Replacing fried electronics

Be careful with that dangerous wiring.

We don't want you to become a real skeleton man!

[Skeleton Man]

Quote (Markito @ April 18 2005,1:23)

Be careful with that dangerous wiring. We don't want you to become a real skeleton man!

I'm originaly from "down under" with 240V mains.. 110V here doesn't bite as hard..

I do intend replacing the dangerous wiring, but I need the jones plug & socket, and the right colored wires.

Put simply, it's a mess..  some of the wires have 2 or 3 (poorly soldered) joins, using a different colored wire each join, and wrapped in electrical tape..


My plan for electricals:

1) Take out all existing wiring to the front (easy enough, it's all part of one big wiring loom)

2) Replace the above with new wires.

3) Put a jones socket on the end to keep the wires together neatly (and safely). Also mount the vend relay neatly next to the coinmech (currently hanging loose).

4) Re-wire the dashboard (flavour buttons).

Should I re-wire and get the machine running first, or strip it down, clean & pain, and *then* re-wire ?

[Skeleton Man]

Update:

Replaced the zener in the coinmech: still dead (CREM clicked, that's it).

After putting coins through a few times it just went bang and blew the fuse (logic board, not mains). I know I put the diode in the right way, and it wasn't harmed when the fuse went either..

I disconnected the coin-mech and put the free vend switch in: success !!  My problem with the solenoids was obviously just from hard wiring the relay coz I didn't have a switch..

With the free vend switch it runs almost perfectly.. only small issue I have is that the flap on the can chute sticks occasionaly..

I couldn't find a capacitor suitable for the time delay circuit, but it appears not to need it, so I dunno why it was put there..

Last but not least: Where can I buy the bulbs for the flavour/correct change lights ? I have tried: Canadian Tire, Home Hardware and Radio Shack.. nothing even close !

Thanks again for your help..

[johnieG]

In regards to the coinmech's problem, the CREMS working is a good sign, but it only means that the A.C. side is functional at this point. if the fuse-link blew then try replacing the capapacitor next to the big power resister, anything between 100-200 ufd (microfarad) (not any bigger, the zener won't be able to handle the charging current),rated at 16volts or higher should do, sounds like you've replaced the zener correctly, but if the Cap' is dried up, it'll draw too much current itself & pop the fuse-link & even if it didn't pop the fuse-link, your CMOS circut wouldn't function properly (too much A.C. ripple in the output voltage) & as for the replacement lamps for your flavor buttons, try Lowes or Homedepot, or Menards, its just an indicator lamp, 7-10 watt/120volts, candalbra base (same base as a standard night-light, nothing higher than 10 watts though, or the bulbs will melt the plastic...right then, have at it!  '>

[Skeleton Man]

I'm gonna buy a new coin mech I think.. (eBay) that way it will accept dollar coins.. and apparantly can be upgraded to take $2 coins.. (how I don't know)

As for the bulbs, they aren't candalabra base, as they clip in, and don't screw in.. I will try those places you suggested tho..

[Skeleton Man]

Thought I'd post some pics of the Vend Mechanism:







I noticed when you load the machine, the cans build up quite a bit of momentum.. I had a couple burst because they fly through there like a rollercoaster !  (maybe I'm loading it wrong.. I just assumed you could only put cans in from the very top and let them roll down)

What is the pull out wire rack for ? sitting a case of pop on while you load it ?

As you can see, the inside needs a clean.. but I have no way of moving the machine (don't own a truck) so I guess I'll have to take it apart and clean bit by bit...

[loman4ec]

If you stick your hand in the rack to stop the cans before hitting the bottom it will prevent the explosion. I had the same problem. If you can get the machine outside you can rent a powerwasher from a tool rental store or just break down and buy one, and clean the machine in your driveway. I just bought a cheep electric powerwasher from Meijer. It is a 1500psi and it works great. I have found all kinds of uses for it. I paid only $65 for it. What a bargin. It will only take a few car washes to pay that off. And yes the thing that pulls out of the rack is to hold the case of soda you are loading into the machine.

[Skeleton Man]

I've stripped the machine down, removing vend mechanism and can racks, not sure about removing the refrigeration unit though..



Can I seperate the two parts ? (there's a big radiator-like thing with a fan under the machine, and a smaller looking radiator inside the machine)

It looks like I can remove the liner with a couple of screws.. is this a good idea for cleaning it ? (moving the whole machine is difficult because it's in a cramped spot and there's a 1ft step to get past..)

If I put the thermostat on the highest setting, it only just gets the cans cold enough. Anything less and you can still hear a fan, but it doesn't cool..

I did something very stupid today: let the contacts on the vend relay touch the door.. (little spark)  As a result it's stopped vending.. first the relay would lock in but it wouldn't vend.. and now the relay won't lock in.. (clicks in, but clicks out again as soon as you release the free vend switch)..   I'll check the connections to the vend solenoids and see if I can work out what's up..

[Creighton]

I can help a little. The compressor assembly is all one unit. You don't want to crimp or bend the compressor lines. To remove get a helper and lift both parts out at once. Course once out you need someplace to put it. Before removing build a stand to support both parts. Eric at Global Compressors will do a great restoration.
Creighton

[johnieG]

Hate to be a nanny, but please don't work on the machine with the power on, if you are just removing assemblies for cleaning, unplug the machine. safety first!

the whole refrigeration unit may be removed as one assembly by unscrewing the top evaporator & you've already removed the copper line guard I see, now unbolt the 7/16" bolt that should be about front & center of the compressor's mounting plate, the bottom section hen can be slid forward & up over the lip of the chassis, note that the upper section will scoot forward as you take up the slack in the copper lines, so keep one hand on it as you continue to slide the compressor assy. out of the base carefully so that you don't crimp, or crush a line ( don't need a leak at this point!) they are rather flexible, but won't take kindly to a sharp bend...just ease the whole assy. out. I like to use a piece of plywood to rest the top section on as I get the heavier bottom-section out of the machine, so it doesn't fall forward & smack you , or the pavement! '>

now you're ready to remove the the liner if you like, but beware of the fact that if when you do, if the insulation is stuck to the liner's inside surface due to rust,(& it usually is) you need to replace it...& don't forget to remove the drain-tube from it's nipple. NOTE * all though it technically is fiberglass-wool, the old stuff (insulation) may contain asbestos, so wear a particle filter (face-mask)for your lung protection & gloves & a long sleeve shirt as well...