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Author Topic: 1975 bally pinball Em game  (Read 8063 times)
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briandr1
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« on: February 02, 2014, 11:09:09 am »

I recently got a 1975 ball Hi deal pinball game. when I pluged it in the playfield lit up and the score reel motor tried to reset. Ive been studing how they work and the first thing I did was check and change the dc blade fuses. I lost all light after that so I checked the transformer, it had 110 at the bottom but no 6 or 50 volt current at the top im almost sure that's my problem but I know some guys on here have some pinball games and thought I would ask for some tips and advice. thanks in advance

Brian
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pinballdude
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« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2014, 01:07:28 pm »

I'm NOT an expert @ pin repair but they say Bally fuse holders are the worst. replace all fuse holders because they lose their gripping power or just break. Check this page for information compiled to help you repair all pinball games. There should be links of suppliers. I think Pinball Resource is best.


http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

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briandr1
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« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2014, 01:13:06 pm »

Thanks for your help I have replaced all the fuses, Ill check the link you gave. I think my low voltae is the case because all ive read says how to test the transformer and  im getting voltage in but no low voltage out. Ive checked the voltage at the fuse holder none there too. darn darn
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ClassicCokeLover
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« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2014, 01:19:17 pm »

I believe you should see for output, 50 volts AC and a lower voltage for lamps.
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briandr1
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« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2014, 01:33:47 pm »

your right it should be ac not dc. according to the research ive done its 6 volts ac for the lights and 50 volts ac for the solenoids
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oldskoolcoinop
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« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2014, 05:51:35 pm »

  It would be a rare occurance for that transformer to go bad IMO and yes, Bally fuse holders are the worst. Since that's what was touched before the lights went out, seems like a logical place to start.
   Also, some games you need to hit usually the left flipper after you turn them on to light them up and on still other games, you actually have to start a game by inserting a coin or the start button (if there's credits) to light the playfield. I'm not sure what the case may be on that particular game. You can also try manually activating the hold or lock relay or try tripping a few others to see if that gives you any life.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2014, 06:20:52 pm by oldskoolcoinop » Logged
ClassicCokeLover
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« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2014, 03:25:53 pm »

your right it should be ac not dc. according to the research ive done its 6 volts ac for the lights and 50 volts ac for the solenoids

So have you tested the output on the transformer with a multi-meter? That will take a lot of guessing out of the picture.
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briandr1
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« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2014, 08:53:24 pm »

I tested the transformer but you guys were right the problem was the fuse holders I didn't realize one of the fuses was a live in voltage. After cleaning the fuse holders I got voltage and a simple coin door issue later I was playing pinball!!!! there are a few more little issues to deal with but im happy my two hundred dollar b day present has turned into hours of fun. Thanks for all your help.


Brian
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Kilroy
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« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2014, 09:08:48 pm »

For pinball and jukeboxes. , I don't do anything until I have a manual and schematic  available.
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rayg
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« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2014, 10:07:45 pm »

 The good thing about EM pins is they still make everything you need to get them going and the parts are reality cheap. So once you get all the contacts clean and repair all the rodent chewed up wires (base on where it came from)  and the machine all working, the best thing for it is to play it.....most contacts are self cleaning.

Here's a link to a great EM repair guide that I reference quite offer.

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

Jim (Kilroy) is right it's wise to get a manual and schematic for your pin.  trust me the come in handy!

Good Luck!
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