Paul's project 63

[Paul M.]

A guy I work with told me about some stuff called POR-15 for patching holes.  Supposedly it comes with corrosion neutralizer.  I'll look into it and let you know what I find.

I think I would feel better if the entire floor area could collect moisture.  So if I could patch the holes then that would be good.  One alternative I do not want to pursue is taking the liner to a welder to cut out the rusted areas and weld in new metal.

Edited to add that I picked up a motor today from a refrigeration parts place.  Cost was $27 and change and the fit was perfect.  I'll try to check that compressor out tomorrow morning.

[Paul M.]

Good news!  The air conditioning system works!  I hooked up the new fan and wired it all back together and plugged it in.  Within minutes frost started forming on the evaporator coil.  I'm tickled about this.  This was the largest of my concerns.  I didn't want to have to buy a new compressor.

I also removed the liner today.  I'm glad I did.  The insulation in the bottom was water-logged and, after removing it, there was a thick, crusty layer of rust or dried coke or something.  I scraped it out with a trowel and I'm letting it dry out.  I'll take the shop vac to it once its dry and try to clean up the rest of the crud.  I still haven't decided what to do about the liner.

A few more questions:
1)  In a few strategic places there was some putty that had become hard and brittle.  It broke away during disassembly.  It was used to close up any gaps made by the door gasket where the wires go from the cooler area to the condenser area.  What kind of putty is it?  Can I find it at Home Depot or do I need to go to the refrigeration supply store?

2)  Are all of the captive links supposed to be under spring tension?  The two just above the master link do not have any springs attached and seem to work just by gravity.  Is this correct?

3)  On occassion the master link would stick.  Should I just lube it with some white moly spray?  Or does it need to be disassembled and greased?

4)  Does the vend solenoid need to be lubed?  There's no return spring and seems to return just by gravity.  Is this correct?

5)  My restoration manual talks about a carrier switch.  My machine doesn't have one.  And I didn't see any wires to attach to one, either.  It has the S75-9800B coin changer.  Is this carrier switch required for my machine?  Do I need to add this and wire it in somehow?

Thanks for all the help you guys have given me.  Its really appreciated.

[Paul M.]

bump

[BrianB]

Paul - I think I can help on #1. I had the same dilemna when I broke apart my VF117. I noticed this nasty black putty (along with all of the rust and syrup build-up!) I removed all of it and then blasted the interior of the machine. I figured that the sealant was something similar to body panel/refrigerator seam sealant. I wasn't 100% sure. I called the guys at Soda Jerk Works and they informed me that it really wasn't needed to complete my restoration project.

When the do their restorations they don't re-seal. They say that in their experience they've found that leaving it un-sealed actually lets the machine "breath" better. Sounds like a good idea but......one thing I do know about stuff that was built "back in the day" is that the manufacturers didn't use anything "extra" in the build. Everything had a purpose. On the other hand, Soda Jerk Works has been restoring machines for quite sometime and I know a few people that own some of their work and they are flawless! So, to make a long story short, Seal if you want to or leave it out. Or better yet, give Soda Jerk Work's a call!   '>

[Paul M.]

Thanks Brian.

Anyone know about the carrier switch?

[Paul M.]

Just an update on the rusty liner repair.  I've decided to use Loctite's metal/concrete epoxy.  Best I can tell, its pretty much the same thing as their metalset that they sell to the government, only this stuff sets up in 5 minutes.

What I'll probably do after removing the rust with a wire wheel is put some tape on one side and some wire screen on the other.  Then I'll coat the screen with the epoxy, bonding it to the liner.  The screen will help to bridge the holes.  Then after it cures remove the tape.

After the holes are patched I'll spray some Cold Galvanizing Compound over it all.  This stuff comes in a spray can from Rust-Oleum for a little over five bucks.  This should prevent further rusting.

I'll put it all back together and that should have me up and running as long as there are no problems with the coin mech.  Man, those Orange Crushes are going to be great in about two months when I have to start cutting the grass again!

[Paul M.]

Well, the epoxy idea worked out pretty good.  By putting the tape on the inside of the liner, it allowed me to make the epoxy fairly smooth, not like a big lump.  With the evaporator installed you cant even see that it was repaired, except for the cold galvanizing compound.  It looks a lot like grey primer.  But I'm not concerned.  The idea was to stop the rust and fix the holes.

I did get it all back together this weekend.  And it works great!  Had my first drink out of it last night for dinner.  I went to WalMart and picked up a freezer/refrigerator thermometer to use inside the machine so I can monitor the temperature.  While there I also picked up some Sprite, IBC Cream Soda, and Grape Crush so that all my shelves will have something to vend.

I only have 3 issues to tend to:

1)  The coin changer wouldn't make change.  All I had on hand was 2 nickles, so I figure I might need more or the out-of-change switch has a problem.  I'm saving up nickles to see.

2)  Coke light not lit.  No biggy.  I can figure that one out.

3)  Use Correct Change light not lit.  I haven't looked yet, but is this bulb accessed from the front (by removing the changer) or back of the door?  What do I need to do to get to it?

[Paul M.]

Oh, and I still have to get a new vend door seal.

[Paul M.]

Another update...

The coin changer is working OK now.  (See 9800B Changer thread.)  And I have a door seal on order from Fun-Tronics.  The guy is due back on Wednesday so my order won't be filled until he gets back.

All the lights are working now.  The Correct Change light just needed a bulb.  But the door sign light gave me fits.  I blew 3 new fluorescent bulbs before getting it to work.  It ended up being the ballast coil.  And now it has a new starter as well.  At $6.59 + tax per bulb, it was an expensive lesson on old style fluorescent lights.  Home Depot had all the parts.

So now I'm pretty much finished working on it, as soon as the new seal is put in.  I'll leave it alone for awhile, though maybe down the road I'll decide it needs a new paint job and take it apart again.

Thanks for everyone's help and opinions.  It's good that you guys will help out us novices.  It IS appreciated!'>

Glad it's all working out for you.
I learn new stuff here every single day.
Enjoy a cold drink from your machine for us. '>