Markito's vendo 56 (ha56b) restoration

[Bob K]

I think what someone said was that if you do all the prep work yourself, then have Maaco just paint it, you should be ok.  Do not let them do the prep work.  Have it ready to shoot when you bring it in.

Yes, most of the people say Maaco do bad or no prepwork.
But I have no experience with Maaco so I can`t judge it.
May I ask how much your paint job will be? I think if You do the prepwork well and they are really cheap Maaco is okay.
A good prepwork is the most important presupposition for a great paintjob.
Lars

[MoonDawg]

Remove any faceplates or bezels, so you can sand and paint underneath. If anything still needs to be masked off, do it yourself. You will be much more particular than them.
       Plus, the more you do yourself, the bodyshop's time is reduced and hopefully their charges

I have found this in a car forum

I use to work at maaco, and for all of you, your wrong. way way off on how it works there. you get what you pay for. and you pay for what you choose. theres a giant idiot board on the wall that you can pick and choose your package from.. and YES, they do prep and sand and primer and all that other good stuff. but of course, since it is a production shop, there might be some flaws, mainly overspray, but thats where the detailer comes in, so if id does have probas like that, its the detailers fault, i worked every position there. true though, most of their paint jobs dont last long, since, they are limited to a set amount of paint per car, so they have just enough paint to cover the car, 1 piss coat, and one final coat to cover, not to mention they are single stage paints, so of course it'll chip a little easier than base/clear, which they also do, but for not a very cheap price. like i said before, you get what you pay for, so dont gothere expecting to get a $3000 job for only the pocket change that you give them. But go there and look at some of their other work, it all depends on how much pride the employess take in their work.

[loman4ec]

I used them once on my first car (well truck). I did the body work and they painted. It turned out great. Their problem is that their body work is bad. They don't tape and will paint over grease or anything. They even will agree that if you prep it it is better. Also they use Dupont NASON paint which is what I have always used and it is good stuff. I wouldn't suggest it for an outside machine since it fades but for a coke machine that will be in a game room it should be fine. I am going to have them paint my GE fridge.

Thanks everyone for your views.
I plan on doing all the prep work myself.
I think I'm going to take it there for the paint job since I can barely afford their low prices as it is and I can't leave my machine looking like it does.
Thanks.

Quote (Markito @ Mar. 02 2005,9:50)

1) I did do a test vend of one of my Mexican Coke bottles and I had to pull very hard. Ideally, should it pull out easily? Or is it a hard tug regardless? I haven't used one of these machines since I was a little kid, so I don't remember. 2) I assume I have to lubricate all of the bottle rack's moving parts. What lube do you all use? Also, should I find some "food safe" type oil (like for food concession parts) so that if any rubs off on the bottles it will be no biggie for my guests?

Hi guys, no one answered the questions (quoted above) that I posted in this thread about a week ago. Could you all please comment? Thanks so much.

[Creighton]

Hey Kito,

Somewhere along the line missed your questions, sorry. Here's my shot in the dark:-) Wiser souls please chime in.

1) Your bottle should pull out without too much effort. Course that is if the bottle is not to big around. Not sure what box of yours we are talking about. Looking at the box "face on" with main door open, to the lower right of each bottle vend hole. You may see three holes with a rod that sets the shelf "height". Go with lower left. This has worked for me with water/beer bottles (attached pic). If the bottle is too big a problem can occur if the "roller cam" can't go "up" far enough and cause binding. Try a normal beer bottle and compare against the mexican bottle and you should be able to see what is going on.

2) Racks do work better with some friction reducer. Don't need much though. I like to use a cotten swap with a little 3 in 1 oil on it for pivot/points, cams and slider plates. Just a dab will do ya.
I'd be surprised if any small oiling of these parts would migrate over and poision the guests :-) No matter what you use it will build up dust and dirt and need cleaning every now and again. No big thing just part of the hobby.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Best, Creighton

Creighton,
Thanks so much for the photo and advice. Since I am brand new to glass door machines, I hadn't ven noticed the three adjusting holes yet. Hopefully that will help. Q-tip application is a good idea. Thanks.

Any other folks that can chime in?

[BryanH]

'Kito - Depending how long the machine has sat it just might need some stretching exercises to loosen up again.  Take your bottles out and work with the door open.  Trigger a vend cycle (coins of free vend) and then push one of the roller cams forward by hand.  Do this for each of the cams and several times each.  If the problem you are having is just lack of use, you'll notice that each cam gets easire to move after 5 or 6 vends.