Wanted Kelvinator 180 Lid

[loman4ec]

RC Kid says he has a decent cooler. I don't want to cut up a good cooler. Id rather wait for a rusted out cooler. I won't touch this machine for a while anyway.

[Chedki]

loman4ec,

I have a Kelvinator 180 RC lid in great shape. Are you still interested in it or have you decided to use the embossed portion from a Royal Crown Cola picnic cooler? Let me know if you want me to post a picture of it. 

[loman4ec]

I am very interested in the lid. Could you post a pic and give the dimensions. What do you want for it? I think it may be the best route since it will be thicker steal and I think the size may be better.

[Chedki]

Measures at 22 inches wide and 11 1/2 inches high. All the lettering is embossed, including the "REG. U.S. PAT. OFF."

[loman4ec]

Thanks Chedki. i will know the size of the area tomorrow and I will let you know. i think it is going to be too big. Also to the members that are more experienced in welding is there enough metal on the bottom to weld it in place without ruining the embossed letters?

[loman4ec]

Yes that is way too big. I thought they were much smaller than that. Looks like I will have to butcher a picnic cooler.

[loman4ec]

After thinking about this I am leaning toward the vinyl stacking method. Has anyone tried anything similar to this? It makes a lot of since but I think making the edges look right would be rally difficult. Would each piece have to be slightly smaller? Obviously I have a lot of time to contemplate this. i really like this machine. I think the transition machines have a lot of character and they are more scarce than both the round top and square top machines. what are your opinions? 

[MoonDawg]

       A continuous weld will warp the metal, no matter how slow you go.
I've found that spot welding and filling.......is the best method.

       I have seen vinyl letters layered and clearcoated,they looked like
real embossing.  I believe they were cut from some extra thick material
and it was the clearcoat that rounded them at the top and bottom.   
 
       You could get a sign shop to make some letters and practice on a piece
of metal with some brush-on resin, then keep us posted. 
   

[GreginNM]

Josh ~ I think there would be some tapering involved, but not necessarily every layer.  You would have to study some other embossed letters to see how they look.  The good thing is, like you said, you have plenty of time to think about this before doing anything.  That way, you can't rush into something and then later wish you had done things another way.

As much as I like the yellow machines, I honestly like your transitional machine just the way it sits in its original graphics.  I've never seen a transitional machine in person, so I only have the pictures you guys have posted as a reference.  There is something to be said about that late 50s/early 60s red and white diamond graphic RC used and the way the machine is painted.  Yes, it would be even nicer had they embossed them!  Bottom line...you have to do what will make you happy with the machine.  In all things I collect, I keep in mind the scarcity of an item before I go about modifying it from original.  Keep us posted on what you decide!

[SIGNGUY]

Like I said earlier, I think the vinyl stacking would be the most cost effective and possible eaiser wasy to go? and like Glen said.. .the clear will help round it out, and hide any edges you would have ... aslo there is different thicknesses of vinyl too. so make sure to use the thicker stuff and you would probably only need 3-5 layers to give a nice effect...

I might just try this sometime as i have access to a vinyl machine and just put it on a piece of metal to see how it turns out?

I'll report back on that.

John