BeaYoung
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« on: September 02, 2011, 11:13:46 am » |
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Hi Everyone!
I am beginning the restoration of a Glascock standard cooler and am looking for some guidance on how to strip the panels. At this point I have more rust than paint. See photo. Is soda blasting a good option? Will it cause warping? Is dry ice blasting another alternative? Will either do a good job removing rust from this very thin material?
In thinking about the painting issue. The hand painters get a little wiggy when I show them the thin black outline around the embossed white letters. One suggested placing a large black vinyl decal down on the embossed letters first and then almost completely covering it with a large white vinyl decal- creating the illusion of a thin black outline. Has anyone done this? How does it look? The painter was able to get a great electronic scan of one of the panels so recreating the exact lettering using vinyl shouldn't be an issue.
Has anyone restored one of these coolers? What have you done? Should I let go of the idea of the black outline and just have the letters hand-painted?
Hoping that someone can give this newbie some advice on the right way to precede. Thanks!
B.
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« Last Edit: September 02, 2011, 05:44:01 pm by johnieG »
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BeaYoung
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« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2011, 11:14:58 am » |
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Sorry for the typo in the last post heading!
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Eric
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« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2011, 01:01:20 pm » |
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I would trace the lettering, either have it scanned and rebuild the letters... Have masking decals made, strip it all, painte the white and (yellow if there is any)... apply the decals spray the red.. peel off the decals, clear coat, then you have perfect letters! Check with Rod at Funtronics.. he may have the decal masking for this cooler....
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Eric
WANTED: Embossed Quikold Standard
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BeaYoung
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« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2011, 01:25:16 pm » |
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Great idea on the painting white and covering the letters!! I've had the scans done but will check with funtronics too. Thanks for that!
How would you strip the panels?
B
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vendo39
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« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2011, 02:09:53 pm » |
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Soda blasting will remove paint and light surface rust only. Some guys will start off with soda and then hit the rust areas with a more abrasive product such glass beads or some grit of sand. I’m pretty sure the guy who does my blasting just starts with glass and moves up there if the rust is bad.
I know nothing about dry ice blasting.
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Brian
Vendo 39, 44, 56, 81B Vendo Changer, early Vendo Changer, late Dr. Pepper Queen Anne Nesbitts Ideal 85
Popperette, Stoner JR, Stoner 180, Stoner Theater, Mills Candy, Canteen Candy
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Pat Pixley
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« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2011, 03:20:52 pm » |
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I've seen the dry ice used on mold that was on floor joists in a home but not on metal. I think I would soda blast the go back over it ( the bad areaswith the heavy rust ) and glass bead it .
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BeaYoung
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« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2011, 04:15:39 pm » |
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Thanks! Do you know of anyone near Madison or Milwaukee, WI that does soda or bead blasting?
Are those systems expensive to buy? I already own a 2-stage compressor?
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Eric
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« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2011, 05:38:44 pm » |
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how about having them dipped... aren't those pretty thin metal wise... I would think a stripper or having them dipped then go over with steal wool... those aren't that big....
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Eric
WANTED: Embossed Quikold Standard
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johnieG
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« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2011, 05:47:31 pm » |
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Thanks! Do you know of anyone near Madison or Milwaukee, WI that does soda or bead blasting?
Are those systems expensive to buy? I already own a 2-stage compressor?
I was just in the Appleton area today & saw a furniture restoration shop just off to right on I-41 (Neenah?) between Oshkosh & Appleton ( heading north) the sign said soda-blasting...
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Spoon-feeding Newbies since 2001... Yeah..220,221 whatever it takes. Remember, all it needs is a shot of Freon! The Vendo V-83 is the '59 Edsel of the coke machine world. ;p Spray painting does NOT restore a compressor 11 is louder than 10... "Hope" is good, but it's not an action plan.
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