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MoonDawg
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« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2006, 12:48:21 pm » |
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If you use 2 stage paint you don't need sandpaper. Just spray the red, expose the white letters with solvent then spray the whole cooler with clear coat.
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Glen
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davethebirdman
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« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2006, 02:08:06 am » |
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Excuse my ignorance but what is Spray Bombing??
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cormy
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« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2006, 08:40:47 am » |
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I've read about this method to exposed the lettering underneath, sounds almost impossible to do without sanding too much in some areas and having it look good. The solvent method sounds a bit more realistic but I think you need a steady hand and lots of practice. I've always taken my "good stuff" to a sign painter for painting letters and such, on my "not so good stuff " I attempt.. with mediocre results. Experience is the key here. If you do decide to do the sand method let us know how it came out.
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cmc
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sodaworks
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« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2006, 11:05:31 am » |
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I've seen Glen's work on this process and he does an awesome job. If your going to use a spray bomb I would try 1500 grit wet to start with. '>
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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BryanH
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« Reply #8 on: July 14, 2006, 11:22:52 pm » |
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Quote (MoonDawg @ July 13 2006,11:48) | If you use 2 stage paint you don't need sandpaper. Just spray the red, expose the white letters with solvent then spray the whole cooler with clear coat. |
Glen - how do you keep the solvent from going through to the white layer?
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #9 on: July 15, 2006, 10:23:44 am » |
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Quote (BryanH @ July 14 2006,9:22) | how do you keep the solvent from going through to the white layer? | A: If the white paint has had hardener mixed in or sprayed over it, and has had enough time to cure, solvent won't hurt it at all.
B: If the white is soft spraycan paint.........it won't stand a chance against solvent OR sandpaper.
C: To the group....... has the spraycan become an acceptable form of restoration here at SMC ? '>
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Glen
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Jim
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« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2006, 11:45:21 am » |
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I'm still in favor of finding a GOOD sign letter painter do the job! But that's me...
I noticed the recent increase in "spray bomb" painting questions too!
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My six cents, Jim
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BryanH
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« Reply #12 on: July 15, 2006, 10:36:58 pm » |
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Glen - I'm a rookie painter so bear with me... I've only used single stage paints and they always needed a hardner mixed.
So your process is to put down the undercoat color with a single stage paint with hardner (is this standard?). Then put the cover coat color on top. Does this coat have hardner in it also? Then you put solvent on the letters to expose the undercoat color. How do you apply the solvent (brush, rag, ??)? What solvent: mineral spirits, turpentine or something stronger? Assume this is a multiple step process? then when it's all done you clear coat the entire machine.
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2006, 12:38:14 pm » |
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Single stage paint is simply paint mixed with hardner, sprayed on and left to dry. This process will work fine for the white undercoat. Two stage paint works slightly differently. The paint sprays on dull and dry and will NEVER cure until the clearcoat / hardner is sprayed over it. This gives you time after spraying on the red, to wipe off the letters. I use "prep-sol" or " pre-cleano" as a solvent. It will melt the red nicely. so spray some on a paper towel and absorb the paint using a circular motion on each letter. If you make a mistake, just spray on some more red where necessary and repeat. When each letter is clean with nice sharp edges it's time to spray the entire cooler with a shiny clearcoat. By the way, these letters will never buff off.
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Glen
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sodaworks
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« Reply #14 on: July 16, 2006, 01:16:35 pm » |
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Glen, Could you clarify the process for me. Is it better to use single stage or two stage for the actual lettering? I was thinking that you used two stage paint for the whole process. Shooting the embossed lettering with color and clear coat. I'm getting ready to paint a C72 and was going to try your method on the lettering, Guys, I've seen Glens machines and his results are awesome!! '>
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #15 on: July 16, 2006, 03:14:00 pm » |
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Quote (sodaworks @ July 16 2006,11:16) | I was thinking that you used two stage paint for the whole process. Shooting the embossed lettering with color and clear coat. | Yes, I use 2 stage on the white letters, but it really doesn't matter as long as it is cured well before step # 2. After white is complete, DO NOT spray primer before shooting red. The reason is when you rub the red paint off, there will be a shadow of your primer around the perimiter of each letter separating the red and white. Also, DO NOT color-sand and buff the letters prior to step #2, it's best to wait and do the whole cooler after paint work is all complete.
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Glen
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Bob K
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« Reply #16 on: July 16, 2006, 03:43:27 pm » |
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That's a great system, Glen. I'll bet it takes a bit of practice to wipe off the smaller letters for sharp results.
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2006, 07:57:33 pm » |
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Smaller letters are the easiest. Wipe your cloth across the top of them all at once!
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Glen
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sodaworks
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« Reply #18 on: July 17, 2006, 10:52:26 am » |
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Thanks Glen.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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