Painting embossing

[dprat1]

Greeting to all,
I picked up my C-51 from the painter last week. WOW..they did an excellent job. I think the extra time I spent on the prep really paid off. I called the guy that I wanted to paint the embossing. He is an experienced sign and custom painter that has done past work for the local coca-cola bottler here. He informed me that I will need to let the acrylic enamel (hardener was used) cure for at least 30 days before painting the embossing. He said that if it was done too soon the lettering paint could crack or bubble. He also said if decals were applied too soon that bubbles could form under them. I believe he knows what he is talking about but I have never read anything here reguarding that. Just want to see if the "wise ones" here concur?
Thanks,
Doug

[sodaworks]

I can't see more than a few days of cure time. 30 days is a long cure time. Is the paint still soft? check it my applying pressure in a spot on the rear of the machine, tap it with a the leading edge of your finger nail, apply pressure and see if it leaves a indentation. If there is a mark then it's not cured yet. This is how I test a fresh paint job for cure time. '>

[Jim]

Doug,

If your machine was painted with a two part acrylic enamel, you should be able to apply decals and have the embossing lettered around a week to ten days later. I usually let the door sit for a least a week before handing it over to a sign painter. The decals I apply last, usually after final assembly...

[dprat1]

Thanks Terry and Jim for the reply's. The machine was painted with the Centari single stage with hardener. My letter painter was saying that the acrylic enamal would give off "vapors" long after initial curring that could cause the top paint to crack over long term and possibly cause bubbles under any applied decals. Does not sound like there has been much problem or bad experience's with that here? Thinking I will wait a few weeks and have him proceed unless I learn otherwise.
Thanks,
Doug

[dprat1]

Hummm... just happen to think of something. My C-51 is a white top and the painter first painted the machine all red, then a week or so later, painted white top. If what my lettering painter says is true,,,I'm going to have a white top with more cracks than my ****. You figure that one out '>  Anyway, think I will stick with the two week wait.

doug

[zadd]

I paint professionally at a high end shop. And the paint still breaths for 30 days until the solvents escape completely. If you apply certain types of decals,not all .They may bubble or look ruff. I apply factory decals like a day later if the car has been fully baked in the booth. '>

[BrianB]

Thanks for the insight, Zadd! That's very helpfull to know since a lot of us use decals.

[dprat1]

Thanks Zadd for the professional advice here. It has now been over 60 days since the machine was painted. I'm taking it to my sign painter to have the lettering air brushed this weekend. Should be in good shape now and for decals. Guess he knows a thing or two also.
Thanks,
doug

[MoonDawg]

Quote (zadd @ Jan. 11 2006,4:02)

I apply factory decals like a day later if the car has been fully baked in the booth. '>

Thanks Zadd.  Now, how long would a person hold a heat gun on the planned decal areas, to simulate baking or how long does a car bake in a booth?

[zadd]

I bake a car at 160 degrees for about a half hour or more. I like to paint the machine red first in base coat/clear and then the next day sand it down with 800 grit ,tape off the area I need white,and have some cheap vinyl stickers made that say have a coke and put them in place to cover the red area,spray it white and then remove the stickers and then just clear the whole machine again. Then the next day sand down the two tone line with 1500 grit and where it says have a coke until I can't feel it any more and then buff and polish the whole machine.You won't be able to feel the lines like decals. I don't like to use enamel or single stage products. base coat /clear coat shines better and last forever ,and if you scratch the machine you can polish it out in the clear coat layer if its not to deep. '>

[zadd]

I wouldn't suggest using a heat gun to cure the paint .A heat gun gets the area to hot to fast in one area well over 200 or more degees,and may blister the area you tried to heat on fresh paint. '>

[Kevin C]

Hello

How do you paint the raise lettering?

Kevin

[zadd]

I haven't done it yet but I think company's that hand paint strips on cars they use Little miniature paint rollers in different sizes.I would say that would work If I can find them? '>

[Kilroy]

I saved this post from colamachines.com a few months back. I haven't tried it yet, the westinghouse jr is nowhere near paint stage, and the poster signed in as guest, so I can't give him thanks,or boos:

Quote

Here you go, I ran across this forum accedently. I was heavy into restoration years ago and this was are little secret. Here is what I did with my machines with great success. I bought clear ordinary contact paper the stickey kind. Peeled it off and put it on the embossing hair dryer lightly, very lightly so it forms a little around edge. let sit for a second. Then take a DA sander with 80 grit. must be fresh. keep sander level and sand over the top. go slow......then throw some 180 grit and carefully smooth rough edges.then take some 1 shot with brush, paint it in. then while it's wet peel it off. and there you have it what a sign painter used to charge 75.00 for. practice and you will be surprised how good you will get. Good Luck

anyone have any thoughts? I would be concerned that peeling the contact paper off might mess the paint job.

[zadd]

That doesn't sound like to bad of an idea. I would think though the DA would tear up the edges of the contact paper ,and not make them crisp edges.As far as taking off the paper while it's still wet,I would think you would want to let it dry and then peel it off so you didn't mess up the paint? If you did it in basecoat/clearcoat you could let it dry and then peel the paper off and and touch up any bad spots and  then clear over the entire part.  '>

[Eric]

A roller is what they used... I have a book somewhere... that shows this... they had
thick cardboard stencils they laid over the letter then had a huge thick ink-roller look'n
thing they'd roll over the letters.... I have afriend in Springfield Missouri that does them
this way... He put little wheels on either side of the roller and made his own stencils
Does this with both machines and coolers They turn out great.

[aspbear]

That contact paper sounds like it would leave rough edges.  I use a small roller and I also use a flat piece of wood with cloth stretched very tight across it.  I then put paint on the cloth (usually use old t shirts) and then press down, always have to do touch up with a small brush.

[MoonDawg]

The contact paper sounds like an excellent idea if the edges will come out smooth. Maybe finish with 600 grit or 1000.
      I am going to try this real soon, where would a clear sticky contact paper be sold?

[collecture]

Contact paper idea sounds great. I have been hand painting mine. What worked great for the edges for me was a q-tip dipped in some paint thinner. You can run it along the sides of the lettering and get a nice line. Maybe a combination of both.

[Kilroy]

Quote (MoonDawg @ Feb. 19 2006,12:21)

I am going to try this real soon, where would a clear sticky contact paper be sold?

Monndawg,
I wouldthink Wlamart, Kmart or any craft store would carry it - check housewares
I remember as a kid my mom would use it to seal those soft cover books we always had in grade school

[Eric]

Wal-Mart carries the contact paper it's used for shelf lining in the kitchen
they have it in clear.

[collecture]

I just saw an auction on eBay and one of the pages pictured showed what looks to be a stencil of sorts basically outlining the 'Drink Coca Cola'. It does not appear to get in between the letters. I imagine that it was about the height of the embossing. A roller was then rolled over the lettering. I took a closer look at some of my originals and this method seems to be consistent with their look. The factory would not have had hand letterers (too time consuming) and this method would allow them to knock out quite a few fairly fast. Take a look...