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Author Topic: Painting embossing  (Read 14663 times)
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zadd
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« Reply #10 on: January 13, 2006, 08:06:56 pm »

I wouldn't suggest using a heat gun to cure the paint .A heat gun gets the area to hot to fast in one area well over 200 or more degees,and may blister the area you tried to heat on fresh paint. '<img'>
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Zadd
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Kevin C
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« Reply #11 on: February 01, 2006, 10:45:56 am »

Hello

How do you paint the raise lettering?

Kevin
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« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2006, 07:16:04 pm »

I haven't done it yet but I think company's that hand paint strips on cars they use Little miniature paint rollers in different sizes.I would say that would work If I can find them? '<img'>
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Zadd
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« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2006, 09:20:17 pm »

I saved this post from colamachines.com a few months back. I haven't tried it yet, the westinghouse jr is nowhere near paint stage, and the poster signed in as guest, so I can't give him thanks,or boos:
Quote
Here you go, I ran across this forum accedently. I was heavy into restoration years ago and this was are little secret. Here is what I did with my machines with great success. I bought clear ordinary contact paper the stickey kind. Peeled it off and put it on the embossing hair dryer lightly, very lightly so it forms a little around edge. let sit for a second. Then take a DA sander with 80 grit. must be fresh. keep sander level and sand over the top. go slow......then throw some 180 grit and carefully smooth rough edges.then take some 1 shot with brush, paint it in. then while it's wet peel it off. and there you have it what a sign painter used to charge 75.00 for. practice and you will be surprised how good you will get. Good Luck


anyone have any thoughts? I would be concerned that peeling the contact paper off might mess the paint job.
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« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2006, 11:12:18 am »

That doesn't sound like to bad of an idea. I would think though the DA would tear up the edges of the contact paper ,and not make them crisp edges.As far as taking off the paper while it's still wet,I would think you would want to let it dry and then peel it off so you didn't mess up the paint? If you did it in basecoat/clearcoat you could let it dry and then peel the paper off and and touch up any bad spots and  then clear over the entire part.  '<img'>
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« Reply #15 on: February 18, 2006, 08:21:32 pm »

A roller is what they used... I have a book somewhere... that shows this... they had
thick cardboard stencils they laid over the letter then had a huge thick ink-roller look'n
thing they'd roll over the letters.... I have afriend in Springfield Missouri that does them
this way... He put little wheels on either side of the roller and made his own stencils
Does this with both machines and coolers They turn out great.
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« Reply #16 on: February 18, 2006, 09:52:55 pm »

That contact paper sounds like it would leave rough edges.  I use a small roller and I also use a flat piece of wood with cloth stretched very tight across it.  I then put paint on the cloth (usually use old t shirts) and then press down, always have to do touch up with a small brush.
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« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2006, 12:21:07 pm »

The contact paper sounds like an excellent idea if the edges will come out smooth. Maybe finish with 600 grit or 1000.
      I am going to try this real soon, where would a clear sticky contact paper be sold?
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« Reply #18 on: February 19, 2006, 02:58:45 pm »

Contact paper idea sounds great. I have been hand painting mine. What worked great for the edges for me was a q-tip dipped in some paint thinner. You can run it along the sides of the lettering and get a nice line. Maybe a combination of both.
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« Reply #19 on: February 19, 2006, 06:08:00 pm »

Quote (MoonDawg @ Feb. 19 2006,12:21)
I am going to try this real soon, where would a clear sticky contact paper be sold?

Monndawg,
I wouldthink Wlamart, Kmart or any craft store would carry it - check housewares
I remember as a kid my mom would use it to seal those soft cover books we always had in grade school
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