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Author Topic: Sand-thru lettering advice needed  (Read 7860 times)
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Jim
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« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2006, 11:45:21 am »

I'm still in favor of finding a GOOD sign letter painter do the job! But that's me...

I noticed the recent increase in "spray bomb" painting questions too!
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Bob K
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« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2006, 01:22:08 pm »

Relax, guys!   This is a beat up Acton cooler that I am going to keep in the back of my Honda Element for storage (tools, jumper cables, etc.).  I don't want to spend the money on hand lettering this thing for what I'm using it for.  

Of course spray cans are not acceptable in the restoration process!  Give me some credit, eh?  ':<img:'>

Bob
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« Reply #12 on: July 15, 2006, 10:36:58 pm »

Glen - I'm a rookie painter so bear with me...  I've only used single stage paints and they always needed a hardner mixed.  

So your process is to put down the undercoat color with a single stage paint with hardner (is this standard?). Then put the cover coat color on top.  Does this coat have hardner in it also? Then you put solvent on the letters to expose the undercoat color.  How do you apply the solvent (brush, rag, ??)? What solvent: mineral spirits, turpentine or something stronger? Assume this is a multiple step process?  then when it's all done you clear coat the entire machine.
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Thanks, Bryan
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« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2006, 12:38:14 pm »

     Single stage paint is simply paint mixed with hardner, sprayed on and left to dry.  This process will work fine for the white undercoat.
      Two stage paint works slightly differently. The paint sprays on dull and dry and will NEVER cure until the clearcoat / hardner is sprayed over it. This gives you time after spraying on the red, to wipe off the letters. I use "prep-sol" or " pre-cleano" as a solvent. It will melt the red nicely.  so spray some on a paper towel and absorb the paint using a circular motion on each letter. If you make a mistake, just spray on some more red where necessary and repeat.
       When each letter is clean with nice sharp edges it's time to spray the entire cooler with a shiny clearcoat.  By the way, these letters will never buff off.




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Glen
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« Reply #14 on: July 16, 2006, 01:16:35 pm »

Glen, Could you clarify the process for me. Is it better to use single stage or two stage for the actual lettering? I was thinking that you used two stage paint for the whole process. Shooting the embossed lettering with color and clear coat. I'm getting ready to paint a C72 and was going to try your method on the lettering, Guys, I've seen Glens machines and his results are awesome!! '<img'>
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #15 on: July 16, 2006, 03:14:00 pm »

Quote (sodaworks @ July 16 2006,11:16)
I was thinking that you used two stage paint for the whole process. Shooting the embossed lettering with color and clear coat.

Yes, I use 2 stage on the white letters, but it really doesn't matter as long as it is cured well before step # 2.
       After white is complete, DO NOT spray primer before shooting red.  The reason is when you rub the red paint off,  there will be a shadow of your primer around the perimiter of each letter separating the red and white.  
        Also, DO NOT color-sand and buff the letters prior to step #2, it's best to wait and do the whole cooler after paint work is all complete.
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Glen
Bob K
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« Reply #16 on: July 16, 2006, 03:43:27 pm »

That's a great system, Glen.  I'll bet it takes a bit of practice to wipe off the smaller letters for sharp results.
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2006, 07:57:33 pm »

Smaller letters are the easiest. Wipe your cloth across the top of them all at once!
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Glen
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« Reply #18 on: July 17, 2006, 10:52:26 am »

Thanks Glen.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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