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Author Topic: Robotron:2084  (Read 20693 times)
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glassbottlesrule
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« Reply #20 on: September 08, 2007, 10:17:01 pm »

Awesome,  play a couple games for me.  Robotron is one of my favorites and I haven't played on in a couple years.
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Malinut
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« Reply #21 on: September 08, 2007, 11:42:48 pm »

Congrats on the Robotron, I agree that its a really cool game...

Frank
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bubba
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« Reply #22 on: September 09, 2007, 11:12:13 am »

Well, no good deed goes unpunished. I was cleaning up the machine, and putting the finishing touches on the wiring, and to make a long story short, I let the smoke out of the circuit board for the monitor. Still not sure exactly why, but it has something to do with the lights on the cabinet. I have a monitor in my Bad Dudes game that is in good shape, and I am in the process of swapping it out now. I discharged both monitors using the screwdriver and ground wire method, but neither one popped or made any noise at all. I felt like I was dealing with a fuse that didn't light a firework. Anyway, I got the new monitor and board mounted in the chasis, and I noticed on the new monitor a tag that says isolation transformer must be used. The power supply I installed is a switching power supply. Do I still need to use an isolation transformer? Can I hook up my cabinet light? I don't want to blow another monitor....

The monitor that I took out is a WGK4625, and the new one going in is a WGK7062.
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Ken

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bubba
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« Reply #23 on: September 09, 2007, 12:43:46 pm »

One more thing... I did fire up the machine, and the monitor comes on. The display is mirrored.. The new monitor was connected to -H & -V sync in the old game I removed it from. The old monitor just says H & V sync, but doesn't say +/-. Would this invert my image? I am treading lightly on this since I don't want to kill 2 monitors in one day...
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Ken

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« Reply #24 on: September 09, 2007, 05:15:43 pm »

I'm getting there... I got the image corrected. I needed to use the +H/V sync. Then the image was upside down. The wires for the yoke can be flipped to correct that.  So now I am about 95% of the way I had it last night... Just have to figure out how to adjust the Horizontal size... fore some reason, I can adjust Vertical bot not horizontal size....
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Ken

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glassbottlesrule
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« Reply #25 on: September 10, 2007, 06:30:12 pm »

Yes Bubba, if it says it needs an iso it needs one.  Most Power supply conversion kits keep the isolation transformer in place.  I can't imagine you took yours out, it's usuallly the first thing in line from the line cord.  From the isolation transformer it goes to the monitor, cabinet lights, power supply etc.
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bubba
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« Reply #26 on: September 10, 2007, 09:39:15 pm »

 I took out the transformer since it was throwing out low voltages all around. I thought this new power supply was taking the place of the transformer as well as the DC conversion. I wired my power cord directly to the new power supply. So, next time the circuit board it the only thing to get replaced? I have the original transformer board with what looks like a start capacitor....
right now, the only thing the 110 feeds is the monitor. I guess I need an iso to get the marquee to light up.. Also, according to the wiring diagram, the power supply board puts out 6.3VAC to the lights for the start button, and 27VDC that has something to do with something else trivial. That whole plug is disconnected right now. Any idea what to do with those?

I have learned a whole lot on this game.. even with my mistakes, I still think it was worth it. So far, I've troubleshooted a non-working game, and made it work. I blew up the monitor by a mistake, but I learned how to discharge a monitor. and swap it out. Then I learned how to flip the wiring on the yoke to change the image reflection. I also learned not to use a steel allen wrench to adjust the horizontal size. I may need to replace the horizontal coil on the board to get my adjustment now... I didn't get hurt, it cost me a few bucks more than I was hoping for, but I am still ahead on value. And I got Robotron biggrin
« Last Edit: September 10, 2007, 09:53:54 pm by bubba » Logged

Ken

V-63 -Bottles
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VMC ST56B Royal Crown - being built
Vendo HA56C Coke
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glassbottlesrule
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« Reply #27 on: September 14, 2007, 04:13:42 pm »

It's been awhile but I think 27vdc is for the coin door lights on the older williams games.I usually don't even pull the old power supply out.  I just leave it in and there is enough slack on the wiring harness to zip screw the switcher behind the old one.
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bubba
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« Reply #28 on: September 14, 2007, 07:46:23 pm »

I'll take a pic of the whole power supply that was in the game originally. There are a few components on the board that I am not sure about. The Transformer itself was putting out a few low voltages, so that is why I removed it. I thought the switching power supply was supposed to work the whole machine, especially since it came with an adapter card to use the existing plug off the dc board.

Bob Roberts site showed a few voltage conversions.. one for the player button lights which are normally 6.3v making it 12v and something on the coin door.
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Ken

V-63 -Bottles
2-Cavalier USS-64
VMC ST56B Royal Crown - being built
Vendo HA56C Coke
2-V63C DP
V63C Coke
U-Select-It 5cent candybar machine
Malinut
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« Reply #29 on: September 14, 2007, 10:15:31 pm »

I have a Stargate and Joust, both are powered from switchers and on both have the 6.3 vac and +27 disconnected.

I also cant remember what they are used for.  Machine can run fine w/o them..

FB

PS My Stargate is acting up.. If anyone has a ROM board for a Stargate, I would be interested.
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