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Author Topic: Need help with door liner  (Read 6998 times)
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jasmine64
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« on: May 09, 2005, 04:46:35 pm »

Ok, I'm preparing to rewire the door on my vendo 56 after the damage caused weekend before last.  

I've removed the clips that are attached to the door liner (just under the seal). How do I proceed and what do i need to look for before proceeding?

What about the insulation inside? How to deal with that. What am I going to find once I get in there?

(I will post pics as I go, for further reference for myself and all you guys.)
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Marsha

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sodaworks
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« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2005, 10:33:59 pm »

I would check the plastic liner for cracks, if you find any I would super glue the cracks closed. Strip all the old insulation and replace with new insulation. I would replace the main cabinet gasket as well. If you decide to do this you can order it from The soda jerk works or funtronics. You will have to cut the ends at a 45 degree angle and super glue the pieces together. A new gasket improves the looks of an old machine.
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BrianB
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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2005, 07:33:09 am »

Jas,

One thing to remember with removing the old insulation is safety. All of the old insulation has the possibility of containing trace amounts of asbestos and most certainly contains formaldahyde.

So....make sure you wear a long sleeve shirt and rubber gloves. Also be sure to wear a respirator/very good dust mask.

Place all of the removed old insulation in plastic garbage bags and dispose of. After you get done, if you get any insulation on your skin (hands/arms/face) make sure you wash using soap and COLD, I repeat COLD water or else! If you use hot water you will open your pores and allow the fiberglass fibers to get in. Also, a shop vac is very handy to have around to suck up any dust/residue.

As to what you might find, the one problem that is common for machines of this age is corrosion/rust build up between the bottom of the liner and the shelf that seperates the liner from the refrigeration section. This has been refered to as "Beltline Rust". So, a lot of the time you'll find that once you remove the old insulation there will be a nice layer of rust that might require extensive repair/replacement of the shelf.  Hopefully you won't find any.

Good luck and keep us updated!
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jasmine64
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« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2005, 07:46:36 am »

Thanks guys, I'm starting on it this evening. Pics to follow later in the week.
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Marsha

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BryanH
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« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2005, 09:19:06 am »

Quote (VMC117BMB @ May 10 2005,6:33)
As to what you might find, the one problem that is common for machines of this age is corrosion/rust build up between the bottom of the liner and the shelf that seperates the liner from the refrigeration section. This has been refered to as "Beltline Rust". So, a lot of the time you'll find that once you remove the old insulation there will be a nice layer of rust that might require extensive repair/replacement of the shelf.  Hopefully you won't find any

Jasmine - If you do end up taking the tub out of the shell and find the beltline or bottom pan rust - you might want to try Terry's trick and coat with rubberized undercaoting after sanding / blasting as much of the rust off as you can.  I did that with mine over the weekend.  Looks messy but you won't see that area anyway and it creates a pretty nice protective coat to the old metal.
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Thanks, Bryan
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« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2005, 01:37:30 pm »

Another thought -- have for rust, Rustoleum makes a rust consolidator that you apply with a sponge applicator that is provided.  It comes in a white plastic bottle.  I used it to fix rust in the bottom of a newer machine two years ago, and it worked wonders.  After sanding all of the rust you can get to, apply the consolidator onto the area and spread thickly.  After it settles up, then you can paint with your choice of good enamel paints.  I used Rustoleum paint, which held up great for the two years we had the machine in operation outdoors at our homeowners association pool.  Bet you could also use the undercoat spray as Brian suggests, and it'd work fine also.

Good luck, be sure to post pictures and keep us informed!
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johnieG
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« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2005, 05:16:13 pm »

here's a tip for a real bullet proof tank liner, take it to a truck bed coater, you know, the guys who apply the sprayed on epoxy pickup truck bed-liners, it's waterproof, epoxy-coating will seal any pin-holes & is also available in some colors other than black, (silver & gray, brown) I'm happy with the results on the back-side of the tank liner & inside of the chassis of a V63 I'm working on. & I'm thinking, hey! hows' about a silver color for the inside instead of hammer tone paint? the tank liner cost me $75.00 to have it coated, (the outside) we'll see how it goes..
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jasmine64
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« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2005, 06:17:25 pm »

This is the liner I'll be removing.
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Marsha

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jasmine64
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« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2005, 06:19:22 pm »

I'll need to rewire the bulb socket, how or do i replace it completely.
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Marsha

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jasmine64
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« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2005, 06:22:52 pm »

How do i deal with this? It's the wires from the cooling unit up through the door to the coin mech, light box and coin acceptor and dispensor light.
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Marsha

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