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Author Topic: Current Chrome Plating Prices  (Read 23331 times)
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Kilroy
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« Reply #20 on: May 11, 2011, 12:01:06 pm »

Marvin,
I can think of a couple of reasons.
1 - the fees are crazy. Yes you can shop around, but for a retailer that doesn't have the volume of a Walmart or Target,  the cut sent to  the bank  can make it not worth it.

2- more credit cards are offering  buyer insurance, so after the chorme is sent, the buyer  files a complaint with MasterCard over poor work, the funds are frozen  pending investigation,  if the funds are returned to the buyer, the chrome shop is out the money.  Heck, Paypal is a gboon  for scammers, file a claim, get your money returned,  don't return the mercghandise ( no I don't do that, or suggest any one steal.
Good luck tryying to call your bank and tell them to return the funds from a check written because you weren't happy with  service provided.


The opinions expressed are mine, and not necassarily the way things are.
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Creighton
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« Reply #21 on: May 11, 2011, 05:14:44 pm »

I'll make this short to not highjack the thread. Taking credit cards cuts profits. We use Costco, 3 percent if swiped, 5 percent if entered with CVCC. 7 percent otherwise. Also charged each time you rerun a declined card. AMEX and Discover are higher. The swipe machine is $500. I have to take cards to stay in biz.
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Ken R
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« Reply #22 on: August 08, 2011, 10:24:42 pm »

Hi All,
   Just have a couple of questions.  I am new to collecting soda machines and have always loved bringing the old back to life, whether restored or just refurbished.  I've usually only worked on cars as far as bodywork and painting, but figure it's about the same.  With these machines though, there are many small mechanical parts made of many different metals.  How does one know what to chrome, zinc, powdercoat, etc.??  Also, what exactly is zinc plating?  What does it look like I mean?  The VMC-149 I am currently working on has the crank handle and bottle chute/bezel that looks like a lead color, but the parts machine I got has a chrome handle and bottle chute/bezel.  Which one is older?
   Also, do you guys all live near one another or something?  Haha, seems like you guys all visit one another.  Just curious as I'd love to see some of the work you've done.  I enjoy reading and learning from you all!  Thanks.

Ken
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BrianS
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« Reply #23 on: August 08, 2011, 11:58:59 pm »

Ken,
From one newbie to another, there are a lot of choices you can make and some time using the search engine on this site will give you some insight.  Some of it will depend on whether you are looking to refurbish or restore.  I am doing my first machines and it is going pretty slow as i try to research what I want to do step by step.  In general, internal moving parts (think bottle stack components) I am getting zinc plated.  Internal static parts (shelves and internal tub) I am getting powder coated.  External metal gets chromed unless it is already stainless steel then it just gets polished.  Of course there are other options too.  Some have used hammertone on hte internal parts and have had good luck.  Others will chime in, but do some searching and go with what fits your desired end result.  Part of the process will depend on what services are available in your area.  The hardest thing for me to find was a zinc plater.  None in my immediate area.  Do your research and you can always go to Hobby Lobby and pick up a roll of stickyback vinyl simulated woodgrain.  Its a very popular look among many here on hte board.  biggrin   On a side note, I have personally never met a single member of the board, but look forward to the day I get the opportunity to attend an event.  They are without a doubt the best group of individuals I have never met.
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Brian

Vendo 56 - restored
Vendo 81 - in progress
Vendo 39 - in the rough
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1959 Williams Pinch Hitter
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« Reply #24 on: August 09, 2011, 11:09:24 am »

Ken,
Zinc plated metal have (usually) that yellowish hue to it, but it can be done in clear as well as a few other colors. If you look at your coin mech, you'll see a lot of yellow zinced pieces. The metal must be magnetic to be zinc plated. Pot metal and aluminum will get eaten up in the acid baths used to clean the metal, so be careful what you might send in to get zinc plated. Pot metal and aluminum can be annodized though.
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
Ken R
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« Reply #25 on: August 09, 2011, 05:21:20 pm »

I always enjoy talking with you guys as it seems we all share a same interest!!  I understand what you mean now about the zinc stuff.  Reference the crank handle on the 149 I'm working on then, it looks like a lead color, is that something that was originially that color or should it be polished, chromed, etc..Huh?  I thought it was intersting that the parts machine I got, the handled and bottle chute were originally chromed, but I see no sign of chrome on the one I have.  Thoughts??
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Tom


« Reply #26 on: August 09, 2011, 05:48:20 pm »

All of the VMC crank handles that I have seen were chromed. They did not do high quality chroming back then, so I have seen lots of pieces that have no trace of chrome on them. As with any crank handle, be sure to remove the guts (Clutch Pawl, etc.) before sending in to be chromed. In addition, you will also need to remove that knob on the VMC handle.
Good Luck!
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
Ken R
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« Reply #27 on: August 09, 2011, 06:10:01 pm »

What other parts should be chromed on that particular machine?  From the looks of it, I'm guessing that was it?
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Ken R
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« Reply #28 on: August 09, 2011, 06:21:00 pm »

Am doing some searching on folks around Austin that do chrome plating, is there anything in particular that I should look for in order to find a reputable business?  Quals, certifications, or anything of that sort?  Thanks.

Ken
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Kilroy
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« Reply #29 on: August 09, 2011, 07:40:59 pm »

ask to see their work,  search on their name,  hot rod clubs. radio collectors, jukebox people, etc all use chromers, if they suck, you will find  it on the 'net.
If they don't want to give referrals, I'd be wary.
« Last Edit: August 10, 2011, 06:26:12 am by Kilroy » Logged

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