Regalvanizing and rust

I just started taking my newly acquired  WB102 apart to give it a good cleaning.  I have been using vinegar and 0000 steel wool on the galvanized parts to give it some of it's shine back and this seems to work pretty good.  BUT the bottom of the cooling compartment where the drain is,  is pretty rusty.  The galvanized coating is mostly gone.  What are my options to get rid of the rust and put some sort of coating on this?
  It looks like the cooler liner,  the galvanized metal part,  comes out.  Can this be cleaned up and regalvanized?  And if I take this to be regalvanized I should do the dispensing rack and vending mech parts also.  DO I disassemble everything and take it to the galvinizing place or can they dip the whole rack?  
     I also found some rust in the compressor compartment when I removed the refrigeration system.  The rust is spotty and not very deep and only in this compartment.  The rest of the machine is clean as is the outside surface of the metal.  Should I worry about this rust?? or leave it alond since it can't be seen from the outside.  The right pic shows the rust at the bottom of the cooler box.  

Justin

[johnieG]

This is typical rust on the bottom of the liner caused by water (condensation) sitting in a puddle due to either the drain hole being plugged or the machine not being properly leveled, if it's not completly through the bottom of the liner your lucky, then the insulation is still dry & water hasn't had a chance to cause any rusting on the inside of the chassis itself  
you options range from ; A:the liner may be removed & replated (NOT hot dipped, the metal's to thin & will warp big time!) galvanized along with the other rack components, it will cost you some bucks! B: You can wire wheel the loose rust down to clean metal & use a phosphating cleaner like "metal-prep" then use a hammer tone paint like "Hammerite" or rustolium hammer tone paint, (the phosphating cleaner will allow the paint to stick to the galvanizing of the liner & not flake off) C: Have the liner lightly bead-blasted to remove the rust & plating then have it "Powder-coated" which basically uses a high temp. plastic powder sprayed onto the metal, & bakes it in an oven (~400 deg.) to make a tough coating on the liner & parts, it wears well & is quite popular (& cheaper usally than replating) D: there is also a type of "Hot sprayed" zinc  called "metalizing" than can also be sprayed onto the parts (with a special spray gun) that give the protection of regalvanizing & has the advantage of being able to build up any low spots (like the old days when they used lead to patch dents instead of bondo) & fill in pin holes with new metal (zinc) if it's available in your area.  as you can see lots of choices!  '> . as for the lower compressor section you can again wire wheel or media-blast  the loose rust, apply a sealer coating that will covert any remaining rust to black-oxide & repaint right over it, all depends on how far you want to go with the  machine with a light cosmetic restoration, or a full blown "frame off" (down to the bare chassis & every nut & bolt too) type. if the machines in as good of shape as you've discribed then I'd clean up what bug's me & live with the rest.   :'>  but cleaning it up certainly won't hurt the looks & resale value down the road ! (not to metion if the wife will let me even bring it into the house!  '> ) PS be sure to check out the "roof" of the compressor area if it's been "wetting the bed" (insulation) it's bound to rusting too! this can also be caused by a disconnected/missing drain tube too. so go over it carefully & have fun!

[Jim]

Justin,

The only thing that I could add to Johnie's suggestions is make sure the drip tube is free of any debris to ensure proper condensation removal. Otherwise, all of your efforts will be ruined in just a couple of months...

Additionally, please check to see that you have the correct email address in your CP (control panel) since I receive messages from the Discussion Areas addressed to you that are incorrect...  Thanks

Sorry about the email,  I was off by one letter.

How hard is it to find drip tubes for these things?  Mine is there but I don't know if I can get it off in one piece in order to repaint/replate.  It seems pretty brittle.  Is there someone who makes drip tubes for the machines or are they easy to find at hardware stores?

Justin

I,ve just purchased a coca cola vending machine,
made by Cavalier.   It is a Model C-55 D.

It has been completly sanded down to the bare metal.
I need to knowthe proper colors..
Doe,s anyone have a picture of one that I could get a better idea on the finish,??

It is 16" wide X 61" high X 23" deep.

It is a square top.

A color picture would be greatly appreciated.

[Jim]

Justin,

I was fortunate enough to have a flaring tool so I could make new drip tubes from copper tubing. This way I could make them just like the original. The only real difference is that mine wouldn't be soldered in; I would use a Vulkum window caulk that was indestructable after it cured. You could even put some plumbers putty around the drip tube in the condensor compartment like the old machines used to have...

[MoonDawg]

This works well. And to be safe,I slide a rubber grommet around the tube,and up snug with the bottom of the cooler, this helps to keep it from moving and breaking the  seal.
                                                                Glen