Vendo 110 Bottle Door - how do you take this apart

[ZMonet]

I am working on a Vendo 110 restoration project and I have some questions that I was hoping some of the more senior members might be able to assist me with.  I'll take it step by step since I have a number of questions and I don't want to overwhelm.  My first real issue is the bottle door as it has a fair amount of rust -- both the bottom of the door (which has a small hole -- see pictures) and the handle to the door.  I thought I could take the door apart by removing the screws but I realized two things: (1) a few of the screws are rusted in; (2) the bottle door, like the rest of the machine, is framed in wood (the wood is actually in perfect shape, it is the metal that is a problem); and (3) even if I were to remove the screws, I don't see how I could take the door apart to get inside the door so that I could attach a new door handle.  I assume my only way of getting the screws removed is to dry and drill them out?  I have tried WD-40, etc. with little luck.  Also, if I do remove the screws, do I have to bend the metal to take it apart and then bend it back when I am done, or is there some easier way I'm missing?  Hopefully the pictures will make clear what my words might not.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

EDIT: The other two pictures are two big to attach.  I will try shrinking them down when I get home.

[collecture]

First you have to remove the screws on the ends (if there). I have seen some doors that do not use end screws. Then you have to remove the hinge screws (three on each) and the seven backing plate screws. Push up on the hinge side and pull out. The backing plate is screwed to the wood frame with nine screws. I have never taken one apart that did not have wood rot, so use care when pulling it out of the frame and you should have a replicable frame.
As far as removing rusty screws, I have had good luck making a slot in the screw with a Dremel cut-off wheel and then using a slotted screwdriver to remove it. Last resort is to drill it out.
Good Luck!

[ZMonet]

Thanks Collecture.  Very detailed response.  I'll give it some more effort this weekend and see what I can do.  I still can't get over how much of the machine is made of wood.

[ZMonet]

Thanks again Collecture.  I was able to with a fair amount of labor get the door apart.  Some of the machine screws I had to dremel and other I need to drill out.  Unfortunately, two of the screw heads came off in the process -- the two that were part of one of the hinges.  I'll try drilling those out as well, but at least I have it apart.  Surprisngly, the wood is in excellent shape and seemingly has no damage (isn't soft, decaying, etc.)  The problem is that I didn't realize just how much damage there was to the door until I was able to look at it from the other side.  I've attached pics…Could I succesfully bondo this area after removing all of the rust, or is this something that absolutely needs to be welded?  Thanks in advance.

[ZMonet]

more

[MoonDawg]

That end of the door has very little clearance and often scrapes when closing. You will need some sort of metal in place.
       As an option, I have a rust free 110 door for sale for $50.00

[Eric]

My two cents... Buy the door from Glen.... you'll spend more time trying to make the door..
$50 is a deal..... That one is too far gone....

[coke_and_stuff]

I do agree $50.00 is alot easier than that headache! If however you do pass on the door I have a friend who is looking for a few rustfree doors.

Joey

[johnieG]

Sad but true, this one's too far gone, unfortunatly, wood & metal = rustout.   this a very common problem with many V-110 & 6-case bottle doors of the era. the condensation is wicked up by the wood, then it turns into tanic/wood acid, which destroys the metal, and it rots the wood framing in the door frame too, which causes the hindges to sag, or even rip-out.  V-83's suffer from simular damage about the wooden framing that supports the door, which is more critical due to the extra weight a V-83 has in it's main door.

as you can see, the door handle gets it right "between the eyes" because it's the first exit for the conedsation to exit. plus it's a really cheaply made stamped-steel part that was chrome plated to begin with.

[ZMonet]

I'm not averse to purchasing a replacement door, just want to make sure this one is of no use as I'm already probably further into this machine than I should be and I know I'll be a lot further in before it is all said and done.  Anyway, here is another pic from the other side.  There is still a fair amount of metal there and I wanted to make sure I gave you guys both sides of the story (metal).