Refrigerator Advice

[mznb1u]

Got the fridge all emptied and found this when I removed the cover in the freezer.  Could this problem have been caused by the air vent being blocked?

Thanks Wayne, I will look into that part.  I appreciate all of the help!  Still cleaning while the coils defrost.  This thing might not work when I am done but it will certainly be a helluva lot cleaner.  Maybe I will cut the cord and sell it on CL!  

"Worked last time I used it but somehow the cord got cut so I can't test it!  Restored this is worth five maybe six grand!"

  Tim

[90grad]

Tim,

WOW!!! That's a lot of ice.  You have 1 of 3 possibilities...

1. Bad defrost module
2. Bad defrost timer
3. Bad damper control

I cannot believe your freezer was still cold, but with THAT much ice, it may not have been affected.  Well, this tells me you have something bad in the defrost system.  I was suspecting the damper control, but your defrost system still should have been working and that much ice shouldn't be there.

I would start by replacing the defrost module (I think I provided a link to that on another page of this thread).  If that doesn't work, move on down the list.  At the most, if you wind up replacing all three, you are only in for about $200.

Defrost modules are a common replacement.

[globalcompressors]

bad door seal as well...

[mznb1u]

Thanks Wayne and Eric!  The door seals are tight but my high school son often stands in front of the fridge with both doors open for extended time periods.  I may have also contributed to that problem because I recently replaced the ice dispenser motor mount and shelf.  The door was open and the freezer was running for long periods of time.

I guess I will start with the defrost module (pardon my ignorance but is that the actual heating element that goes through the coil); but, I can't get any parts tomorrow.  Also, if I pull all three parts are these something that an appliance parts dealer can test?  Looks like I will be stopping by Master Tech in Ann Arbor on Monday.

I was wondering if it would be worth just firing it up and seeing if things go back to normal?  Any chance I would get that lucky or will I just be defrosting the unit again when I start to replace part?

Thanks again guys!  And Thanks Wayne for the link to Sears--I am downloading all of the parts diagrams for the various systems.

  Tim

[Yarochrehc]

Tim, that is a lot of frost, and that is probably why the refrigerator side is warm.  That style of defrost heater doesn't burn out to often, not like the glass tube style. The problem could be the damper but I would start the refridge back up and let it run for a couple of hours (4 or 5) if it is already defrosted and try a few simple steps with the freezer coil cover on the inside back off.

1st, see if you can find the defrost timer and turn it slowly until you here a click and the evaporator fan and compressor shuts off, you should now be in the defrost mode. Heat should be coming for the defrost heater at the bottom of the coil, if not it's most likely it's the defrost determination switch has gone bad, it's usually a round metal disc that is clipped to and near top of the coil. Most defrost times are around 20 minutes so if you let the defrost cycle run for about 1/2 hour and the compressor and evap. fan come back on you now know that the timer is okay.

If you are confident at working with electricity you can jumper out the defrost determination switch to see if heat comes off the heater while in the defrost cycle.

Servall or Servall City ( same place) also has appliance parts and has sold to the public. They're in Detroit

[90grad]

I guess I will start with the defrost module (pardon my ignorance but is that the actual heating element that goes through the coil); but, I can't get any parts tomorrow.  Also, if I pull all three parts are these something that an appliance parts dealer can test?  Looks like I will be stopping by Master Tech in Ann Arbor on Monday.

I was wondering if it would be worth just firing it up and seeing if things go back to normal?  Any chance I would get that lucky or will I just be defrosting the unit again when I start to replace part?

Tim, if you fire it back up, it will work fine for a while.  But, eventually, you'll get back to the same problem.  You might be able to find some stuff online about testing them.  Yaro has some good advice on how to test the system. The "defrost determination switch" he mentions is the bimetal defrost.  Cross over everything to the parts diagram and then you'll know exactly what to get.  The defrost module (in my frig, it's called a bimetal defrost) in your system has the heater and bimetal in one unit.  Amazon sells them here:  http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-61006199-Defrost-Heater-Refrigerator/dp/B0053Y2YUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332159926&sr=8-1

If you need the defrost control (a little computer board), Amazon also sells them.  Here's the link: http://www.amazon.com/Maytag-Refrigerator-Adaptive-Defrost-61005988/dp/B002B8KEUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332160183&sr=8-1

[mznb1u]

Thanks Bob and Wayne.  Being that the defrost determination switch appears to be integrated into the heater, I will try to locate the timer and try what Bob has recommended.  I am not too confident with wiring and electricity so I don't think I will be jumping any wires or you guys might be recommending a house builder for me!

Stay tuned!

  Tim

[mznb1u]

Plugged it in and it is cooling great as expected. 

If I am reading the wiring diagram correctly, it appears that the defrost timer may be incorporated into a unit called the adaptive defrost assembly.  It appears to be a plug and play part.  To the experts, can you tell me if I am reading this correctly?

Thanks again guys!

  Tim

[90grad]

Tim,

Yep, that's the controller for the defrost cycle.  It tells the heater to kick on.  It should be plug and play.  

Amazon sells them for 1/2 of what Sears does.

Keep us posted.

[mznb1u]

Thanks Wayne!  Plugged it back in and it is cooling just fine.  I am going to pull the defrost heater/determination switch and the adaptive defrost units and see if Service Tech can test them for me.  If not, I will just replace them both.  Looks like it will cost me about $125 or thereabout for both parts.  Much cheaper than a new fridge!
  Tim