Look what followed me home

[collecture]

Sounds like the mech needs a good cleaning and lubing - possibly a new crank handle return spring.

NEVER use any oil or lubricants on a slug rejector - it is meant to operate clean and dry.

If you put it through the dishwasher, remove the cover plate (screw and nut) and prop the scavenger plate open. I'd remove it before the drying cycle.
When you get it out, make sure it is completely dried - use compressed air (better) or a hair dryer.
Lastly, remove the nickel cradle and oversized gauge from their posts and reem them with some pipe cleaner with a little Brasso on it several times until they come clean like a gun barrel. Also wrap the pipe cleaner around the posts and clean them up too.

[Cameron]

Success

I sprayed the scavenger lever with plenty of WD40 and worked it until it started functioning properly.

The slug rejector is accepting both nickels and dimes about 75% of the time. I'm slowly getting this machine back to life.

Is there an easy way to remove the surface rust from the slug rejector. I don't know if running it through the dishwasher would help. Also the screws and wire parts are also rusted up. Are these parts easy to find and replace?

[Cameron]

Update:

Ok, I have spent the last day and a half learning how to disassemble my Vendo 39. I have taken the door completely apart, including the coin mech and insulation. Wow, I could have never imagined there was so much to disassembling one these machines . The hardest part so far has been removing the rusted screws and the black tar-like sealant . I have all of the small parts and screws separated into many separate baggies.

I'm to the point of removing the vending drum. I'm not sure how to go about removing it. Almost everything up to this point has consisted of unscrewing. I don't want to mess up the counterweight system. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to remove the drum?

I am also having trouble removing the plate assembly (slug regector cover) and coin return tray (there are no screws, do I just drill it out?)  

Any advise will be greatly appreciated!

[SIGNGUY]

The drum simply comes off, when your remove a couple C style clips on the shaft.. You'll have to reset the counter weight racheting gear when reasembly, so don't worry too much about that..

the rivets must be drilled out, then when you go to replace simple re-rivit them back on... just use a bit a hair smaller than the shaft of the rivet and it will come off... jsut be carefull not to damage the cup..

Good luck!

[MoonDawg]

       When removing the drum you will need to turn it counterclockwise with your left hand while you lift to clear the locking fingers in the back with the right hand.

[Cameron]

Thank you Signguy and MoonDawg 

I was able to remove the drum, no problem. The machine is finally completely disassembled .

There is significant rust at the bottom of the cooling compartment. I'm not sure if I should have this area removed and replaced or if it can be bead-blasted and repainted.

Here are some photos of the disassembly process.

[RC kid]

If it is bead blasted you will be better able to see the full extent of the damage. This could make a difference between a large patch panel and a small one. Also, POR-15 is an excellent product for nutrualizing rust.

[mygoose101]

Ah, you're bringing back memories. The first machine I restored was a Vendo 39. Honestly, I was scared to death once I took off the first screw. Ask Moondawg, he'll tell you all about it. The "what the hell I'm I doing" voices started in the back of my head. After that, it does get easier. You'll be fine. You'll then graduate to a VMC 33, or perhaps a 27, maybe even a Slider, then in a few years, the 81. Take your time and enjoy it, it's a great ride.