Restoration for dummies

[Creighton]

Hi Bryan,
I can help a little. Yes block sanding is just using fine grit sandpaper with a block or hard rubber holder to get all flat surfaces smooth and level as possible. The orbital will dig in and leave depressions. Best used to remove old paint around dents and such.

Glad you asked the "cutting" is a term I don't understand as well. Guessing buffing out stage but really have no idea.
Thanks!
Creighton

[Creighton]

Thanks for the info Glen!!
Creighton

[MoonDawg]

Its the process of smoothing out the finish. Paint or clearcoat first lands on the surface with a texture like an  "orange peel".   Wet sanding (cutting) cuts down the high spots (and also gives us a chance to sand down any dust specks or bugs that floated onto our work when it was wet). When sanded smooth with 600 to 1500 grit sandpaper, the high speed buffer will then polish the clearcoat to a level and mirror finish.
   (Repeat as necessary)

[Creighton]

Glen,
Think we were both typing at the same time :-) Thanks for the great info!!
Creighton

[BryanH]

First of all - thanks for all the info.  I'm getting closer to understanding what I need to do.

So Terry's method (as he posted it) is to block sand with 1500 grit  , then cut (wet-sand) and then buff.  

Is wet-sanding done by hand also?  and with the same grit paper as block sanding or should you move to a finer grit?

Also sounds like both block sanding and cutting should be done light pressure so as to only hit the high points.

Buffing is done with a tool (ie not by hand).  Do you use a rubbing compound or just a soft buffing head on the tool?

[Creighton]

Bryan,
The smart ones will correct but yes wet sanding is done by hand and use a very fine grit and lots of water. The pressure is a learned skill and if too much is applied it is back to the paint booth. All surfaces should be wet sanded before buffing (not just the high spots).

I'm not a fan of power buffers, prefer hand buffing going with the contours of the surface. Please note this sharing of questionable info is from the days of getting cars restored. Wiser souls will contribute.
Creighton

[sodaworks]

hartlenb,
  I cut (wet sand/block) with 1500 grit. I then use my variable speed hand held buffer/polisher to do the rest. I first use a sheepskin pad with a cutting compound (fast cut), then I use two different foam pads (different fineness) for polishing with a 3M polishing compound. Then I use a third foam pad with a 3M hand polishing glaze to bring the paint to a mirror finish. If you decide to use a hand held buffer/polisher be careful around edges/corners so that you catch an edge or burn through the paint. Let me know if you need more info. on the compounds,pads and buffer speeds. It sounds more complicated than it really is.

[BryanH]

As you can tell, I've never done this before.  I now understand the steps that need to be accomplished.  Now I'm looking for help on technique or methods behind the steps.  The simplest explanation for wetsanding that I found on the web came from http://www.type2.com/library/body/saprep.htm.   Would anyone add or change anything to this description (other than the reference to a car)?

Quote

Soak the paper in a bucket, then start sanding along contours in 1 direction only (unlike when blocking down filler with cross hatch). Do the entire car, then go to a finer 1000, then to 1500 grit. As you sand you frequently dunk your paper and block in water and use a sponge or a squirt bottle or a hose to keep rinsing off the fine sanding debris. Always keep the surface flooded and never let buildup gather on the paper (this is why you do it wet instead of dry, and you change paper frequently).

Does the process change if you use a single stage paint rather than basecoat / clearcoat applications?

Quote (sodaworks @ May 05 2005,6:17)

hartlenb, .... Let me know if you need more info. on the compounds,pads and buffer speeds. It sounds more complicated than it really is.

Terry I'll take whatever info / details you're willing to share.  I'm hoping to get out this weekend to buy tools, accessories and supplies.

[sodaworks]

Heya Bryan,
  Here's the info. on the buffing equipt. and supplies that I use. These really work well for me.
Buffer/polisher-
Hitachi model #SP18VA Variable speed control. Picked mine up at Home depot.
Pads-
Schlegel Buffs products.
1st.- 9" sheepskin, use on slow speed (2 on speed controller).
2nd.- 9" Green- cut/polish pad #2003 (3-4 on speed controller).
3rd.- 9" Blue- soft polish pad #2004 (5-6 on speed controller).
4th.- 9" White- finish pad #2005 (5-6 on speed controller).
I also have a set in 3" diameter for tight spots.
Compounds-
1st.- EZ1- Clean cut, use only on sheepskin pad.
2nd.- 3M- Foam polishing pad glaze #05995, use on green pad.
3rd.- 3M- Imperial hand glaze #05990, use on blue and the white pads. Note- This is a hand glaze but it works great on polishing pads. Let me know when your ready to polish and I'll give you a few pointers.

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[sodaworks]

Pads and compounds will be avail. at your local automotive paint supply house.