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Author Topic: Vendo 63  (Read 14831 times)
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jasmine64
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« Reply #20 on: February 11, 2005, 11:03:17 am »

Moon Dawg
what are you willing to part with?

The main issues I have with the machine right now is the door panel to the coin mech and sign needing to be replaced.

Is there a post somewhere I can read how to drill out the door lock being I have no key?
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Marsha

Cav. CD 22
Choice Vend 168 - Use daily.
jasmine64
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« Reply #21 on: February 11, 2005, 11:05:30 am »

BTW can this machine be set to vend cans?
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Marsha

Cav. CD 22
Choice Vend 168 - Use daily.
Paul M.
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« Reply #22 on: February 12, 2005, 12:13:47 am »

jasmine,
I recently had to drill my lock also.  What I did was get a bit for my Dremel tool that is made for grinding metal.  The cutting part was about the same diameter as the shank.  I used this to route out the lock.

If you look closely at your lock you will see 7 or 8 pins down inside the grove.  The idea is to route out the outside edge of that groove until those pins fall out.  Once you get the pins and their springs out you will be able to turn the lock.

It took me about 10 minutes to get into mine.  Once the door is open you can remove the lock assy. and take it to a locksmith to match up with a replacement lock.

There is a special bit made specifically for drilling these types of locks but they run about $45 and are available only through locksmith supply companies.  You could also pay a locksmith to pick it and then make a key, but the one I talked to charged $60 an hour and couldn't guarantee he could open it.  So I drilled it myself for the price of a Dremel bit, about $5.  The new lock was $15.

Good luck with your project.  I hope it goes well for you.
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sodaworks
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« Reply #23 on: February 12, 2005, 01:16:48 am »

I use a 5/16" drill bit to drill out all my locks. It takes about one minute. Drill out the lock and insert a large flat blade screw driver to turn and open the lock. Works every time. Terry
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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joesquid
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« Reply #24 on: February 12, 2005, 01:59:08 am »

Here's a very crudely drawn picture of the standard slotted key lock.  This is what you will see if you look dead-on into the keyhole (with a bright light source).  As already mentioned, there are seven brass pins that can be drilled out by using a very small drill bit to slide into the keyhole (thick, black, slotted ring).  The pins are not to scale, actually somewhat smaller, but the point is, you drill straight into them (note the red crosses) through the keyhole.  Brass is soft so a drill bit will chew through the pins pretty quick.  All seven pins hold down a spring assembly that will allow the "T" bar (rectangular frame piece on the lock) to pop out thus disengaging the lock, then you just rotate the "T" bar (lefty loosey) to open the machine.  You can tell when you've managed to drill out all seven pins because the spring asembly should pop the "T" bar out on it's own (or with a small amount of persuasion i.e. the screwdriver noted above).

Hope this helps




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Eric "Joe Squid" Johnson

1955 Vendo 23 - awaiting restoration
1959 Westinghouse WC-44SK - awaiting parts
1967 Cavalier CS-64G - functional in house
1969 Vendo 63 - in restoration
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« Reply #25 on: February 12, 2005, 01:00:19 pm »

there seems to be some very knowledgable people here  - Can anyone give me any info or tell me where to find info on the dip switch settings for a Cavalier USS - 64 coke machine? I cant seem to get the selection levers to disengage to allow the bottles to drop.
Thanks,
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joesquid
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« Reply #26 on: February 12, 2005, 04:26:39 pm »

I tried tranferring the word document picture to a .jpeg format so you can more easily see what I'm trying to describe.
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Eric "Joe Squid" Johnson

1955 Vendo 23 - awaiting restoration
1959 Westinghouse WC-44SK - awaiting parts
1967 Cavalier CS-64G - functional in house
1969 Vendo 63 - in restoration
Paul M.
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« Reply #27 on: February 15, 2005, 01:01:40 am »

Eric,
Similar lock configuration, but my V-63 doesn't have the T-handle.  Its simulated.  When the lock is turned with the key it raises the sliding lock bar by rotating a cam.
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jasmine64
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« Reply #28 on: February 16, 2005, 02:45:38 pm »

Paul is your lock cast into a trim piece that looks like a t handel.
That is the way mine is.

Anyway, I ordered a new lock and a repair plate from funtronics to remedy the top and bottom holes. This should do the trick and lock the door.
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Marsha

Cav. CD 22
Choice Vend 168 - Use daily.
Paul M.
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« Reply #29 on: February 17, 2005, 12:08:09 am »

jasmine,
No, it isn't "cast into" the trim piece.  The lock is held to the trim piece by a large nut and the trim piece is held to the door by two screws.  Here's how I disassembled, even though you already said you got yours out.

Remove the nut holding the cam on.
Remove the cam.
Remove the lockbar
Remove the two screws holding the trim plate.
Remove the trim plate.
Remove the nut on the lock.
Remove the lock from the trim plate.

That's how I did it.  But the lock can be removed from the trim plate without removing the trim plate from the door.  The point is, though, that the lock and trim plate are not all one piece.  The lock can be removed from the trim plate and a new one installed in its place.
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