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Author Topic: V63A not cooling repair or repace?  (Read 17409 times)
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kdog
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« Reply #30 on: April 18, 2019, 01:15:47 am »

One last thing when i pulled the cooling deck, the thermostat capillary tube was mounted to the evaporator sheet metal, but based on what i read here looks like it should be free floating in the air flow so that is what i did. Using a freezer thermometer, it is pulling down to 20 degrees in the first 4 hours or so, but not shutting off until i turn the thermostat all the way left until it clicks.  Normal, give it time, or probably bad thermostat?

When I bought my v56 squaretop, the sensor tube was coiled up, and shoved into the back bottom left corner of the fridge next to the evaporator housing.  The evaporaror was running a lot more and for a lot longer.  

However multiple manuals and photos of machines (v56 and v63) I had taken or had sent to me showed the the tube was either free floating OR mounted to the evaporator, with the tip located over the evaporator airflow for BOTH options.  Here is a thread all about it.

http://soda-machines.com/discussions/index.php/topic,22341.0.html
« Last Edit: April 18, 2019, 01:17:25 am by kdog » Logged
goob
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« Reply #31 on: April 18, 2019, 08:53:27 pm »

So my guy did the vaccume out the r-12, refilled with hot shot 2, and put a new overload breaker.  It is cooling well now, and as Jim said in another thread, baby steps.  I added some gasket material, because the door was teaked by a breakin. If that doesnt help, will follow kdog and put the thermo capillary back the way it was. If that doesnt work, then new thermo.  After running overnight the condense pan was full, so i am thinking may be the door seal, will see.  Thanks for the advice!
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goob
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« Reply #32 on: April 19, 2019, 11:35:13 pm »

So i have turned the thermostat all the way to the left, which should be the warmest setting, and the highest temp is around 30 degrees. Would being that cold cause excess condensation?  I put some stick on insilation on the case so the dorr seals pretty tight now.  The door was teaked by an attepted break in. Also attaching the thermo capillary helped stabilize the temp, not bouncing aout 20 to 30 degrees. The condense pan fills about half way in about 12 hours
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #33 on: April 20, 2019, 11:02:13 am »

So i have turned the thermostat all the way to the left, which should be the warmest setting, and the highest temp is around 30 degrees.

        Turning the dial all the way to the left should switch the machine off!
   
        The contacts may be stuck open so for now whack it a few times with the handle of a screwdriver for a temporary fix, then order a new one.

       
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Glen
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« Reply #34 on: April 20, 2019, 11:26:16 am »

Sorry was not clear, yea all the way left, it clicks and shuts off, all the way left without turning off keeps it around 30 according to my cheap fridge thermometer.  Will order new one, thanks
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goob
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« Reply #35 on: April 24, 2019, 07:31:11 pm »

So before I order a new thermostat, is one better than the other, contact or non contact.  Mine appears to be contact, but the warmest it goes is about 32 degrees. Ok for beer but am afraid I might freeze pop.  Thanks
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goob
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« Reply #36 on: April 25, 2020, 06:36:48 pm »

Well got a year out of that recharge and it sprung a leak, dang it.  Am thinking about getting a new compressor deck from Global.  Anyone have experience with  them?
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Jim
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« Reply #37 on: April 26, 2020, 07:30:12 am »

I had Eric build us one for an V-81 a few years ago and was pleased; however, he is a little pricey compared a few others, so you might shop around...
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My six cents,

Jim

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