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Author Topic: Rust bucket!!!  (Read 9179 times)
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bmw90w
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« on: September 18, 2008, 08:00:12 pm »

 Well now I know why I got her for $100!! Just stripped the insulation out today and I have a lot of work to do. I dont have a welder so I am going to try to fiberglass the top and bottom. Biggest problem I have is that thin sheet in the front that the breaker strips go in front of.. You can see where it pushed through and is all rotted. I measured the thickness of the insulation after removing the liner and it was about 2 1/8in. I am tempted to use the ridgid insulation sheets at 2 inches. Anyone have any luck with that?
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Cavalier CS-96
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bmw90w
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« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2008, 08:04:56 pm »

Pictures wont load, Ill get them up asap.
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Cavalier CS-96
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Eric
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« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2008, 08:08:00 pm »

I'm gonna ask my friend who restored my cooler... I was telling him my 81 may have some
rust issues on the inside... said there is a product they use at the body shop that is a resin/glue
said you put this on like bondo put a piece of sheet metal over (gluing them together)
he said you'd rip the sheet metal before it comes apart... no welding....
might be the way to go... it dries hard so if any seeps through you can sand it.
Can you post pictures?

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Eric

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bmw90w
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« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2008, 08:48:48 pm »

I am trying but they wont load. Sounds like a good idea. If I can find some thin sheet metal, I can always just fiberglass it as well.
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Cavalier CS-96
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Tom


« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2008, 09:28:28 pm »

Send your pics to me and I'll post them - you have my email for the shelf.
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
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Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
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Tom


« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2008, 10:47:19 pm »

Here are the pics
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
sodaworks
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« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2008, 11:31:06 pm »

I would cut out the bottom pan, sand blast the area and have a new one with a front lip fabricated. I would also hire someone to weld it in as well. I always replace the bottom pans with a new one if it has cancered metal. A little more trouble but it's worth the effort.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #7 on: September 19, 2008, 10:34:36 am »

       Terry had a great idea there. A floor pan with a simple bend to act as
the front lip. If you're like me, and don't have a welder, the resin idea will
work for a long time as you probably won't still own that machine when the
rust returns.
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Glen
bmw90w
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« Reply #8 on: September 19, 2008, 08:46:55 pm »

Is that something a metal shop is going to have to make for me?
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« Reply #9 on: September 20, 2008, 01:20:13 pm »

        Yes a metal shop can make a nice clean bend. Actually since you have
belt line rust on the back and sides too, have them bend the floor pan with 4
flanges. This will give you a new replacement front lip and also give you backing
for when you fill the rust holesall around the sides.
        I advise leaving the cabinet with the metal shop so they understand your
objectives and can fit the piece in place properly.
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Glen
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