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Author Topic: Has anyone ever painted the inner compartment?  (Read 11363 times)
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BryanH
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« on: February 04, 2005, 05:16:44 pm »

The inside of my machine is a little worn. I don't want to go to the bother or expense of replacing it but I want it to look good when I'm done. And I don't think I'll get that polished look by just cleaning and scrubbing.

Has anyone had any experience with painting the inside?  My shell is <<galvanized>> steel so I'm assuming that I'd need some kind of special paint?

Any recommendations or random thoughts?




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Kevin C
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« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2005, 06:06:50 pm »

Hello

Looks like galvinized metal to me but anyways go to you local store (Lowe's or HD) and purchase the stainless steel (grey) paint a color of the rustolium brand. After cleaning & allowing to dry the paint works good to cover the old look. I also spray paint the upper evaporator coil case to make it look good.

Kevin




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BryanH
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« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2005, 06:15:04 pm »

Kevin - you're right it is galvanized metal... don't know where the stainless thought came from.  Does rustoleum have a special kind of paint for galvanized metal or can I buy any kind?
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2005, 08:49:22 pm »

Hey Bryan. How about scrubbing the inside, then use rust inhibitor on the floor and rinse.  You'll have a clean interior. Then fill the rust pits in the floor and paint.   Save yourself a lot time and money.
       Also, hammertome paints have been holding up well under extreme temperature applications such as this




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Glen
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« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2005, 09:00:29 pm »

Yeah, Hammertone paint would look cool. I guess I went overboard, I had my liner for my VF117 powdercoated gray. It was justified though.

I originally brought the guy a bottle shelf to have it powdercoated more to check and see what kind of work he did. Well, when I came to pick it up he asked if it was for a soda pop machine and I said it was. He mentioned to me that when he moved into the building it came with a Pop machine! It's and old Choice Vend bottle/can vendor with the can sanitizer. He asked If I'd take a look at it and see if I could fix it. Well I ended up fixing it for him and now we trade work for work! I've had to go back for a couple of "service calls" to fix things when they "break" (popped breaker, dirty coin mech).

I was originally going to use Cold Galvanizing and clearcoat for all of my zinc coated parts. I used that combo on my evaporator housing and condensor fan housing and it looks great!
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Eric
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« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2005, 11:45:51 pm »

I'm getting the inside of my 39 powder coated front and back
Heard it's about the best finish to do!!! It last and is
tough! TOUGH! It's a baking process BITW does it to their machines. Could also have it zinc plated then sealed. That would look closer to the galvanized. But can scratch and if it's not sealed it will oxidize like galvanized.

I know you can't re-galvanize that a hot process and it will warp the crap out of it!
Powder coating isn't that expensive (at least not where I'm at...Missouri) Look under painting. That has my vote!

Eric
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loman4ec
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« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2005, 12:59:48 am »

They also sell zink paint. I have never used it but I have always wondered if it would look good.
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Paul M.
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« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2005, 01:09:07 am »

I did a Google search the other day on "cleaning galvinized metal" and got a lot of info on prepping for painting and what kind of paints to use.
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2005, 02:21:21 pm »

Brian...What is cold galvanizing ?
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Glen
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« Reply #9 on: February 05, 2005, 04:01:04 pm »

Glen,

"Cold Galvanizing" refers to painting with a semi-galvanized product. Since the galvanizing process is performed in a very hot solution, and in many cases cannot be duplicated after parts are fabricated due to warpage, a type of paint called cold galvanizing spray is used to touch up areas that may have become scratched/scuffed during assembly.

I personally don't think it holds up as well as the original process but is necessary to prevent rust forming in the damaged locations.

HammeRite (aka Hammer Tone) paint is nice and durable but takes some practice to spray properly. I also think you'll get better results if you spray with a traditional paint gun setup instead of spray bomb cans! Another note about this technique is that the total curring process is approx. 4 - 6 weeks, but once curred, it is a very durable and slick surface. The other nice thing is that this paint is forgiving for hiding flaws such as pits and imperfections.

If you can afford to, my recommendation would be to go the powder-coat method...
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My six cents,

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