So what would you do?

[Aahgo]

Here is a picture of the compressor (I hope).  Is this the valve Johnie G was talking about?  What is the method to check the charge?

[johnieG]

Yes, That is a aftermarket "saddle" valve on the larger copper line ( low-side/suction line) this is where you'd attach your gauge sets blue-hose ( for the low side gauge)... if you follow the suction line around to the back side of the compressor you should find the original ( factory) service valve also.  Someone probably installed this one because it was too much "work" to pull the deck out & use the factory valve,  either they were just plain lazy, or it was damaged in some way, or they had no idea what they were looking at.

[Aahgo]

Ok, thanks.  Learning more all the time.

when looking at potential donor machines...will a compressor from a Lacrosse 64 be fit into and be sufficient for a Lacrosse 81?

[Pat Pixley]

Great picture there Josh I can really see the the compressor from that angle.          

Josh, I would like to apologize to you, sorry about being short with you.

Pat

[loman4ec]

No Problem pat. I was not suggesting it was the best option. I was just saying if he needed a cheap way to make it work that can be an option. He mentioned that he didn't want to spend a lot on the machine and parts are not easy to find for the machine. The Dixie Narco system that was put into the V56 was actually very close to the same system it originally came with. If I remember right even the mounting holes were the same.

[johnieG]

Ok, thanks.  Learning more all the time.

when looking at potential donor machines...will a compressor from a Lacrosse 64 be fit into and be sufficient for a Lacrosse 81?

It would probably physically fit OK, but it may have a smaller sized compressor installed onto it's deck, (1/4HP vs 1/3HP), [which would still cool the soda's but it would take longer to pull the cabinet down to temperature]

PS...I've also noticed that the after market saddle valve that's pictured appears to be an earlier Robin-Air brand valve with it's tell-tale red lucite thumb wheel that's installed with just two clamping bolts.

This style of valve is very prone to leaking as it will easily twist about the suction line & dislodge its seal,if it's not already dry-rotted, (the seal that is)  considering you've pulled & reinstalled the system, it's a likely culprit if you're low on refrigerant. inspect it very closely, & give it a gentle tweak & see if there's any give to it's clamping about the suction line.

I'd warm the compressor system up by starting the machine & temporarily block the condenser fan blade from spinning with a rag stuffed about it for only about 5 minutes, (this will raise the system pressure above normal, but it should do no harm) then unplug the machine &  remove the rag, now use some bubble detection solution all around the valve & see if it foams, then test all of the visible joints & any kinks that may have occurred when the system was pulled & reinstall ( especially any spots were you may have "adjusted" or straightened the tubing.

Also note that if there is sufficient gas left in the system, the condensers coils will get very warm to hot quickly, so watch you hands, wear gloves & eye protection & remember not to run the system with the fan blocked for no more than five minutes Tops!

[Aahgo]

Hey Johnie G;

Thanks for your advice.  I've pulled the deck back out and did as you advised.  Blocked the C-fan and ran for 5 min.  Sprayed a leak detector on all the joints - no obvious leaks.  I did notice a couple (three) things.
1) there is a pretty good kink on one of the lines, it was there originally, but I might have made it worse when I re-installed it into the unit.  Don't suppose there is any way to unkink a line?
2) there is some frosting on the line coming out of the bottom of the evaporator.
3) the fan on the compressor seems to be blowing back towards the compressor as opposed to away from the compressor and through the heat exchanger.  That don't seem right to me.  I didn't remove the fan blades when I cleaned it but I guess my predecessor could have  (although judging by the layer of crud on everything it would have been a long time ago).  Which way is correct?

Thanks, Glenn.

[johnieG]

the compressor fan should always draw (pull) air over (through) the condenser's coils first then past the fan , and lastly over the compressor itself, it should never push air from the fans side backwards through the condenser..

[Aahgo]

Ok, good to know.   Thanks for the clarification.

What about the kinked line?  Is this a show stopper or can something be done with it?

Thanks,
Glenn.

[johnieG]

Unless it's severely bent/kinked to the point of pinching off the tubing's inside diameter by more than 2/3'ds , I'd leave it be, because if you attempt to straighten it, ( especially if it's been bent at that point in the past) you run the possibility of fracturing the line due to "work-hardening" the copper...  while it is possibly to re-anneal the tube to rework the kink, it's not recommended to heat the tubing while there is a high pressure in the system, ( the line could burst open)  I'm assuming you've kinked the larger suction line...

here's an interesting & useful article on annealing copper ( making it soft again so it can be re-worked/formed)...a Mapp-gas torch works just as well if you don't have an oxy/acetylene set

http://www.ehow.com/how_5796817_anneal-copper-tubing.html