SMC Discussion Areas
November 23, 2024, 10:04:39 am *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 [All]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Done! Vert 6 case  (Read 31554 times)
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« on: September 24, 2011, 09:28:20 pm »

UPDATE #1 ON PAGE 2 - 9.26.11
UPDATE #2 ON PAGE 3 - 10.4.11
UPDATE #3 & #4 ON PAGE 4 - 10.8.11
UPDATE #5 ON PAGE 4 - 10.13.11
FINAL PRODUCT ON PAGE 4 - 11.1.11

Hello everyone,
I am a newbie and I have just jumped into the restoration world with my first purchase of a Vendo 6 case vertical cooler. I purchased this to keep in my home. As a newbie, I hope my questions are not super annoying to you all, but I do have a lot of questions to ask. I hope that some of you can help me out and I appreciate your time helping me learn! I have posted 50 detailed pictures of my machine on the following link (if people prefer to have them on the forum, that's fine, but I didn't want to have a huge post).  

Link to my cooler: http://www.design46.com/cokemachine.html

I keep going back and forth with whether I totally restore this machine or just do a partial restoration. What do you think??? The outside shell is in pretty good condition and most of the rust is in the tub liner and below the frame around the condenser. The cooling system does work and is quiet, but when the condenser kicks on, it's pretty loud (I have a someone who knows more about cooling systems coming to look at it on Monday).

I know it's all a matter of opinion on full vs partial restoration, but I'd appreciate your opinion as well.

I have been reading through the forum over the past couple days and I know I'll have a lot of questions on products to use for rust, insulation to use, etc.

So, again, thanks for your time and please tell me what you think.

On a side note, the work you guys do is pretty amazing to me and is inspiring!  
« Last Edit: November 01, 2011, 04:23:55 pm by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
BrianS
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 731



« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2011, 10:45:29 pm »

Fabes,

Welcome to the site and congatulations on your machine.  I can offer a bit of insite as I was asking myself all these same questions just a few months ago.  You will find the people on this site to be top notch and willing to share a vast amount of knowledge that just isn't available anywhere else.  My first recommendation is to do your research.  There is a ton of info already on this forum that can be found through the Search feature.  I have spent hours reading past posts and learned a lot.  Determining how far to go on the restoration is a big question.  I decided to go all out, as best I could.  I don't regret that, but it is a long process for a newbie and not a cheap endeavor.   Each step will have different options and if you don't have the skills or equipment to do it yourself, finding local resources to outsource to can potentally be a challenge.  Regardless of how you proceed, you will find past posts on almost any topic giving you pros and cons of various options so read, read, read.  And if you still have questions, everyone here is willing to share what they know.  Good luck and welcome.  You will find this a fun and addicting hobby!!
Logged

Brian

Vendo 56 - restored
Vendo 81 - in progress
Vendo 39 - in the rough
Rockola 1428 - Original
1959 Williams Pinch Hitter
Wurlitzer 1400
1930 Koken Barber Pole
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2011, 11:09:04 pm »

Thanks ILikeCoinOp,
I have actually been reading this forum all week and have been taking notes on a lot of what I have read. Sounds like everyone on here is very helpful, which is great!

Well, I guess I'll start with RUST... I have seen POR 15 recommended a lot on this forum for treating rust. so I suppose I'll start there. Should that do the trick, or is there another product I should use instead (given the looks of my machine)?

Again, thanks in advance for the help out there.
Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
BrianS
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 731



« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2011, 11:51:49 pm »

Fabes

Rust is definately the biggest first step.  Others will jump in, but I would recommend getting rid of all the rust not just covering it up.  I would also recommend completely dismantling your machine if you plan to restore it.  Rust can hide!!  I submit the following - which actually amazed me.  I have two machines that I just had blasted.  I am very pleased with the actual rust damage.  There are a few small holes to repair, but overall, the cabinets are pretty solid.  The first pic is a Vendo 81 with a new bottom cabinet panel sitting in place.  The second is a Vendo 56.  Basicly the same pic, but the bottom panel is not there.  From the outside I was originally pretty sure that there were no beltline rust problems with either machine.  The last pic is the original bottom panels from both machines and their replacements.  They were toast and really shocked me when I first pulled out the old insulation.  I would check this out on your machine as this is a pretty common issue.
Logged

