V81D in for repair

[johnieG]

So as shown in the picture, in route to the stuck vending link issue,  the liner is in the state of decay & way too brittle to be of further use, ( it was held in place with hot-glue & some old wood paneling on the back-side) so it & the main door and latch gaskets will be replaced with stock from Funtronics.  the vent panel can be reused as well as the round link-adjustment point cover (round-hole)

[johnieG]

and the liner was damaged in the past & hot glued together again when someone attempted to repair the non working bottle port florescent lamp, as you can see, it has an incorrect 2-wire on/off switch in place of the proper 4-wire push-to start switch, the wiring harness is spliced wrong too, so I have some more electrical repairs to attend to.   Oh & the past Thomas Edison didn't fix the light problem, but on the bright side ( see what I did there) every thing is still good from the buld to the ballast, so a correct switch will fix it up.

[Zerbie]

Thanks for the updates - great pics & some fun with your Thomas Edison humor   

[johnieG]

Finishing up some wiring mods for the door electrics, for something a little different I've been wanting to try, I've added a 10 watt LED S6 bulb & socket just behind the "use correct change onle" flag, this will give a glowing halo effect to the plexiglass window that displays the label, ( not yet mounted) and since there's no sold out mechanism mechanical link to worry about this will work fine, I've reporpused the wiring strain-relief from the old (removed) coinmech ceramic heater assy. & used it to pass the circuit through the door to the lamp socket.

[johnieG]

Next up was straightening out the funky bottle port light, I decided to go with a self-starter (F/4 size) for the florescent port lamp which will eliminate the need for the manual push to start switch originally used on this machine, plus the ballast had a handy dandy wiring diagram printed right on it for reference ( not that I needed one  ) I fab'd up a small angled bracket to mount the starters socket inside the door cavity [A] and used a piece of 2" PVC tubing to provide a bit of protection from direct contact with the insulation, I will add a removable hole cover on the liner itself to facilitate future replacement when necessary without the need to remove the whole dam liner to get to it. the old incorrect switch [C] is seen dangling in the foreground awaiting removal & replacement with a new push-button style on/off switch

[johnieG]

Well I wired it up & temporarily substituted a wire nut for the on/off switch ( which I misplaced somewhere around the shop...  ) a fresh F13/T5- 21" lamp and ....let there be light!

[johnieG]

As my Mom used to say, "you'll find it were ever you left it last"...and I did!      the door port wiring is complete.

[Jim]

Coming along nicely ! ! !
Thanks for documenting your process!

[Zerbie]

I agree with Jim - thanks for documenting and sharing your intuitiveness with us!

[johnieG]

Thanks for your feedback....


here's the re-pop coin bezel & the vinyl "correct change only" flag Decal with the new plexiglass window installed on the coindoor,  all were purchased from Funtronics, word of warning thought on the Decal. be sure to check your alignment of how the flag (Decal) sits it the window before sticking it in place, if you assume to align the top of the decal with the top of the metal flag you will find that the words are sitting too high up once the door is closed & will be obscured by the top white masking of the plexi-window.

My back-light mod for the sold out window looks nice as desired, I just have to fab a black mask to "frame" the decal & block the view around the sides/edges of the flag for a cleaner more refined look.

here's a comparison side by side of the reproduction plexiglass window VS the OEM piece, the old owner attempted to clean the original window & found out that the masking wiped right off... my son took note & suggested using white electrical tape to re-mask the back side, & it turned out very nice!   making a mental note to use this trick on future projects with the same problem / damage...  also mind that the original window is a bit yellowed from age & obviously scratched & scuffed up