Restoration for dummies

[BrianB]

When I take all of my machines apart, I just throw all of the parts into what I call the "#### Box". And then when It comes time for reassembly, I play this game called "Oops, wonder where that goes".

Seriously, my first step in taking apart a machine always starts with A LOT of pictures. I always start with baseline photos of what the machine looked like prior. I then try to photo document specific areas of damage or places that are of concern.

Go to Sam's Club/Wal Mart and buy a cubic butt ton (very scientific measurement of weight) of ziploc bags. During that same shopping trip you should also purchase a pack of Sharpie permanent markers. One other thing that I find helpful in I.D.ing parts is to use the small manila price tages that have the stringson them. I individually tag/bag all parts as I take them off.

The logical order that I have found to the complete disassembly goes something like this (for a basic square top)
#1 remove all bottle shelves
#2 remove drip tray, coin box, cap catcher and, coin mech
#3 disconnect vend switch / solenoid wires
#4 remove bottle rack
#5 remove refrigeration unit (evaporator/condensor as a functional group)
#6 Once wires from bottle stack are free and clear from main body, you are clear to remove the main door off of it's hinges
#7 Remove liner (condenstae tube comes with it)
#8 Don your coveralls (if you already haven't) safety glasses, gloves and dust mask capable of filtering out fiberglass. Remove all fiberglass insulation and place in trash bag and seal. There has been some debate and some conformation that this type of old insulation might have small amounts of asbestos in it and it definitely has formaldihyde.
#9 Inspect the interior of the main body for rust/corrosion
#10 take lots of pictures!!
#11 remove coin door from main door
#12 remove locking bar/lock from coin door
#13 remove wiring harness to include; jones plug, lighted sign switch, light ballasts, starter bases.
#14 remove lighted sign
#15 remove all main door trim and grill/decorative kick panel
#16 Take more pictures!!
#17 turn door upside down and remove door seal and door liner.
#18 put your safety gear back on and remove the fiberglass insulation from the main door.

That's a basic sequence that I use for taking a soda pop machine apart. It does however differ from model to model, even within the square top world that I'm relegated to! For me, if it looks like a screw, it gets removed and cataloged/photographed. And remember, this is the way I do it, not trying to say this is the best way.....Just my way! '>

[loman4ec]

I have also found that most screws out of these machines are nothing special and are rusty. Go to a hardware store and buy a big box of stainless #8 and #10 screws. It costs a little extra but it is well worth it and just think in 40 more years when someone goes to restore it again they will have no rusty screws and will be happy you invested the extra $20 in hardware.

[glassbottlesrule]

I second Josh on the screws.  Replace them all with stainless.I do not get into making my machine all pretty, I prefer them with the scars.  But whenever I get a new machine, I take it apart clean it real good and put back together using new screws.  I figure any old nasty screws are just going to make it rust that much faster.

[MoonDawg]

Most of our time and money goes into restoring the front door. I restore only the front door first.  Paint, chrome, glass, gaskets, handles, latches, lights, coin mech. decals .. and a lot of detail, goes into the main door.
      When completed, I can hang it on the machine and it looks nice and gives me incentive for the second phase.  Or if I found a better machine and want to quit, I can sell this machine easily (the buyer always has a friend who can paint the cabinet)
      I reccomend this to any first timer. Otherwise too much info, too much cost & too many parts to process, creates confusion, fear and then neglect.
      I've bought machines in pieces before because, quote "I took it all apart cause I was going to restore it, then ran out of time and money,"  Really, after draging his feet for 2 or 3 years he forgot how it came apart and got frustrated.  
      I say this is a learning process, "One thing at a time"

Great ideas guys, i own stock in baggies, we use them alot in the pharmacy. I used them whe i restore mt antique piano (that kicked my butt)  I think to start off with i am gonna order my hinges from funtronics tomorrow and along with the door Bob K gave me finish the log awaited assembly on the vendo.  On a plus side since our company has an account with Coca Cola, I will find out how much it will cost me to fill the Vendo.  I think a Bar-B-Q will be in order next week!  I will Post the mandatory pictures as i go along.  Feel free to offer opinions.  the only part i dread is the paint.  Justin

[sodaworks]

Justin,
 I am currently using the 3 1/2" rolled insulation. I know some restorers are using the board type but I prefer the roll. As far as paint, when I use a base coat-clear coat, I normally shoot on 4 coats of clear. Block sand with 1500 and cut and buff. I also found substituting 10-15% acetone for reducer makes the clear more glossy.

[Eric]

Wow...asbestos and formaldihyde....That doesn't sound good I just gutted my 81 this past Saturday!
I wore a cheap mask but no gloves and did it in my basement... So I'm sure I breathed a little
The insulation wasn't too messy and I already set it out and has been hauled off with the rest of the trash...
How bad was the stuff in the insulation... I don't want to freak but I have small kids but they aren't
allowed in the basement...

Eric

[sodaworks]

Eric,
 I just stripped down a early model 81 today.

[BryanH]

Quote (sodaworks @ Mar. 24 2005,8:45)

Justin,  I am currently using the 3 1/2" rolled insulation. I know some restorers are using the board type but I prefer the roll. As far as paint, when I use a base coat-clear coat, I normally shoot on 4 coats of clear. Block sand with 1500 and cut and buff. I also found substituting 10-15% acetone for reducer makes the clear more glossy.

I've been searching the forums for tips on refininshing the exterior. Terry (or anyone else) can you explain what you mean by 'cutting'?  Also is 'block sanding' just hand sanding with a block?  Would an orbital sander with the same grit paper be too harsh?  Is this better, worse or no different from wet sanding with the same grit paper?

Thanks in advance

[MoonDawg]

Its the process of smoothing out the finish. When paint first lands on the surface, it has a texture like an  "orange peel".   Wet sanding (cutting) then buffing, cuts down the high spots and gives the finished surface a better shine