Brian

Vendo 56 - restored
Vendo 81 - in progress
Vendo 39 - in the rough
Rockola 1428 - Original
1959 Williams Pinch Hitter
Wurlitzer 1400
1930 Koken Barber Pole
MoonDawg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6227



« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2011, 07:48:34 am »

        There are a lot of machines that require a full restoration, but yours is not one of them (in my opinion). Most people refer to this as a "nice original" and appreciate it more than one with new paint which is usually applied to hide dent and rust repairs.
        Most of the issues you have can be resolved by removing parts, cleaning / painting and replacing screws. If rust has created large holes through the floor of the liner you can choose to remove it, but you will have to cut off the drain tube which is good because it is or was plugged up and caused the rust to begin with. I would certainly leave the wood intact as it in a pain to reproduce. The screws in the bottom of the cabinet and main door are probably disinegrated by rust so you can just replace them with longer and /or larger ones.
       But the first step is to remove the gasket and breaker strip from the front bottom of the liner and pull out the compressor unit. Scrape and clean the floor to see really how much rust damage you have. If you can fix it in place.....the rest will be easy.
        The calcium stains on the grill should be able to be cleaned with CLR and I would suggest trying to find a replacement lock for the main door. I hope you have the cap catcher, that is a really nice cooler...... and welcome to the site. Keep us posted!
Logged

Glen
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2011, 08:24:41 am »

Thanks for the insight MoonDawg. I do actually have the cap catcher, just didn't take a picture of it.

As far as the drain tube goes, how would you recommend removing it? Should I get a replacement, or just remove it, clean it up and put it back?

Again, thanks for the help!
Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
MoonDawg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6227



« Reply #6 on: September 25, 2011, 09:16:27 am »

        The drain was soldered in after the liner was installed, so it is not one of the removable parts. You could cut it at a point just prior to where it makes the bend, clear the remaining stub, then slip a rubber or plastic hose over it to lead water to your drain pan. Or if you want to get real fancy, you could make a similar P trap out of copper tubing to keep all of your cold air inside the cooling compartment, although I have never done it this way.
Logged

Glen
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2011, 09:24:29 am »

Ok, that sounds good. Again, thanks for the help! I'm excited to get going on this!
Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
rayg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1076



« Reply #8 on: September 25, 2011, 09:55:16 am »

Welcome aboard !  biggrin Nice machine , I agree with Glen I would leave it as a "nice original"
Logged

1954 Stoner Senior
1964 United Orbit shuffle bowler   
1973 Cavalier USS-96
1976 Atari Night Driver
1979 Space Invaders Deluxe
1980 Centipede Cabaret (60in1)
1984 Williams Laser Cue Pinball
1993 IGT Wild Cherry Slot
1996 Police Trainer
2016 Visual Pinball Machine
Member : Michigan Mafia
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #9 on: September 25, 2011, 10:30:08 am »

Thanks rayg!

Just curious as to how rare or what this is worth (my guess is it's not that rare). I paid $700 for it. Rare or not rare, I'm pumped to have it in my house for my beer and Coke!

-Pete
Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
collecture
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6959


Tom


« Reply #10 on: September 25, 2011, 10:39:16 am »

Welcome....definately keep it original!
Looks like you might be missing the cover for the compressor connections. I might have one or somebody else might have an extra if you need it. I'd take the compressor assembly out, install new fans, wiring harness and T-stat (if needed). The T-stat can easily be swapped out later if it proves bad.
Once the compressor assembly is removed, then you can give the machine a thorough cleaning. POR-15 does work really well and I do recommend it.
An old woodworker tip, break off toothpicks in worn out screw holes and screw the screws back in.
Have fun!
Logged

Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #11 on: September 25, 2011, 11:09:00 am »

Thanks for the advice collecture,

I'd like to have a cover for the compressor connections if it's part of the machine. If you or anyone has one, please PM me and I'll be happy to buy it.

