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Author Topic: Sikkens or ppg paint codes  (Read 12731 times)
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audiobeer
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« on: December 08, 2002, 09:56:24 pm »

I'm getting ready to prep my WD-5 cooler for paint. Anyone have any ideals on the paint cod for 50s red. Also when using base coat clear coat is there a lettering material that's compatible with the clearcoat sprayed over it? Thabks!
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johnieG
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« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2002, 10:36:41 pm »

I've used Centari Coke red & white on my WD12 Westinghouse and hit it with clear urathane outstanding! you have to allow any base coat & lettering paint time to cure or the clear-coat may lift the under/base-coat on the lettering, I used a clear water based plastic mastic to mask of the embossing & using an exacto knife cut the mask to form a clear plastic "stencil"
over the red base coat that after spraying the lettering (after a appropriate cure time for the Centari white) just peels right off! then you hit it with the clearcoat. & on the "have a Coke"
letters on the lid edges I used a enamel paint-marker to highlight the embossing, (it's too small to use the spray-mask method) Much easier than trying to us a brush!   I though Funtronics had some vinyl logo-lettering that goes on the top of the embossing available? wonder if you could do a base/clearcoat then apply the vinyl on top, but my concern would be having it peel up.
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Jim
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« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2002, 09:42:07 am »

I'm a user of PPG products that used to use DuPont previously. Sikkens is good paint but a little on the expensive side. Below are a list of codes I have from one of my manuals from the 40's - 50's.
Quote
DuPont: Dulux:93-24314-R Red
Glidden Speedene Auto Enamel: 9264 Red
PPG: Lavax Red: 29-303
Sherwin Williams: Kem Lustral 42: Vermilion 532, F65 R1

As far as the lettering is concerned, I'm not sure if Steve at Fun-Tronics has vinyl for all the various coolers... On that note, I'd be very leary of clear-coating over this without testing it first! One note to mention is the edge that the vinyl has will be difficult to cover as most hard edges react this way.
As for the lettering, I had the fortunate luck of finding the most awesome sign letter and I went through about 3 - 4 of them! I prefer to have the embossed letters hand lettered. Most sign letters use One Shot Lettering Paint, but I'm usure of its compatabilities with clear-coat... Easliy researched at the paint shop by asking someone.
I think the utlimate results would be yielded from base/clear with a professional hand lettered logo. If compatability allows, clear over the entire cooler after the lettering has cured!

Hopefully helpful...  ':<img:'>
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audiobeer
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« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2002, 10:33:33 pm »

Very Helpful!!! Than You very much Gentleman, I send a Pic when it's done!
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Missouri
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« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2002, 09:28:32 pm »

I've finished painting my box with Centari Coke red and  am at that point of having to paint the embossed lettering on my WD-10 and that was the one thing I was unsure of  how to do the white lettering. I thought of different ideas on making stencils, but I like the idea of creating a stencil with the water-based plastic mastic. What is the brand name and where can it be purchased?
JohnieG: thanks for the info on the fan motor parts for my WD-10. Grainger had all the parts I needed!   '<img'>
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johnieG
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« Reply #5 on: December 26, 2002, 10:23:39 pm »

Glad to help, the brand name is "Metalflake" spray mask, I got it at a local custom paint supplier/jobber shop that handles PPG & Dupont paint, trim & supplies for the body shops
& custom paint guys in the area, you mask off the area to be spayed, it applies whitish in color, then when it's cured and ready to be "stenciled" it has turned into a clear/blue tinted plastic mask that will peel off when you're done. I experimented on an old Picnic cooler's embossing (cutting the stencil out that is) before getting confident enough for the WD-12.
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Spoon-feeding Newbies since 2001...Wink
Yeah..220,221 whatever it takes.
Remember, all it needs is a shot of Freon!
The Vendo V-83 is the '59 Edsel of the coke machine world. ;p
Spray painting does NOT restore a compressor
11 is louder than 10...
"Hope" is good, but it's not an action plan.
audiobeer
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« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2009, 03:48:53 pm »

I finally sandblasted the cooler in the shop today and will start metal working it. It's going to be a test on my part to see which way the lettering is going to be done. Other than health issues in the past year I have been co-managing a body shop in my town and I have access to try a few ways on the lettering techniques. That's the reason for delay. The original post was 2002! Talk about procrasinating.  I'll post some pics along with the Sikkens code paint code.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2009, 09:36:08 pm by audiobeer » Logged

Missouri
Pat Pixley
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« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2009, 08:56:47 pm »

I would be interested it seeing what you come up with smile.
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