Wheels

[collecture]

The V39 I just bought had wheels attached to the bottom for easy movement. From looking at them, they are the same type caster used on many coolers. They are in great shape - still rotating and rolling.

I would like to use them on my WD-5. Two of them are fastened tight to the frame and two are loose a little (1/4"). On the two that are loose, the whole shaft and bearing plate spins when you try to unscrew the nut.

What is the best way to remove these?

[Creighton]

Hey Tom,
Great scores of late!! Maybe soak in PB-Blaster and grab the shaft with needle nose vise grips? Picture?
Creighton

[BryanH]

Tom, If you can make it work, put some undiluted CLR in a couple of plastic cups... and let it sit over night.

[collecture]

Below are two pictures of the wheel.
The first one is of the nut of a tightly secured wheel.
The second is of one of the slightly loose wheels.

[bubba]

Tom.. do you have access to a torch??? Here is a crazy trick that should work, but gotta be careful...

Heat up the nut with a torch-- acetylene if possible.... good and hot. Next, spray the stud with WD-40 or penetrant of choice. The object being to cool the stud a bit and help separate the rust... Then hit it with an impact gun...  The WD40 is gonna make some big smoke, but this method had gotten off many an exhaust system and bolts that should have never come apart.

[collecture]

Thanks for the tips.
My problem is that somehow I have to secure the wheel and shaft, yet leave access to the nut;
otherwise, everything just spins.
I have seen far worse situations with some of the feet. This machine is pretty clean down there.
My vice grips won't work because of the lip in the metal.
There is not enough space to get my needlenose grips around the bearing plate. A C-clamp gets in the way of the nut.
 '>  b4  '>

[MoonDawg]

Can you remove the nut holding the shaft the wheel spins on?
       Wheels that were optional for the 39 were 2 in the rear and were used as a dolly.  These steel wheels will probably roll pretty rough.   Why not cut them off and buy new quiet ones for your cooler?

[sodaworks]

I agree with Glen, the bearings will probably be shot. New casters are cheap. check with Lowe's if not Graingers.

[collecture]

QUOTE

...the bearings will probably be shot. New casters are cheap.

These are still in great shape - rolling and rotating.
I'm a purist when it comes to my machines - original parts and accessories if I can.
I have tried several casters from different sources.
The problem is those that attach with a shaft like these are 3-inch wheels
and there is not enough room in the "wheel well" of the cooler for them to rotate a full 360, which hinders the free movement of the machine.
Those that are small enough either don't have the heigth or mount with four bolts in the corners.
The four bolt casters are my very last resort.
If I cannot remove these for use, I feel I'll find some eventually.
According to the manual, the optional WD-5 casters as the same that were used
on almost all of the Westinghouse chest coolers.

[Jim]

Tom,

You could try a nut splitter, at least that's what I've been told the tool is called... You might have to search a little to find one. I've used this type of tool more on gas pumps than soda machines but has proven itself as a good tool to have around... Kinda like having an easy-out tool; it doesn't get used much but it's needed, you're sure glad you have it!

If everything spins, can you tell if the threaded insert that is normally spot welded to the base has broken free...?

After another quick review, a saws-all blade may fit between the base plate and the wheel to cut the bolt...