Beauty is skin deep

[johnieG]

Here's what appeared to be a very nicely "restored"
V-81A that I'm shopping out for a customer to repair some (what was supposed to be cosmedic damage),

underneath the slick looking Coke-red & clearcoat is  shoddy workmanship, what caused it? an improperly re-installed drain tube & missing chassis chalking, now he's in for some $$$ in repair work to take care of the rusted out bottom pan & sides as well as the inner tray of the main door.

once repaired, I'm coating the back-side of the tank/liner with Rino-coat ( spray on truck bedliner, basically catalized liquid plastic) also the back or the doorliner (also corroded) and we'll be hitting the chassis bottom tray about 1/4 of the way up to. ( after media blasting) I'll post more pic's as this progresses

[coke_and_stuff]

Ive seen this one to many times, Thats why you ALWAYS sandblast every square inch of a machine.

Joey

[johnieG]

I agree, you also have to disassemble it, & get to what lurks beneath...his stage, along with a contant supply of water from the leaking drain tubing, it would have been only a short while before the outer finish would have started to blister.

In this case, my bodyman is going to apply "soda-blasting"
(baking-soda that is, sodiumbicarbonate) this will be less aggressive to the thinned metal, but very thorough to the rust, plus, its fine texture will help get into the seam areas better than sand .

[dr galaga]

(johnieG @ Nov. 12 2006,2:45)

QUOTE

my bodyman is going to apply "soda-blasting"

Huh?  He uses dry baking soda instead of sand?

[johnieG]

Yes, it's baking soda, but not as fine as the stuff you use in a cake, it's a little more granular like table sugar in texture, it can be used dry, like conventional media, or wet in a water blast. it's been used sucessfully in the automotive restoration relm for a few years now, they also have a "K-Line" (Potasium chloride) media which is a bit more aggressive, but still will not harm the underlying metal/base,

Here's an  an update of the Vendo V 81a's restoration as it moves along, basically the first "restoration" was strickly cosmetic in nature, as the pictures are showing, none of it (prior resto') addressed any of the rustout showing in the pictures,

I've added a stiffing brace lengthwise down along the rear inside wall, to remedy the "oil-can" effect common on this area. and the new bottom pan has been fitted & tack welded into place, as well as a nice fiberglassing to the outside of the back (also to add stiffness to the is thin area. (this was added  to take care of some panel weakness due to a "dolly-handle" which was removed from the back , actually it appears to have torn out, because this areas metal is thin to begin with)

we also treated the pitted inner chassis with POR rust treatment & POR Topcoat, this stuff is tough! if you work with it, use gloves, because is doesn't come off skin, untill it wears away!  anyway here are the pictures to date...l

[Eric]

Hey thanks for the images and info I'll look into the Rino-Coating stuff when I start taking my machines apart....
You're doing a great job... sould put these images larger in the before after gallery for other to watch and learn from.
Again Thanks for posting

[davet426]

i suppose a lot of you have a shop or send out for sand blasting. I was thinking about purchasing a siphon feed for the garage. After reading this post I know I want one!

If you do this at home, do you use a tarp build a catch?

Is the media reusable or do you spread it through the yard to help with the flowers?

The one below is a Maxus 10.5 cfm @ 90 PSI. Says it give approx 150 minutes of blast per 90 lbs bag of media

Any help would be aprreciated.

[Ridewithme38]

Thats sad...Thats what i love about this site you guys take the older machines that people have moved past and rebuild them to better then the new ones!!

[loman4ec]

I would think twice about doing serious sand blasting in the garage. My dad had a car sandblasted in our garage when I was younger. When we sold the house 5 years later we were still finding sand everywhere and we lived in Ohio. Not something i would advise if your wife isn't understanding. '>

[MoonDawg]

Dave, the holding tank on the sandblasting unit you showed is far to big, and hard to store.  Look for a smaller one, even though you may need to fill it more often.

[sodaworks]

If your going to do your own sandblasting I would highly reccomend a pressurized unit.

[davet426]

So i looked at the two. Why pressurized:?

[rogerz]

Because I have a siphon feed unit I am going to say that the pressurized units keep the sand flowing till the end. The siphon ones seem to suck a hole in the media and stop flowing till you shake it '>   It can really frustrate you.

Right Terry?


rz

[sodaworks]

That's one of the problems with a syphon system. The presurized sandblaster's are much more effiecient. When I used a syphon system it usually took about 6 hours and 5 bags of sand to sandblast a machine. Now it takes me about 2 hours and 2-3 bags of sand. Harbor freight sells a pressurized unit that holds around 75# sand for under a 100 bucks. The pressurized units also allow you to adjust air and sand volume. I found that with the syphon system I wasted more time blasting, more sand and had a bigger mess to clean up.

