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Author Topic: How to remove the liner?  (Read 8502 times)
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addamb
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« on: July 08, 2014, 01:35:49 pm »

I'm just curious, is liner removal as simple as pull out everything inside, take out all the screws inside and around the edge of the liner and then pull it out? This is for a V-90 FYI. Also do the breaker strips stay behind and you remove those after the liner is removed? I hear alot of people talking about ruining the breaker strips when they remove the liner, how do i avoid that?


Thanks!
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« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2014, 01:45:01 pm »

I have not done a V-90, but can't imagine they are much different than any other upright.

yes you will have to remove the breaker strips.. and if you do it carefully enough you should be able to save them? but if your restoring your machine they will look like crap next to a new paint job. so might as well budget for new ones..

I am not certain of the all the screw locations on the v90 so you'll have to make sure to remove them all and the drain hose.

Good luck
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addamb
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« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2014, 02:34:03 pm »

I have not done a V-90, but can't imagine they are much different than any other upright.

yes you will have to remove the breaker strips.. and if you do it carefully enough you should be able to save them? but if your restoring your machine they will look like crap next to a new paint job. so might as well budget for new ones..

I am not certain of the all the screw locations on the v90 so you'll have to make sure to remove them all and the drain hose.

Good luck

Thanks!! Do the breaker strips stay behind in the machine and the tank slides past them? Sorry i can't find any pictures of them still installed inside the machine without the liner installed and i can't picture how they attatch.
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« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2014, 05:25:21 pm »

I have not done a V-90, but can't imagine they are much different than any other upright.

but if your restoring your machine they will look like crap next to a new paint job. so might as well budget for new ones..

Good luck

You could always re-paint them...
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tkaz
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« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2014, 08:24:01 pm »

I did my V-90 several years ago, but if I remember correctly you need to remove the screws from around the liner and there are a few on the back as well.  I'll see if I can dig up any photos to help you out. 

I ended up using a phenolic material from a local sign shop, everything worked out pretty well and I have been using the machine for a year or so with no problems.

Here's that thread: http://soda-machines.com/discussions/index.php/topic,14228.0.html
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« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2014, 08:33:31 pm »

Here's a photo of the top corner of my V-90, the breaker strips slide into the slots on the front and then the liner just rests over them after they are installed.  If yours aren't cracked, a coat of satin black plastic paint should do the job for you.  I used that paint on the entire door liner and it looks new and hasn't shown any signs of deteriorating yet.
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addamb
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2014, 06:28:13 am »

Here's a photo of the top corner of my V-90, the breaker strips slide into the slots on the front and then the liner just rests over them after they are installed.  If yours aren't cracked, a coat of satin black plastic paint should do the job for you.  I used that paint on the entire door liner and it looks new and hasn't shown any signs of deteriorating yet.

That's perfect!! That's the pic i'm needing thank you!!

So in theory these stay in place and you pull the tank past them and out, and then pull the breaker strips out of the slots right? Also how does the drain tube work? Is it physicaly attatched to the buttom of the tank?

Sorry for all the questions, i'm gonna have the house to myself for a couple weeks in September, so it's gonna be a good time to do all this so i'm string to get all my eggs in a basket beforehand. Cool
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« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2014, 11:22:59 am »

Quote
So in theory these stay in place and you pull the tank past them and out, and then pull the breaker strips out of the slots right?
  Exactly

The drain tube in mine was held in place with some kind of glue, not solder, so I was able to get it free and reuse afterwards.  If yours looks like it's glued, take a razor and score around the outside then try to work it free.
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addamb
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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2014, 11:57:47 am »

  Exactly

The drain tube in mine was held in place with some kind of glue, not solder, so I was able to get it free and reuse afterwards.  If yours looks like it's glued, take a razor and score around the outside then try to work it free.


Thanks!! Do i slide the liner out with the tube still attatched, and then tip it forward so the tube will clear the breaker strips when i get to that point? Or do i cut it as flush as i can underneith before i remove the liner? I'm going to replace it either way because it's a hardened orange mess, but i wanna do whatever is the easier to remove the liner.
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« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2014, 12:19:46 pm »

Also how do i get the door off? Do i just unplug the wiring harness and it lifts off the hinge pins? Or is there more involved?
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« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2014, 12:42:50 pm »

You should be able to get the tube to push out from the bottom through the top before you remove the liner...I think you could get the liner out even if you don't, but you might run into issues angling it out.

The door does just lift off the hinges, just make sure the wiring harness is free like you said.
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addamb
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« Reply #11 on: July 10, 2014, 01:00:09 pm »

You should be able to get the tube to push out from the bottom through the top before you remove the liner...I think you could get the liner out even if you don't, but you might run into issues angling it out.

The door does just lift off the hinges, just make sure the wiring harness is free like you said.

Awesome thank you! Looks like things are for the most part as straight forward as they look. I've been tarnished after years of working on old pinball machines where nothing EVER is as easy as it looks!  tounge
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