressurized blasting pot. I use a product called Black Beauty. I think it's a slag of some sort.

I use Glass Bead in my benchtop unit.

I couldn't afford to use plastic through a regular outdoor blaster. Just a 50# bucket costs over $150 and requires a the proper set-up.

[KreKol]

Wal-Mart sells Aircraft Stripper in spray cans in the automotive department.  Great stuff.

[sodaworks]

Thanks KreKol  

[BrianB]

I personally prefer the brush-on Aircraft Remover. To me, the spraycan is to expensive for the return. I have used both and have also found that it takes more passes with the spray than with the brush. You can get way more product on with the brush and if you wait the directed time on the label, it works great. With the spray I found myself having to make multiple passes.

If you plan on stripping the paint from an entire machine this way you definitely get your money's worth on the big can.

Some other tips: Make sure to have a large tarp or a huge piece of cardbord to put underneath your work. It gets really messy! Also, make sure to wear long pants and a long sleeve shirt and a pair of disposable dishwashing gloves. This stuff is super caustic.

Most importantly, EYE PROTECTION!! I can't stress this enough. I would really recommend the full coverage goggles that actually enclose your eyes, like the one's you used in chemistry class or biology. I've had some of this stuff fling off of the brush and catch me in the outside corner of my right eye (outside/under the safety glasses) and it's no fun!

[TheGarbageHunter]

All the info has been great, thanks.

If I go with the chemical strip method, does the remaining residue on the metal have to be nutrilized with another product?? Or what are the steps that should be taken, (before primer or paint) once all paint is removed with the chem stip??  '>

[MoonDawg]

Agree with Brian, it's messy stuff.  For an entire machine sandblasting is the way to go. I have a small sandblaster, and blasting media costs $35.00 a bucket, would take me 2 buckets and 2 days to blast a machine.
       If you look in the book under metal finishing for someone who does industrial sandblasting,  for $75.00 all work is done for you.

[BrianB]

Fresco,

Yes, you use water to neutralize the Aircraft Stripper. Just use a hose and make sure you get all surfaces/nooks and crannies.

If you don't plan on painting whatever your are stripping within a day or so, there are a few products on the market that will prevent flash rust from forming.
I use a product called "Metal Wash". It's made by Eastwood

It comes in a little can and you mix 5 teaspoons with 4 cups of hot water. Mix it up and then use a wash rag to wipe the machine down.

A little stinky, but it works great. Here in Indiana humidity is a killer and rust will form super-quick, so I really love this stuff in the damper months

[TheGarbageHunter]

Thanks BrianB, thats the info I needed.

 '>

[sodaworks]

It usually takes me about 2-3 hours on the average to completely sandblast a machine. I use 30 grit sand for blasting media. '>

[BrianB]

No prob! Let us know what you decide on and also how things go. If you need anymore help/info, let us know! So basically what I'm trying to say is.....Let us know!! '>