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Author Topic: Wiring in a Power Cord  (Read 7678 times)
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Pixel
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« on: September 04, 2013, 12:12:48 AM »

I hope it's okay if I ask this here. Is the procedure for wiring a new power cord the same for Cavalier and Vendo square tops, or is it machine-specific? Do I need any special terminals on the wire ends? I searched the forum, but couldn't find an answer.
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2013, 08:18:18 AM »

       A power cord comes with a new wiring harness. The harness may vary in different machines but replacement is always the same.
You only need to buy a few ring terminals, the rest is pretty straight forward.
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Glen
Pixel
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« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2013, 11:25:17 AM »

In the factory wiring setup, is the power cord made into the wiring harness, or is there there a set of terminals on a block that the individual wires connect to?
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wee
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« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2013, 11:30:36 AM »

Maybe this post on my blog will help....This was on a Vendo 80  not sure if it's that same or not.

http://vendo80.blogspot.com/2012/09/started-working-on-wiring.html

Brian
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Pixel
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« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2013, 11:52:49 AM »

I bet that's gonna be pretty close. A lot of these things seem to have been more or less standardized fairly quickly. If I wanted either a quick fix or a test setup, would there be anything wrong with just wiring a decent computer power cable (those fairly thick round ones the three rectangular holes on the female end) into that block?
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Pixel
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« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2013, 02:19:34 PM »

         Power cords get dragged when moving and get damaged.

         This later style Cavalier actually uses an extension cord as it's main power cord.  Good thinking there, easy to change.

I brought this quote over because it occurs to me that if I were re-wiring an older machine anyway, I could do the same thing by cutting a properly rated outdoor extension cord in two near the male end, and wire the male end into the junction block. I know I'm not the first person to think of this, but I wanted to know-is there any reason this idea would be any more dangerous or undesirable than wiring in a complete cord?
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stuntpilot
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« Reply #6 on: September 19, 2013, 04:05:08 AM »

There's no problem using an properly rated outdoor extension cord for a power cord, just buy the correct connectors to terminate the ends, these will probably be eye terminals. You will also need to buy a crimper.

I would use type SO rubber cord, it will last a lot longer. You can buy new 6 or 9 foot cords at any large box store or build your own.

You could put a computer block in there but I wouldn't, you want to have a more solid connection for the in-rush current that you have with a compressor.

All cords are rated and labeled, just look on the jacket and reference the ampacity chart below.


http://www.stayonline.com/reference-circuit-ampacity.aspx
« Last Edit: September 19, 2013, 04:17:44 AM by stuntpilot » Logged
Pixel
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« Reply #7 on: September 19, 2013, 06:28:04 PM »

Thank you for showing me that information. Smiley

How would I identify type SO power cord?

You advised against wiring in "a computer block". Did you mean an IEC 3-pin connector like this would plug into?

http://www.amazon.com/IEC-POWER-CORD-PLUG-CONNECTOR/dp/B002T0JMTY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_lg_2

Should I base the current rating on the labeled rating of the machine (about 7 amps on some machines)?

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stuntpilot
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« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2013, 02:49:49 AM »

SO cord can be identified by the markings on the sheathing. All cord and wire can be identified this way if it's not wore off.
Any cord in the 600 volt category will work for you, the only difference is in the type of the insulation and stranding. You just need basic 600 volt 16 guage rubber cord with a black, white and green. Home Depot or Lowes will have it on the rolls at the bulk wire rack. Don't forget the cord cap. (plug)  If your not comfortable making your own cord just buy a 6 or 9 foot pre made whip, 16 guage, these usually have a fork already crimped on the green wire.

Since your original probably isn't grounded you will need to drill and tap a ground screw to connect the green wire to the chassis of the machine somewhere.

Yes, I wouldn't put one of those in, it's not adequate for the in rush current. Your just adding a connection you don't need and it will eventually fail.

Yes, base it on the name plate rating, we usually never allow more than 80% of the cord rating.  
So as an example if your nameplate rating is 8 amps use a minimum of a 10 amp rated cord.

 
« Last Edit: September 20, 2013, 03:46:32 AM by stuntpilot » Logged
MoonDawg
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« Reply #9 on: September 20, 2013, 09:24:09 AM »

      It is not advisable to use regular power cord and add the plug to it for outdoor use, as it will not be water resistant

      Your original idea of cutting an extension cord was ok but like the Pilot said, needless extra connections.

      After installing a power cord, always clamp a section of it to the compressor base to absorb the strain of a hard pull against your connections.
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Glen
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