Is this the correct wiring harness I should purchase from FunTronics?:
http://www.fun-tronicsllc.com/index.php?crn=237&rn=781&action=show_detail

I am planning on purchasing the POR 15 Super Starter kit to do fix the frame's rust. I have purchased the red spray paint from FunTronics (link below): Will this red spray paint from Funtronics work well after using the POR 15 "Prep & Ready" & "Marine Clean"?
http://www.fun-tronicsllc.com/index.php?crn=336&rn=635&action=show_detail

Thanks
« Last Edit: September 25, 2011, 11:14:54 am by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
90grad
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1245


Thanks to all our veterans for our freedom!


« Reply #12 on: September 25, 2011, 12:19:57 pm »

As far as the drain tube goes, how would you recommend removing it? Should I get a replacement, or just remove it, clean it up and put it back?

The easiest way is to buy a new replacement drain tube from Funtronics.  Theirs comes in two pieces and is easy to install.  You will have to cut the old one to get it out.

The wood in this machine is the "long pole in the tent".  I recently restored a Vendo 110, which is a 6-case with a coin mech.  I had a friend of mine do the wood work.  Some of the pieces I was able to use again.  Glen (Moondawg) is spot-on with his assessment on the difficulties associated with this particular model.  I'd leave it as an original and clean it up as best you can.
Logged

Wayne

Mid-Atlantic Chapter

Cavalier 51 (1953)
Cavalier Airline Cooler
7-Up Picnic Cooler
Vendo 110 (1957)
VMC 56 Bottle (1964)
VMC 56 Can
Westinghouse Master Water Bath Cooler
Westinghouse Standard Ice Cooler
Westinghouse WB-102 (1963)
collecture
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6959


Tom


« Reply #13 on: September 25, 2011, 01:20:08 pm »

I would not be spraying any red paint on this machine. Nothing on the exterior or inside the compressor area looks that bad! I doubt the reds will match perfectly and you'll regret it.
I would not be cutting your drain tube either unless there are large holes on the bottom of the tub and you need to replace it. Remove the compressor and use the POR15 kit (Silver) on the bottom of the tub. It is self-leveling and will fill in any pin holes probably up to about the size of a BB. Based on the top of the compressor area, your machine has not had a lot of condensation leaking through. The tub does look rusty in your pic, but I doubt you have any holes too large for POR15 to fill.
Logged

Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #14 on: September 25, 2011, 09:38:04 pm »

collecture,
Is there any way I can speak to you about all this? I'm still confused as to what I should do with the area inside/around the condenser....Just clean it? my email is fabes23@gmail.com. If you could, please email me or PM me your phone number and I'll call you if you have the time. Thanks
Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #15 on: September 26, 2011, 10:50:10 pm »

UPDATE #1: Today I got some good news and bad news with my machine....

Bad news first:
I took the cooling unit out (and cussed a lot censored) and saw that there were several pin holes and 3 pretty good size holes in the tub (see pics) under the evaporator. Looks like I'm going to have to find someone who can weld and powder coat (anyone know of anyone near or in Chicago that can help me out with that or suggestions on finding someone reputable?).



Good News:
I cleaned out the area around the condenser and compressor and it turned out pretty clean. I only used soap and water. There are a lot of raw iron spots....**What would you pros suggest I do with these raw iron spots???**





Bottom of unit:
**More raw iron...should I put a product on this or paint it? suggestions?**



THANKS EVERYONE!
« Last Edit: September 26, 2011, 11:01:31 pm by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
collecture
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6959


Tom


« Reply #16 on: September 26, 2011, 11:22:31 pm »

Wow...I would have never guessed you had holes that big in that machine. Somebody ran it for a long time with a clogged drain tube!

Oooh...that is a big, tall & heavy machine to be putting on casters....I'd be wary doing that.

