Replace or repair a compressor?

[Fire708]

My compressor in my v56 square top doesn't seem to get very cold.  The tiny line going into the evaporator will get really cold for a couple of minutes then it seems to quit. The whole evaporator will get cool but no where near as cold as the one in my v63.  The line into the condenser will get very warm to the touch.  The fans are working properly and the compressor starts and continues to run just fine.  The only refrigeration guy in my town told me (over the phone) there might be sludge in the system and the whole thing should be replaced.

I'd like to keep the original look of the evaporator but I don't wanna spend $800 on a machine that cost me $75. Would it be cheaper to send it out and have it restored or should I just replace it?

Oh, the unit is out of the machine right now so I was wondering if it was just an issue with the outside air temp being in the 80's

[johnieG]

Replacing the compressor by itself won't effect the looks of the evaporator in the least, but the capillary tube (which looks like thin copper "spaghetti" that runs from the condenser up to the evaporator and is usually soldered along the large 1/4" copper suction line) may be clogging up due to ice crystals ( water in the system due to a leak) especially if the icing comes & goes right at the point were it enters the evaporator. 

But plugging from sludge in the oil is typically terminal because once it's plugged up, it's plugged for good.  However, the V63 has no real filter dryer from the factory, what it does have is a small stainless-steel filter sieve (it looks like a mini tube sock shaped deal) that is inside the tail end of the lower exit line of the condenser, this is typically what's plugged up with crud, but to get it out of there you have to discharge the system, & cut the end off of the tube & pull it out with a hooked dental tool ( that's what I use anyway) then braze in an actual filter dryer.

If the compressors still running strong then you could  just have the system leak checked, & repaired as required, flush the condenser & lines plus the evaporator, install a new filter/dryer & the system recharge.

[briandr1]

Im having the exact same problem with a cooler the capilary tube instantly starts iceing up within seconds of turning the machine on right at the point where it goes into the evaporator. and the corner of the evap ices up where the cap tube goes in. Its odd sometimes it will cool to 30 degrees but most time it will only get down to 50.

[MrMark]

@ Fire708 - It sounds like you could be low on charge, but are the operating conditions of it not getting as cold as your V63 with the system installed, or not installed, as per your last comment?

It is unlikely there is sludge in a virgin system. Has the system ever been serviced that you can tell?

If the compressor runs, I am putting my bets on the system being low on charge. Inspect all the refrigeration lines closely for signs of oil wetting. If you find it, your leak is in the area. Once done, have the refrigerant recovered, pressure tested, any leaks repaired, and recharged.

It is not uncommon to see ice forming where the cap tube enters the evaporator on a properly operating unit. If there is no ice, then it's likely undercharged, or way, way, way, over charged (this isn't HVAC where any ice is always bad!). The hot gas line going to the condenser should be warm to hot to the touch.

If the unit is out of the box and running in "free air", it's difficult to tell if it's cooling properly. The warmer air will cause any ice line to move toward the cap tube (this happens on initial pull down when the evaporator is inside the box as well.). As the box temperature comes down, there's less heat in the air to be removed, and the ice line moves deeper inside the evaporator. If the system is overcharged, the ice line will actually move out toward the compressor, even to the compressor - and that is BAD, way BAD!!!

@briandr1 - read the above, and, you may have a bad thermostat. But most important, please start a new thread to discuss your box and problem. Yours may (and I think, is) be a totally different set-up that needs to be addressed and it get's confusing when trying to help people out, who is talking to who about what.  javascript:void(0);

[Fire708]

Thank you both for the info. I don't believe the system has been worked on so I will check for oil, clean It up, and reinstall. If its still not cooling properly

I'll be shipping it off to a professional.

[globalcompressors]

or it could be simply bad door seals or dirty condenser coils.

everyone is always so quick to jump on the "moisture" or "leak"
band wagon.   

clean it up, re-adjust your thermostat, make sure both fans
are operating...run it for 24 hrs and then go from there.

baby steps Guys.... step by step, first!

[Creighton]

>> or it could be simply bad door seals or dirty condenser coils.

So true. If you can't see through the coils you aren't done cleaning yet.

Creighton

[briandr1]

Of course Ive already checked the obvious condenser and evap coils, all clean and clear all fans are operational door seals are good. I believe its either the compressor thermal overload, or perhaps a low charge, Ive got my refrigeration guy coming by this week to check charge and sniff for leaks, so wish me luck.

[johnieG]

K' "Luck"

[briandr1]

Thanks for all the help the cooler had a small refriderant leak after a small repair and a good vacuum pulled was  able to charge the machine. Now the machine holds a 35 degree temp with the new thermostat at 5, it took a little bit of work but was worth the effort.  Thanks again for the help guys.


Brian