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Author Topic: Shelf Brackets & Plugs - 6 case  (Read 7401 times)
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fabes
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« on: September 29, 2011, 04:25:26 pm »

Hey guys, I took my liner out today and obviously need some work done to it.

I had a question about the shelf holders AND plug looking things (don't know what they're called). The shelf holders look like a phillips screwdriver will take them out, but they aren't giving an inch!

How do you take both of them out? and if you do, do you need to replace them or can you reuse them?
« Last Edit: October 18, 2011, 08:32:40 am by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
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« Reply #1 on: September 29, 2011, 05:16:23 pm »

        For simplicity, why not leave them alone and work around them?
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Glen
fabes
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« Reply #2 on: September 29, 2011, 05:20:41 pm »

Glen,
Would you recommend it? My liner looks like this.......





I'm getting a new liner bottom.

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-Pete
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This is fine...everythings going to be OK....


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« Reply #3 on: September 29, 2011, 06:27:04 pm »

Beware! they may be left-hand threaded!!!  try to turn the clockwise to loosen them...
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« Reply #4 on: September 29, 2011, 06:28:39 pm »

Pete,
If the liner has been removed, you should be able to vise-grip each screw from the thread side, clamp on and twist to break them free, then use a Phillips screwdriver from inside the liner to finish removal...
As far as the circular pins, I cannot tell how they are installed... I close-up photo of the back of one of the pins may lead to a solution OR at least how they're installed...
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Tom


« Reply #5 on: September 29, 2011, 07:38:13 pm »

I had a question about the shelf holders AND plug looking things (don't know what they're called). The shelf holders look like a phillips screwdriver will take them out, but they aren't giving an inch! How do you take both of them out? and if you do, do you need to replace them or can you reuse them?


The manual refers to everything
The Shelf Brackets (20 Qty.) are secured by Phillips Truss Head screws (40 Qty.)
The "Plug Things" are referenced as two pieces - Shelf Support (20 Qty)and Shelf Support Stud (20 Qty) - probably stud rivets. Can you supply a close-up pic of the backside of the stud?

An Impact Screwdriver has proved useful to me in removing difficult screws. Just make sure you apply sufficient pressure so as not to strip the screw head!
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« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2011, 08:15:51 pm »

Quote
An Impact Screwdriver has proved useful to me in removing difficult screws. Just make sure you apply sufficient pressure so as not to strip the screw head!
Just be careful not to dent the liner as you impact the screws!
I would attempt vise-gripping the threaded side of the screw and turn clock-wise to loosen...
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« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2011, 08:39:02 pm »

Just be careful not to dent the liner as you impact the screws!
I would attempt vise-gripping the threaded side of the screw and turn clock-wise to loosen...


This is the perfect impact tool for that.. I bought one and absolutely love this tool..

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=PS40-2A
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« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2011, 10:02:52 pm »

 I had some trouble with some of the screws on my shelf brackets as well.  I found Jim's trick - turning the tread side of the screw with a vicegrips and using a screw driver at the same time to be very effective.  Just don't squeeze the vice grips so tight that you damage the threads.  Found that screws I could not move at all with just a screw driver turned very easy when twisting on both ends. 
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« Reply #9 on: September 30, 2011, 09:01:01 am »

I have not worked on a 110 for some time, now, but personally I don't think they will interfere with you putting in that new bottom pan.. and if your giong to powder coat the whole tub, I'd just powder with them in?
plus if you get them out, you may have more trouble getting them back in, and pretty sure they are not reproduced.
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fabes
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« Reply #10 on: September 30, 2011, 04:10:58 pm »

Signguy,
Are you suggesting that I sand the liner, while keeping those parts in, then powder coating the liner with the parts still in? Just making sure, because that sounds like a good idea.

I'll post a pic of the backs of both of these parts in a little bit...
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-Pete
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« Reply #11 on: October 03, 2011, 09:38:33 am »

We'll I wouldn't be sanding galvanized.. one it will wear your arm off before you done... sandblasting will work but keep it moving as it will warp the metal.

what I do to remove the galvanizing is soak it in a mixture of Muratic acid and water.. strong stuff, but faster and easier than the other two.  Aluminum Brighter works to to remove it..

if you haven't worked with it before, go slow and wear protective clothing, do it outside and don't breath it in.. other than all that .. it works great! gives a nice surface to powder coat.

if you don't remove the galvanizing, the baking process will cause it to outgas and you'l get small bubbles... talk to your powder coater and he may have some suggestiosn as well..

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« Reply #12 on: October 03, 2011, 10:20:07 am »

I believe the 6-case Vertical machines originally had a painted liner - like a flat grey. May be galvanized under the paint though.
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
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