Heat the feet up with a torch and they should unscrew - otherwise you run the risk of snapping them off. If they are extra stubborn, try a little PB Blaster first.

I have a compressor terminal cover that will fit your compressor. Unfortunately it looks like the bottom of your tub!
It is yours if you want it - reimburse me for shipping is all i want.
LMK
Logged

Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
90grad
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1245


Thanks to all our veterans for our freedom!


« Reply #17 on: September 27, 2011, 06:36:59 am »

You can get some casters for the machine which will take the weight.  I got mine from Reid Supply.  I bought them through Amazon, but Reid is where they came from.  I think mine were rated at 125 lbs each.  Just be sure you get the correct stem size.  I took one of the old ones to Home Depot and used the screw template they have in the nuts & bolts aisle to tell me what size it was.

Tom is so right about being careful with getting the old feet out.  They snap off easily.  If that happens, it is fixable (trust me, I have snapped them off a fewe times).  Drill out the excess VERY carefully and then re-tap the hole.  Like selecting the casters, you have to use the correct size tap.
Logged

Wayne

Mid-Atlantic Chapter

Cavalier 51 (1953)
Cavalier Airline Cooler
7-Up Picnic Cooler
Vendo 110 (1957)
VMC 56 Bottle (1964)
VMC 56 Can
Westinghouse Master Water Bath Cooler
Westinghouse Standard Ice Cooler
Westinghouse WB-102 (1963)
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #18 on: September 27, 2011, 07:28:49 am »

I'll be careful on the caster removal for sure. And thanks for the tip on the new casters. Can anyone shed some light on what I should do with the exposed iron on the bottom and inside of the compressor area?

Should I leave it, protect it with a product, then paint it?
« Last Edit: September 27, 2011, 09:08:53 am by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
SIGNGUY
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5442


Collector of Ol Smoothie Rootbeer


WWW
« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2011, 09:44:51 am »

are you just doing a clean up job, and not restoring it?

personally I'd think that the area you cleaned up will still continue to rust and such if you don't do something to stop it.. but then again that would involve sandblasting it and repainting? so not sure how far your are going to take this one.

Logged

Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #20 on: September 28, 2011, 09:48:36 am »

Yes signguy, I'm going to sand it down to bare metal (bottom of machine and inside compressor area), treat it and repaint it. Gone this far, might as well take it a little further and make sure it lasts longer....
Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
SIGNGUY
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5442


Collector of Ol Smoothie Rootbeer


WWW
« Reply #21 on: September 28, 2011, 11:25:14 am »

Ok
I was just wondering since you where going through all the trouble of Cleaning it, only to sandblast it later? just seems like extra work?
Good luck on the restoration.. .it's hard but rewarding work!
ask questions as there are many knowledgable folks on the site!
Logged

Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #22 on: October 04, 2011, 08:41:43 am »

Fellas,
Here's my current update. The bottom shelf of the frame was so bad, that I had to replace it too  darn. I also sanded down the compressor area and bottom, treated it, primed and repainted it. The replacement shelf will be welded in today. I'll hit around the new weld with some POR15 and paint that too.

This has been a long process and I've learned a lot. I would have never paid what I did for this machine had I knew the work that needed to be done. Rookie/Newbie mistake, I guess. Next time I'll know!


« Last Edit: October 04, 2011, 08:44:26 am by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
Ken R
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 694



« Reply #23 on: October 04, 2011, 08:56:19 am »

Looks like it's coming along really nice!!!  Great job!
Logged

Vendolator VMC-149
Vendolator VF-56-7
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #24 on: October 04, 2011, 09:01:41 am »

Thanks, Ken. Being a rookie with no products and not many tools, it's become a bit of a "money pit" type project  glare But at least I'll have all the stuff I need if I do another one  laugh!
« Last Edit: October 04, 2011, 09:08:10 am by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
cokecolaman
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 986



« Reply #25 on: October 04, 2011, 09:04:36 am »

