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Author Topic: soldering aluminum  (Read 8980 times)
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Larry
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« Reply #10 on: June 21, 2010, 07:22:07 am »

Allright I have done a little web surfing and I narrowed it down to two epoxys that should work.  Just wondering if anyone has used either of them.

Red epoxy - two part epoxy that turns red when mixed.  Can cure in by itself in two days or can be cured by using a heat gun.  The curing is complete when the epoxy turns gold.  Temperature range is -100F to 300F, bursting strength 6,000 PSI.

The other one is:

LA-CO - Heat Seal Stick.  A green pre mixed epoxy that is applied when the coil is warmed by a heat gun.  It melts on the area like a warm crayon.  Temperature up t 350F, pressure 450 PSI.

I have read great reviews on both products from different forums.

The evaporator pressures are extremly low.  The highest pressure would be when the machine is off.  The pressures will equalize and they will be what R-12 is at room temperature.  So pressure is not a factor.

Leonard I also found the product that you were talking about, but in the forums that I read, a few people heard of it but never tried it.  It seems like some pretty amazing stuff.

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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #11 on: June 21, 2010, 10:42:59 am »

JOHNNY MAYS HERE TO TELL YOU ABOUT MIRACLE PUTTY>> MIRACLE PUTTY IS AMAZING AND WILL STICK TO ANYTHING,, NEED TO FIX A REFRIDGERATION LINE IN YOUR VINTAGE 1950'S ICE CREAM VENDOR.. MIRACLE PUTTY WILL DO THE TRICK, NEED TO MEND A BROKEN WING ON YOUR 747 AIRLINER... MIRACLE PUTTY WILL GET IT DONE.. GOT A CRACK IN YOUR GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE.. MIRACLE PUTTY...

YOU GET THE DRIFT...Huh?

JUST A SUGGESTION? biggrin
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Larry
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« Reply #12 on: June 21, 2010, 12:48:26 pm »

I actually had a friend that bought that product and gave me a tube.  I tried it on numerous things at work, and they all failed.  It has to be a product that works!!!

I ended up buying the red epoxy.  Well see what happens.  I'll try to use it soon.  I have a previous appointment with the wifes dryer afterwork.
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Larry
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« Reply #13 on: June 28, 2010, 07:11:21 am »

Well, I took the coil into a welder and he would not touch it.  He was afraid that the leak would seap out of the sides afterwards.  He suggested a radator guy so they can dip it and then weld it.

The radiator guy said that he wasn't interseted in fooling with it either.  He recommeneded epoxy, and suggested that after I clened the area for an hour, to clean it some more.  Plus, most epoxies state that you can use the coil right away.  His advice was to leave it set overnight.

So I cleaned the coil with a wire brush,scotch brite, sandpaper, acetone, and the finally my Dremel with a wire wheel.  I leak checked it and all tha cleaning must have fused the leak.  It didn't leak after that.  So I recleaned all the soap off, heated, scuffed, and re-acetoned (a new word I made up) the coil, like the epoxy instructions recommended.  I ended up using the red epoxy and a heat gun.  Plus I put the coil in a vacuum so if there was a slight leak it would hopefully draw some material in the pinhole and plug it.

I followed the directions and it said that it was cured after the epoxy turns gold.  Just for a referance, it is red, then it turns purple, then gold.  Anyway, it is cured when it is gold.  So I took the radiators guys advice and let it set over night.  Pressure tested, vacuumed, and charged the coil.  It works great. 

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bubba
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« Reply #14 on: June 28, 2010, 10:48:15 am »

Excellent.. Glad to hear there was some way to save the coil... hopefully it will hold up..
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