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Author Topic: glasco 50  (Read 12638 times)
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #10 on: November 06, 2007, 09:39:06 am »

Looks like a nice clean original... outside of the refridgeration problems??
did you do the light test on the seals?.. Put a battery operated light (bright lamp works best) inside, close the lids turn off lights and see if you can see any light coming out? if so there is your leak...
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2007, 11:54:44 am »

     The lower exterior tube has me concerned because of heavy frost build up.I just had the system charged and I think it may have very very slow leak where they added the valve.

      Who added the valve, your refrigeration guy? A saddle valve?
Why was it low on freon?
      Ice backing up to the compressor is a sign of an overcharge.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2007, 11:57:50 am by MoonDawg » Logged

Glen
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« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2007, 05:56:39 pm »

   The reason you are getting so much ice build up on the exterior cooling line is because the compressor runs too long.  When it shuts down, the ice will thaw in a minute or so resulting in a small amount of water (put a towel under it ).  I bet that Glen hit the nail on the head. The tube where the thermostat goes into has broken away from the liner and although the thermostat may be working, it can't get an actual reading.  Very common problem with Glasco and Ideal coolers.  I had to drill a hole in the floor of my Glasco (for wiring)- put the thermostat mounting bracket in the pre-cool area, and just have the thermostat  in the cooling cabinet itself.  Quick and inexpensive .  Not 100 % authentic, but it beats pulling the machine apart for my own use. 
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Bob
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« Reply #13 on: November 06, 2007, 06:57:19 pm »

I pulled the complete liner because all the solder joint failed on the cooling lines. They were sitting in the bottom of the tub. I reconnected them by drilling a small hole to rivet a strap to the cooling lines,The t-stat tube was fine. After a week of messing with this I figured out that the condenser is rusty and leaking on the lowest line that feeds the refrigeration coils. Next step, What size condenser do I need ?Or if I decide to go ahead and change the whole system over to  r-134 and use the existing cooling lines, What size compressor. I have a Ideal 55 that I'm restoring as well and thought about doing the same. Or for just a quick fix to resell it what size condenser?(Glasco 50). Thank for the help
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Zadd
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #14 on: November 06, 2007, 08:01:18 pm »

I pulled the complete liner because all the solder joint failed on the cooling lines. They were sitting in the bottom of the tub.

    For the record, there are no solder joints. All cooling lines were stuck to the inner liner with tar.
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Glen
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« Reply #15 on: November 06, 2007, 08:52:25 pm »

I agree to disagree When I had my liner out I could physically see where they soldered it to the liner,on each bend  of the coils and a few in the center and it was also coated with tar. Even the Ideal 55 had a few spots soldered that I had to prie loose to remove the liner and the hanger brackets where coated with tar.
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Zadd
Dr Pepper Queen Anne Bottle Machine
Dr Pepper Queen Anne Can Machine
7up Ideal 55 slider
Vendo 81D
VMC 33D
Nehi Pelco Koolie
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