It won't be "if".... It will be when. Most people here will tell you that once you do your first machine, it's very addicting...
Logged

VMC Coke 88 (nice original)
VMC Pepsi 81
VMC Orange Crush 81
VMC Squirt 81
VMC Dr. Pepper 81
VMC RC 81
VMC 7up 81 st
Vendo 44 original
Jacobs 56 Pepsi
Cavalier 33
Ken R
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 694



« Reply #26 on: October 04, 2011, 01:02:58 pm »

Concur!  The search for another machine is half the fun!!!
Logged

Vendolator VMC-149
Vendolator VF-56-7
rayg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1076



« Reply #27 on: October 04, 2011, 10:44:23 pm »

Pete,

 It may have been somewhat expense, but if you learned something and enjoyed doing it then that's priceless... also you got to buy some new tools, that's a win win situation! 

Ray
Logged

1954 Stoner Senior
1964 United Orbit shuffle bowler   
1973 Cavalier USS-96
1976 Atari Night Driver
1979 Space Invaders Deluxe
1980 Centipede Cabaret (60in1)
1984 Williams Laser Cue Pinball
1993 IGT Wild Cherry Slot
1996 Police Trainer
2016 Visual Pinball Machine
Member : Michigan Mafia
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #28 on: October 07, 2011, 02:17:50 pm »

New shelf welded in, POR 15 laid down and silcon to help seal it. Getting there....
Prime, paint, wood frame next......

Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
Ken R
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 694



« Reply #29 on: October 07, 2011, 02:46:37 pm »

Great job and coming along nicely!  Thanks for posting your progress, it really helps with what to expect for those of us that haven't gotten into it just yet....into actually restoring one that is.
Logged

Vendolator VMC-149
Vendolator VF-56-7
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #30 on: October 08, 2011, 08:05:52 am »

Primed and Painted and wood treated. Installing wood frame next....

New bottom piece of wood frame made and new liner bottom....



I took an untraditional approach and actually went with there spray foam and ridged foam. I lined the liner and inside the frame with plastic, so they'd both be protected from getting the Great Stuff all over it.



Then I measured and installed the ridged foam. Then sprayed the Great Stuff inside the frame and in the corners (I completely covered the bottom with about 6 cans). Then installed the liner. Next, I drilled the straw sized hole around the wood and sprayed the Great Stuff inbetween the liner and the frame and waited for it to rise through the drilled holes in the wood (make sure you go slow. Work your way all around the machine by spraying a little in each hole one at at time. Also, make sure and tape around the drilled holes so the Great Stuff doesn't get all over). Once the spray foam came through the holes, I let it dry and simply cut the excess off.






Next I'll install the cooling system and drain tube. Almost there....
« Last Edit: October 11, 2011, 09:40:43 am by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #31 on: October 13, 2011, 03:00:23 pm »

Almost Done! I got the cooling unit in and currently waiting for my drain tube to dry in place. Still waiting on my piece of glass for the bottle door. Now I just need to figure out if I can get the lock housing working correctly. I see the light at the end of the tunnel, kind of.....

Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
tkaz
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1900

tkaz


WWW
« Reply #32 on: October 13, 2011, 08:23:59 pm »

Looking great!  You're making quick work of it.  I'm not too familiar with the 6-case, maybe some of the experienced can chime in, is the wood frame at the bottom normally left natural, or did they typically paint it red/black?
Logged

flippa
25 Cent Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 261


« Reply #33 on: October 13, 2011, 11:51:30 pm »

Looks great!!!!   happydrinkers
Logged
collecture
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6959


Tom


« Reply #34 on: October 14, 2011, 12:19:21 am »

Looks very nice Pete!
Did you repaint the whole machine? I am only seeing pics of the main cabinet.
I remember it appeared to be a nice original - just wondering whether you are attempting to preserve any of the original exterior finish?
Logged

Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
90grad
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1245


Thanks to all our veterans for our freedom!


