vendo 110 rewiring

[Larry]

Hello,

I have a Vendo 110 that I need to rewire before I plug it in.  My first snag is that I can not open the Nu Block (terminal block).  I tried to pry the back off, but it isn't budging.  I don't want to break it so I need help from the panel of experts!!

I also would like to change the wires for the light.  I am assuming that all I have to do is remove the screws around the galvenized panel and remove the metal block at the bottom left of the door.  This piece turns when the crank handle is turned.  What other surprises are there?  Should I get a new light fixture or keep the old one?

Thanks,

Larry

[MoonDawg]

       You can use a large drill bit to cut the head off that long rivet holding the
junction box together, then later just use a machine screw and nut to replace it.
        Now replacing the wires in your compressor area is a always a good idea, since
they have constantly been exposed to both heat and cold for many years and some
are pretty brittle.
        But replacing the wires to the light inside the door on a 110 seems totally unnecessary
since they have been insulated inside that door all these years. They are probably as soft and flexible and relialbe as they were when new.

[Larry]

Good point on the insulated cabnet wiring, but my light wire is dry rotted up to the door.  I figured that I might as well go all the way up.  I'm just worried that I might run into a problem with a socket, or ballast.  I'm assuming there should be a ballast in the door??

Thanks for the tip on the rivet.  I wasn't sure what they used to hold it all together.  I was hoping that it just snapped together, but that would be to easy.

Oddly enough, the compressor and condenser wires are the most supple.  I will still change them out, but I believe that the condenser and evaporator motors would not have any outside terminals and that the wires would be in the motor with internal connections.

Thanks for the tips. 

Larry

[Pat Pixley]

I was looking at the photo's of your wiring harnes ,some of the wire in you photos
looked brittle and your ground looked like it had a bare spot .
 You may want to consider buying a new one from Steve Jebb
or Steve Ebner  and the bottom does open .
  For $40 for the part i would want to be safe and not lose a machine to some
wire that where bad.

Just my opinion

[collecture]

I've kept the original ballast on machines that I will be keeping original, but it is a pain to get to them. If restoring, replace the whole thing and rest easy.

[Larry]

Yes, the wires are brittle and exposed, that's why I'm going to rewire it.  The only wires that don't have anything exposed is the condenser and compressor.  I will change them out as well. 

I bought the 110 just to have the nicest garage machine on the block.  O.K. it'll probably be the only one on the block.

I was hoping to pop the piece apart, but I think I'll just use a standard terminal block or wire nuts.  I would like to keep it original, but it's only a garage piece, not a show piece.

[SIGNGUY]

Larry,
once you figure out the wiring, you could do what I've done in the past before i started buying new terminal blocks for my machines...
Just figure out the wires, how they run and are connected, run everthing to an electrical box that you can mount down near the compressor. run all your wires into it, wire nut them , Electrical tape for safety and put a box cover on and walla... looks nice without having to spend more than an electrical box, cover and wirenuts...and new wire.
Call with questions.

[MoonDawg]

        If you pull the compressor deck forward, you can mount the new junction terminals
in the rear for much cleaner looking wiring.
        I prefer a terminal strip with the snap-on plastic cover.

[Larry]

I still haven't had a chance to work on it yet.  I am almost finished with my kitchen/backporch restoration.  Soon it will be time for the machines!! 

I found an ad for the 1950's Nu Block 3, that's the little black booger that doesn't want to come apart.  I'll post that tonight for a kick. 

I appreciate all your suggestions.  I am considering a terminal block over the Nu Block.  After seeing the ad with an open inside picture of the wiring components, I can only assume that they would be brittle and not worth trying to fix.

[loman4ec]

I usually make my own as well but I have mostly worked on square tops. Still I don't think that making your own wiring harness as long as it looks good would ever effect the value of the machine.

[Larry]

Here's an ad from 1955 for the Nu Block 3.  That's the piece I want to take apart.  After seeing the ad, I feel compelled to at least try to take it apart. 

[SIGNGUY]

Just thought I'd show how it looks when done, Although it doesnt show the insides, which is not too hard to figure out what goes where... but when all put together it doesnt' look out of place I don't think... and I've even painted the box black too in the past to blend it in better. just a thought.

[Larry]

Any of the choices so far have all been good and would work fine.  I believe that I will go with the covered terminal block or the Euro block, from Mcmaster Carr.  However, I am still going to take apart the Nu Block 3, just for my own curiosity, and look at a piece of coin op history in the face......then throw it out.