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Author Topic: Help with a restoration on and ideal 35 slider  (Read 8614 times)
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SIGNGUY
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« on: July 15, 2006, 04:39:20 pm »

Just picked an ideal 35 slider chest cooler yesterday at a yard sale. I was looking for a glasco 50 but this should suffice and it's smaller. Obviously needs a pretty good makeover, but have never worked on a chest cooler before. The machine cools ,but I still want to remove the refridgeration unit and clean it up and change the fan motor. HOW the heck do you get this unit out without disconnecting it from the Condensing unit that is all wrapped up inside the Box? I have noticed several screw on the inside of the box and maybe the secret will be revealed ,but haven't started wrenching yet. Looking for any tips, advice and knowledge on how to remove the cooling unit so  I can start my restoration on this little guy.
Thanks in advance!
John
PS. also looking for a coin mech for it, doesn't even have to be working just something to give it the finished look when done!
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BryanH
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« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2006, 10:23:05 pm »

John - check this thread on removing the liner from an Ideal55.  Imagine the 35 would be similar.
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Thanks, Bryan
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Eric
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« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2006, 10:51:02 pm »

Yard Sale?! Wow... Way to go! a 35 would be awesome to have.... take your time
parts will find their way to you (probably via eBay) 35s are worth some $$$ when done.
Nice Score AND it looks pretty straight and solid!
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Eric

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MoonDawg
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« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2006, 12:50:27 pm »

Find the 2 bolts holding down the compressor plate and the entire compressor will come out and swing out of the way for painting. Just be carefull to not kink the copper line.
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Glen
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« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2006, 10:46:35 pm »

Glen,
I read that suggestion in the other thread for Bryan, but with the ideal 35, the only access to the compressor is on the sides, not the front or back, therefore the unit can not be swung out as you suggested. that was my original thought if I could just get it out far enought to clean it and paint it, then slide it back in... unless I'm not seeing what you mean, thank you for the suggestions... I'll probably have to attempt to do what Bryan did? Any other ideas???
Thanks much!
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2006, 10:26:15 am »

What seems to be the problem?      Look underneath for hidden hold down bolts.
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Glen
SIGNGUY
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« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2006, 01:36:33 pm »

We'll That makes it look pretty easy now! WOW.. I was worried about bending the lines too much, but obviously it can be done!
Thank you very much for pointing that out... Out she comes tonight!
Thanks much,
John
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aspbear1
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« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2006, 05:19:26 pm »

Glen is right on with the method to take the compressor out,  just be very careful as you move the line. Taking the liner out would not solve your problem as far as the compressor goes. The liner is one of those things that is easy to get out just a few screws but a nightmare to get it back in, take it from a guy that filled his whole shop with R12.  I have a feeling the freon police are still trying to locate the cause for that hole in the ozone.Cheesy '<img'>
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2006, 09:41:19 am »

Thanks. so what does happend when R12 Escapes... Is there an odor, is it dangerous? just curios?? Not that anything has happend (yet).
Got the Compressor out and have been clening it with wire brush, will paint with rustoleum Black, tonight and put back in...
I was going to attempt the liner removal, but realized after attempting to get the breaker strips off the bottle loading door, they are all tarred in as well and after getting the top gaskets off, realized the there is a whole lotta tar, insualtion and GUNK holding the coils in place... W'ell just leave that for the next guy who wants to restore it... It gets sanded, and painted in the next few weeks and that will be the extent of my restoration.
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2006, 10:55:22 am »

Quote (SIGNGUY @ July 18 2006,7:41)
It gets sanded, and painted in the next few weeks and that will be the extent of my restoration.

We assume the power cord will be replaced, but usually the side door gasket is pretty brittle. Now is a good time to change it too.
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Glen
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