[BryanH]

(davet426 @ Dec. 03 2006,7:57)

QUOTE

i suppose a lot of you have a shop or send out for sand blasting. I was thinking about purchasing a siphon feed for the garage. After reading this post I know I want one!

If you do this at home, do you use a tarp build a catch?

Is the media reusable or do you spread it through the yard to help with the flowers?

The one below is a Maxus 10.5 cfm @ 90 PSI. Says it give approx 150 minutes of blast per 90 lbs bag of media

Any help would be aprreciated.

I bought a 40lb pressurized unit from Harbor Freight.  Use it in my side yard (it's gravel) on a tarp to catch the sand.  The media can be reused. But I'm told only once.  It needs to be screened before reusing.

150 mins per 90lbs seems like an exaggeration to me.

[bubba]

BryanH... what is the secret to getting this blaster to work consistantly... I have the same one, and it seems like I spend more time messing with it to make it work than actually using it. I usually end up using my little gravity feed Craftsman

[BryanH]

Hey Ken - I'm no expert but given Harbor Freights quality, I'm wondering if you may have got a bum unit. What's your problem?  Is your media dry?  It took me awhile to get used to it, but basically you pick the nozzle size and then there are three valves settings that need to be adjusted. Check this media blaster thread out for details on how to set them.

[bubba]

I am using playsand, and it has been in the tank and sealed for awhile. It should be pretty much moisture free. I'll have a look at that thread, but basically it seems like it runs out of sand, even when its full. I'll get air, but no sand. I haven't tried it in a few months, but last time I got soo aggrevated,  I almost pushed it off the loading dock at work...

[Alecigio]

Bubba, the problem might be with the sand you are using. You should go to a NAPA or Carquest and get some recycled glass sand for sandblast. It is pretty cheap and works good. There are different grades. Soft, medium and extre rough. Medium should be fine, soft is more like dust. Good luck.

[bubba]

Really.... I thought it was just playsand...   '>   I tried an autoparts store we deal with at work, and they didn't have anything special. Guess I need to get to a bigger store...

Thanks

[Creighton]

Will the HF unit work with blasting media baking soda or just sand?
Thanks,
Creighton

[sodaworks]

Dave, I reclaim and reuse my sand one time. After that it's too fine and dusty. You don't want to breath in the silica dust.

[BryanH]

(Creighton @ Jan. 14 2007,8:20)

QUOTE

Will the HF unit work with blasting media baking soda or just sand?
Thanks,
Creighton

Creighton - don't know for sure.  Instructions with HF tools are pretty limited and usually poorly translated.  That said, I don't know why it wouldn't work.

[SIGNGUY]

Ok,
I need a sandblaster, but currently my compressor is dead too.. so What size air compressor do i need and whats the best but most affordable blaster unit??? I don't mind if I need to take some breaks and wait for the compressor to catch up, or is this bad.?? I was thinking a 30 gallon portable unit?? the bigger ones are out of my budget range I think.... I guess if I am going to be more than 500 on the whole setup, Maybe I'll just look at outsourcing?
Thoughts? suggestions..or just tell me to forget it... sure would be fun though.... '>

[sodaworks]

Signguy- I wouldn't go any less than 60 gallons AC if you plan on doing very much sandblasting. I used to have a 5hp,60 gallon but felt I needed more, I could have gotton buy but I decided on upgrading to 8hp, 80 gallon Porter cable comp. It was only a couple extra hundred bucks but well worth it. The HP unit from HF works just fine. With the air/sand flow valves you can dial it in.
Bubba- I found that play sand was too coarse. Try using 30 to 60 grit.

I use the crushed glass in my bead blaster, much safer in there. You don't want to be breathing in the glass.

[bubba]

Thanks Terry.. I was wondering about breathing in the glass, but I figured it must be a different type of stuff. I've played with a few different types of play sand.. the general purpose stuff, and then some of the bleached sand, and masonry sand. Where can I get the 30-60 grit sand? I'll have to look into it again...

[sodaworks]

Bubba, I usually use 30, 40 and 60 grits of sand. 30 being the coarser.

[TomFromJersey]

Ken
  I've got a place down by me that sells the sand. Ace Hardware//Yardville Supply.

[bubba]

Thanks guys... I guess I'll have to look around a bit more..    '>

[sodaworks]

Lowe's carries 30 grit.