Vendo 63 compressor relay

I'm working on a Vendo 63 with a VT-25 refridgeration deck and can't find a replacement for the compressor start relay and overload protector.  I've been to a couple of appliance part shops with no success.  Is there a specific part number I should be asking for?  I would like to stick with OEM style parts if possible.  If not, they have suggested I use a 3 in 1 starter.  Will this work OK on this type of unit?
This site is great!  I want to give a big thanks for all the good information I've been able to get from reading previous posts from others on.  So far I've been able to remove the deck and troubleshoot it down to the start relay.  Now if I can just get the parts...
Thanks to anyone who can help,
Pete

[johnieG]

A 3-in-1 won't hurt anything, and there are other solid-state
start/run relays available that will push right onto the exsisting terminals of the compressor (1/4 HP-Verticle Tecumseh-pancake type I assume) have you tried to copy down your compressors actual part no. off of it's metal tag? (on the compressor itself) & see if your local refrigeration guy can cross-reference it to the one I use most often is as follows (Tecumseh compressor model no.)  AEA3430AXA
if not go online over to Tecumseh ....
http://www.tpc-nacg.com/homepage.htm

and don't forget our sites handy-dandy suppliers section for Global compressors! (shameless plug  '> )

JohnieG,
Thanks for the reply.  I tryed a different supplier and they had the solid-state start/run relay that you mentioned.  Got it installed and the compressor started right up, Progress!  After a minute the overload kicked in and it shut down  '> .   Before it shut off the evaporator had started to cool down nicely.  I checked the resistence on the compressor, 12 ohms start and 2 ohms run.  It is a 1/4 hp Tecumseh verticle pancake compressor.  Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Pete

[johnieG]

could be low on it's charge, if the lines are only frosting at the point where the capillary tube joins the evaporator coils, sometimes even frosting back up the capillary tube, (see photo) then this is an indication of a low charge, another question that comes to mind is does your soild-state sart/run relay have a built-in over-current protector? if so, then you shouldn't be running the circut through (in series) with the original over-current/overload breaker that was attached to the side of the compressor.

johnieg,
It's been a few days since I could get back to working on it.  All the coils on the evaporator were getting forst on them while the compressor was running.  Before installing the solid-state relay/overload unit, I removed both the old relay and "click-it" type overload.  There aren't any bends or kinks in any of the lines.  Could there be some kind of a restriction in the capillary tube or dryer?  Is there any way to check for this?  Thanks for all the help you have given so far.
Pete

[johnieG]

In order to check for restrictions & system pressure(s) you'll need to get it running again. The resistance of the windings seems within "normal" range. The next thought that comes to mind is, have you had the unit ( or the previous owner)  "topped-off" with an additional charge of R12 (or the like) ? if the system is Overcharged, this will produce an overpressure in the system, & the compressor may not have the "omph" to over come it & cycle the overload on-off. is there an add-on line tap somewhere on the suction line? if so, then this is a sign that someone has adjusted the charge, (it's generally better to have an undercharged system than an overcharged) , you may wish to try a 3-in-1 starter booster & see if it'll bump the compressor free, if not.... well, it could just be on it's last leg, if the        3-in-1 does get the compressor running again, you'll need to check the line pressure on the low side (suction line). it's the only way to be sure.  if it is overcharged, then sooner or later (especially- with an older compressor) it's going to lock-up on you.

JohnieG,
I'm glad to hear that the resistence of the windings appear to be normal.  There isn't an add on tap anywhere on the system, so it's still sealed.  I'm in the process of replacing all the wiring, the condensor fan wiring was really shot.  I saw your advice in an earlier post and got a motor from Grainger for <$20 '> .  I also saw your reply to Ace and am going to clean up the condensor coils.  While I've got it all torn apart I'm even going to paint the base plate that everything sits on (Heck if I can't get it running, it might as well look good .)  Hope to get everything back together this weekend and I'll keep you posted on what happens when I plug it back in.
Thanks again,
Pete

Finally got everything all back together.  Bad news is it kept popping the thermal overload after starting.  Then on one attempt after restarting the compressor stopped abruptly with a loud clank and shudder.  The next restart resulted in arcing and sparking and the house circuit breaking popping.  I checked the resistence between the compressor pins and the case and there is now continuity.  I'm guessing the compressor is toast.  I saw in an earlier post that a used refridgerator compressor could be installed providing the same h/p is used.  Any ideas??

[globalcompressors]

Sounds like the compressor smoked. The ohm reading you had on the start winding, 12 ohms, was too high. All the readings, common, start and run, should be within one or two of each other, around 3 or so. Any refrigeration compressor will work as long as the hp is a match and the freon compatable. If you are working with a R12 replacement, freeze12, hot shot, r414, etc., any 12 compressor will work. If you want to use R134a, you really need to use a new 134a compressor because of the higher pressures and temperatures.


Eric

Eric,
Thanks for the reply.  I checked with a used appliance shop and they had both R12 and R134a compressors available in 1/4 hp.  I'm leaning towards replacing with a 134a compressor.  Are there any other issues/considerations in switching from R12 to R134a?  Am I better off sticking with the R12?
Thanks,
Pete