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pepsi-perk
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« Reply #10 on: April 05, 2010, 07:48:37 pm » |
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Thanks for the code...I am thinking that is some pricey stuff. Anyone ever do their own spraying with not so expensive paint? I have several machines but want to slick up my little square top V56 to set by the pool for the parties.
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scriptx
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Posts: 22
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« Reply #11 on: April 24, 2010, 01:22:09 pm » |
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I am a little further in the project. I traded my bottle stack for a can stack (thanks bubba!). It took a while to get the stack apart and I am scratching my head trying to figure out what do with the can stack's mechanism to push out the cans. All the moving parts are riveted together. I may have them powder coated knowing that it won't be an even covering. Plus, I think some of those rivets would have to be fabricated. Other than those, I have parts in for plating and the interior parts in for powder coating.
Here are some pictures of the nearly complete front door. All the parts inside the coin door were sanded, cleaned, primed and painted with hammertone. Had I know that the powder coating would be so cheap I would have had them powder coated.
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Pat Pixley
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« Reply #12 on: April 25, 2010, 06:01:30 pm » |
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Looks good so far keep up the good work.  |
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scriptx
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« Reply #13 on: June 17, 2010, 08:42:02 pm » |
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Well, I apologize for the delay in posting... Divorce is getting in the way of normal life! Anyway, I am pretty much done. However, I wanted to post my findings so others could avoid the traps I fell into...
1. If it is zinc plated and an interior part, don't nickel plate it. The nickel plating adds a lot of thickness and when you are dealing with the can stack and so on, prepare to break out your grinder....
2. The new compressors are MUCH louder than the original compressors. I may end up refurbing the original and putting it in and ditching this one from global. Its the fan that is loud, but replacing the fan will void the warranty. Save some bucks, if the original works, clean 'er up and put it in. For now, I will sound proof the bottom cabinet to reduce some of the additional noise. Just have to figure out what to use to do this.
3. The biggest lesson, avoid using foam insulation. First, it is an absolute pain to cut and fit. Then you have to fill the gaps with low expansion foam and aluminum tape all the seams. In other words, TIME consuming. Second, I was hoping to get an hour between the compressor turning on, I get a consistent 15 minutes between with 8 minutes on in a 75 degree house. Less than it was, but more than I wanted. Most of the heat loss in this machine is in the front inch of the machine where there is a metal lip not covered by insulation. I plan to take it apart this winter and stuff that area with Aerogel felt. It is about R12 per inch. There is a guy summit Everest with an Aerogel suit a few millimeters thick (and nothing else) and the biggest worry is overheating.
4. If you want to use LED for the door light, the little night light LED's at Lowe's are useless. I think you need about an 8 watt equivalent. I haven't found one yet....
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scriptx
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« Reply #14 on: June 17, 2010, 08:44:37 pm » |
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Pics
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scriptx
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« Reply #15 on: June 17, 2010, 08:45:38 pm » |
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Even more pics....
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bubba
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« Reply #16 on: June 17, 2010, 09:41:30 pm » |
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Nice job.. sorry about the divorce, but the machine looks great!
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Ken
V-63 -Bottles
2-Cavalier USS-64
VMC ST56B Royal Crown - being built
Vendo HA56C Coke
2-V63C DP
V63C Coke
U-Select-It 5cent candybar machine
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Alligator
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Posts: 27
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« Reply #17 on: July 05, 2014, 05:31:37 pm » |
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Very awesome restoration!!!  |
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« Last Edit: July 07, 2014, 09:30:38 pm by Alligator »
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Jared
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« Reply #18 on: July 06, 2014, 07:09:36 pm » |
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great job looks great
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Creighton
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« Reply #19 on: July 07, 2014, 03:36:29 am » |
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Interesting a 4 year old post surfaces. Still good info.
Thanks!
Creighton
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