« Reply #35 on: October 14, 2011, 06:23:56 am »

Looking great!  You're making quick work of it.  I'm not too familiar with the 6-case, maybe some of the experienced can chime in, is the wood frame at the bottom normally left natural, or did they typically paint it red/black?

tkaz,

The wood was left natural (I think it had some type of stain on it).  They didn't paint it.
Logged

Wayne

Mid-Atlantic Chapter

Cavalier 51 (1953)
Cavalier Airline Cooler
7-Up Picnic Cooler
Vendo 110 (1957)
VMC 56 Bottle (1964)
VMC 56 Can
Westinghouse Master Water Bath Cooler
Westinghouse Standard Ice Cooler
Westinghouse WB-102 (1963)
SIGNGUY
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5442


Collector of Ol Smoothie Rootbeer


WWW
« Reply #36 on: October 14, 2011, 09:16:21 am »

Looks Great Pete,

I got your shelves the other day, I have stripped them and will put them in the next batch of powder coating next week.

John
Logged

Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #37 on: October 14, 2011, 09:32:18 am »

Thanks guys! Tom, I did not paint the whole thing. I only painted the inside bottom. I wanted to keep the character of the old machine "look." So yes, it's still in nice original condition on the outsides. John, glad they arrived and thanks for the help on those shelves!

I'll post final pictures soon.
Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #38 on: November 01, 2011, 04:22:59 pm »

I am finally done! My first restoration is now behind me. I finished up this afternoon by putting the lock housing (thanks Tom!), bottle windows and door, and kick plate in. I'll be getting the rest of the shelves from John at the Chicago show.

I really want to thank all of you who helped me out. I know I had a ton of questions, and every time, you guys always came through with the help/answers. There's no way I would have been able to do this restoration without this forum! This group of people on this forum are truly great! This day and age, that's hard to find!!! Special thank you to Tom (collecture), John (at PopMachineShop) and Janet & Rod at Funtronics for the parts and the help.

Hopefully, I'll see a lot of you at the Chicago show next week!!!!

Off to find my next project.....Cheers! happydrinkers

« Last Edit: November 01, 2011, 04:25:02 pm by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
Creighton
Global Moderator
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4938


« Reply #39 on: November 01, 2011, 05:26:34 pm »

Looks great!!
Creighton
Logged
Kilroy
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4278



WWW
« Reply #40 on: November 01, 2011, 05:56:43 pm »

Ya done good!
Logged

"Restored they go for $6-7,000!!"
Member : Michigan Mafia
Jim
Administrator
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5880


#1 Soda Jerk!


WWW
« Reply #41 on: November 01, 2011, 07:51:20 pm »

Very Nice ! ! !
Logged

My six cents,

Jim

BrianS
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 731



« Reply #42 on: November 01, 2011, 10:54:09 pm »

Really looks nice.  Amazed at the speed that you turned it around
Logged

Brian

Vendo 56 - restored
Vendo 81 - in progress
Vendo 39 - in the rough
Rockola 1428 - Original
1959 Williams Pinch Hitter
Wurlitzer 1400
1930 Koken Barber Pole
Flightfanatic
10 Cent Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 145



WWW
« Reply #43 on: November 02, 2011, 03:10:16 pm »

Looks nice!
Logged

Dixie Narco DNCB 240/138-6
Dixie Narco DNCB 320M/184-8
Lacrosse CCB-90-9
Westinghouse Standard Ice Cooler
Westinghouse Master Ice Cooler
Westinghouse WC-96-T
Westinghouse WH-22-T
Ideal 35 Slider
FL Jacobs 35
BONOVOX
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1713



« Reply #44 on: November 02, 2011, 03:48:59 pm »

How did you do the letters?
The letters are the one thing that is holding me back from doing a resto.
Logged

I HAVE A PROBLEM.....
fabes
5 Cent Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66



« Reply #45 on: November 02, 2011, 09:28:29 pm »

It's actually original paint on the letters. The machine was in pretty good condition, so I didn't have to repaint. I need to touch up a couple letters though.
Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
------------
fabes23@gmail.com
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 [All]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.15 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!