Glascock Standard Resto

[Tulsa Time]

Figured that it was time to start a new thread in this section since I pulled the trigger and this project officially started yesterday.  Call me crazy--I'm blaming it on just being bored and wanting a Winter project.  I did a resto on one of these back in the 1980's and I guess it never lost its place in my heart . . .

This one is essentially a skeleton and is going to require a good bit of work--frame straightening, blasting, painting, hardware, signs, cap catcher, etc.  The liner is embossed "30" which I believe means that it was made in 1930.  It's a little odd as it doesn't have or look like it ever had casters, so that will be one of my first challenges since there isn't a 'bolt-on' option and will be a necessity.  I seem to recall that casters may have been an option originally, though all the ones shown in the August,1931 Coca-Cola Bottler ad show them on all models with no indication of any up-charge.

I picked some new hinges and handles at Ace today to start accumulating components.  Is anyone aware of any other sources for things like signs and cap catchers besides Fun-Tronics?  I've searched quite a bit on the net and it appears that they have the corner on this market--maybe because no one cares about these??!   

If anyone has done one of these and has any advice they would like to pass along I'd certainly appreciate it.  I'll try to post pics as I go along with it, again if anyone cares, lol!

[Eric]

Fun-Tronics is a great source.. they are collectors themselves and take a lot of pride in their products... You could also try getting parts made locally
by a fabricator.. I've had a few pieces done like that myself.. but it is pricey...
Post pictures on what you are needing or put together a list ... you may find a collector here that has the part you need.
Never know... Good Luck and welcome to the site.... great folks on here.

Again post pictures... so we know for sure what you're needing/doing.

[Tulsa Time]

Thanks for the reply Eric.  I had to re-educate myself on posting/hosting, figuring out my Photobucket password, etc.

Here are the pics of my sow's ear.








Note that it's the ultra-rare slide top model--who knew?!   




Even the tag needs love . . .


I'm guessing that I'll need to have a 'sleeve' welded into each corner to accommodate the shaft on a wheel assembly.


Need signs and a cap catcher, as well as any suggestions anyone may have on insulation, what to do/not do, etc.  I guess now I know why I kept that old MIB Coke Starr opener all these years.   

Thanks in advance!

[Eric]

Well.. you've got some good parts and some rough parts... as far as signs I don't know of anyone who makes those... Best bet there would be to have some metal sheeting cut
to size then paint red and have decals made or find someone/small company who does silk screening and see if they are able to screen onto metal... I've also seen a cooler to where the
guy had a friend make signs by printing onto a huge piece of vinyl decal (car wrap type) then wrapped the sheet metal with it and once it was slid into place it looked awesome.
I don't know anything about these coolers but looks like you'd almost have to make a wooden frame or something to help hold the tub in place as well as supporting panel signs
from the back.

Going to be a project but look forward in seeing the process and final project... if you have images of the panels and what they looked like please post.. I would like to see how
difficult they would be to recreate.

[Tulsa Time]

I believe that all the original panels looked like these http://soda-machines.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=153&Itemid=14 and the letting is raised.  Fun-tronics makes what looks like a good repro for $230/set (see here http://www.fun-tronicsllc.com/index.php?crn=352&rn=1320&action=show_detail).

I'm in the promotional products business and talked to my screen-printer about it, but they only do textiles--even though he once made a set of screens to re-do the sides of a KISS pinball machine . . . He didn't know of anyone locally that might be able to do it cost-effectively. 

Coke made replacement panels later in the 30's that looked like this:



I was lucky enough back in the 80's to get a NOS set that came out of a warehouse find for the resto I did back then.  I can't imagine what those would cost today IF they could be found.  This style would be the most economical to reproduce if possible.  I know a guy who has a local sign shop, but he's a collector as well so I can't imagine it being cheap . . .

[Eric]

I think Fun-Tronics is your best bet... 4 signs ready to go...  no hunting, cutting and guessing what they'll look like.
And I hope that someone that has restored one of these will chime in on what you'll need to support the tub and signage.

Keep the pics coming and good luck!

[Tulsa Time]

Yeah, the Fun-tronics signs are the easy solution, just wish they were a little cheaper as they will be the biggest expense of the restoration. 

These originally had a thick, rigid, 'box' made out of some type of black insulating material that sat inside the frame and the liner fit inside it.  I'm thinking of making a plywood box out of something like 1/2" plywood and lining it with insulating board to fill in the gap between it and the liner. 

[Eric]

Be hard to find 4 new signs that are metal for less... I bet finding someone to recreate the signs then finding someone to screen just 4 signs would cost more.
Sounds like you have a plan as far as the framing goes... the 30 stamped into the tub.. I guess that's the year? This will be a nice save.
So get going!

[Tulsa Time]

I am, I am, lol!  I bought some more hardware this morning since I apparently couldn't count yesterday . . .

I believe I mentioned restoring it as the 'all-weather' version, which was galvanized versus Morocco green.  I've never had anything galvanized so I don't have any idea what it would cost to have it dipped?  My cheap alternative would be using the hammered-finish Krylon but I doubt that it would hold up as well.  I collect/refurbish Hasty Bake grills and have gotten pretty good with a spray can.  There are some minor holes in the lids that need patched and I know that I can use some JB Weld or even Bondo and cover them with paint, but don't know how the galvanizing process would affect any repairs using one of these products--??  Maybe someone will wonder along here and chime in 

[Eric]

Galvanizing around here requires it going through a cleaning process... the process hear they use a type of acid dip which will eat away any pot metal learned that the hard way after having
some parts to a 39 dipped the latch that goes through the main door has a pot metal housing.... Didn't make it through
so anyway the JB Weld may not do well either You could find someone to spot weld it... then powder coat the thing in a hammered finish

[Tulsa Time]

Thanks for that info, that certainly helps in the decision-making process.  I think I'm going to go cheap and try it with the Krylon first.  If I don't like it I can always redo it again.  My goal is to have a cool piece to use, not sit in a museum so it doesn't have to be perfect. 

Just talked to a buddy who can sandblast it at his place for me for free so I need to start disassembly.  Better start by getting the Band-aids and peroxide rounded up--I haven't given any blood to this project yet and it doesn't technically qualify as one of my jobs yet . . . 

[Tulsa Time]

Well, it was a hard-fought battle that started yesterday but I finally won this morning.  Many of the old bolts didn't go down without a fight.  There were quite a few that had been replaced at some point and they proved to be more difficult than the originals for whatever reason.  



I was in need of some inspiration and was shocked how easily this cleaned up using some Simple Green and Scotch Brite pad.

[Tulsa Time]

Straightening the frame went surprisingly well, though it was a bit time consuming.  I have a weed burner that connects to a propane tank so I used it to heat up the steel, and pounded it all back into place with a rubber mallet and some wood blocks.  The only problems are the nice burns I'm sporting on two fingers now . . .    The steel on these is pretty thin so I didn't get it glowing hot.  It all bent back into place pretty easily. 

Next will be setting up a lunch, hopefully next week, with some guys who work with my buddy that will be doing the sand (or whatever media they deem appropriate) blasting. 

Guess I need to get some auctions listed so I can start stashing money away to pay for my Fun-Tronics parts!

[Creighton]

Welcome to the board !!
That restore is coming along great. Thanks for the photo's.
Creighton

[Tulsa Time]

Thanks!

I pulled the Fun-tronics trigger today so I'm hopeful that will inspire me to get it together quickly.   

I've located two 1934 original replacement (red/white) long panels--from two sources no less, just wish I knew if anyone had a pair of nice end panels.  I might change directions on this if I could put a set of originals together.