Tap on compressor line

I traded for a CSS-96J and the compressor is blowing warm air. A friend put a tap on the line and put a little R-12 in it. It seem to take a long time. But the problem is that tap has a small leak. Can I drain the system and have that hole that was tapped brazed, and put a new tap on and try to recharge it again. I would have to get a friend who knows air condtioners but not expert in coke machine compressors. I still have some R-12 but how do you tell how much your putting in? (If your coming from a drum)

[Ltransam]

Hi,Tommy

            I think you could remove the tap & braze it with no problem . '>  There should be a data plate on the compressure unit some were ? If not maybe on the Model plate.I have a CS-96D it say's R-12 - 8 Which means probley 8 oz . I have charged a couple of mine in the past (not a expert )  I allways had a little left in the can .

                              Ltransam   (Leonard )  '>

[johnieG]

Quote (tlh54 @ Aug. 14 2005,9:58)

I traded for a CSS-96J and the compressor is blowing warm air. A friend put a tap on the line and put a little R-12 in it. It seem to take a long time. But the problem is that tap has a small leak. Can I drain the system and have that hole that was tapped brazed, and put a new tap on and try to recharge it again. I would have to get a friend who knows air condtioners but not expert in coke machine compressors. I still have some R-12 but how do you tell how much your putting in? (If your coming from a drum)

Well considering that if you're going to remove the clamp-on tap-valve anyway, just braze in a new one onto the line anyway while you are at it, it won't take much longer & will give you a better seal system.

Normally, you'd be using a refrigerant scale to weigh in the proper charge listed on the manufacture plate, another method (from the old days) was to use a measured charge, that was a clear cylinder with markings on it (like a laboratory beaker) to measure in the correct volume of liquid refrigerant, but assuming you don't have access to either (although I'd think your friend would..or should anyway) once you get the new valve brazed onto the line, & the system pulled into a vacumm, with your  buddys) gauges to the line & watch the suction side pressure (with the compressor running ONCE you get a small charge into the system FIRST, you should never run a compressor in a system under vaccum, ie:empty) untill it gets to the proper reading for the refrigerant used, averages are between 16"-20" Hg on the low side of the evaporator, you refrig' friend should have the proper charts), in general if you  charge too low, it will ice up the 'cap tube, back towards the compressor, too high of a charge will put a strain on the compressor & give higher cabinet temps, (not cold enough) &cause compressor failure. proceed with form here with expert advise, consult perhaps with Eric at Global Compressors..as you can see there is a lot to consider.

[BrianB]

Tommy, first off, welcome to SMC!! Now, on too your problem!

Removing the tap valve is the first step. Instead of soldering the leak/hole, install a Schrader "T" union valve.

By installing another tap valve, you run the risk of developing leak by at some point. Tap valves are notorious for leaking. I t might even be a super slow leak like 1/10th of a pound per YEAR! barely noticeable untill a few years down the road and BLAMO! no more cold soda pop's/adult bev's.

The Schrader "T" union valve is really easy to install. All you have to do is cut the copper line around the place where the old tap valve was (about 2 inches worth) and solder in your new "T" union valve. Make sure to properly prep the tubing by cleaning/fluxing. Eric from Global Compressors reccomends that after applying the flux, let it sit for 5 minutes prior to applying heat.

Once the valve is installed, remove the cap and make sure that the valve is seated all the way. A lot of the valves have caps that have a small protrusion with a notch cut in it to be used as a valve stem tool for tightening/loosening.

You should also replace the old drier while you are at it. Having to cut once then waste some R-12 and have to cut again sucks! Wonder how I know....... '>

The next step is to vacuum down the system using an a/c vacuum pump and a set of gauges. This is probably a good step to include your buddy with the A/C experience. The system must be taken down to at least 29 inches of mercury. Let the pump run for about 30 minutes then isolate the system so that what you see on the gauges is what the system is holding at. If after about 15 minutes or so, the gauges still read the same, you are ready to fill.

Just a note: I have in the past just to make myself feel a bit better left the gauges on a system for over 8 hours just to make darn sure it was holding properly, you can never leave them on to long)

When it comes to filling. The only accurate way to make sure you get the specified amount of coolant (R-12) in your system is by using an scale and "weighing it in" Your buddy with the A/C knowledge should be able to hook you up in this area too.

Let us know how things turn out or if you need any additional help! Here's a pic of what the "T" valve looks like:

[BrianB]

Let's try that picture again!

[BrianB]

Looks like Mr. G beat me to the punch!

Thanks for everybody's help on my refrigeration problem.

                Tommy

[BrianB]

No problem, Tommy. And like I mentioned before, if you need any other assistance/help with this or another problem, give us a shout! Everybody here is like a great big family and really willing to help out.

Let us know what the outcome is with your refrigeration deck! (and take some pictures too!)

[Kevin C]

Hello

Let your AC buddy do this & save yourself a headache!  This should not be tried by someone who is untrained.

Kevin