7UP square top big coin door....?

[wee]

Well the wiring is brittle but I didn't see any places where it was touching so I got brave and plunged it in....I only let it run for 2 or 3 minutes....Both fans run, the compressor kicked on and the upper coils were getting cold....No way was I gonna leave it on long enough to actually cool the box down...It has to have a rewire first.

Is this machine really post 1960...?

I do have a question about the vend mechanism....See pic below.

What function does this switch do....?   Unless it's a manual vend switch I can't see anything that would activate it....? It's the red one on the left I'm talking about.



Brian

[johnieG]

It (the switch shown in the prior post) operates the CREM coils in the coinmech.  basically it prevents the machine from accepting any coins until the bottle from the prior sale is pulled from the rack ( and in doing so resets the rack)

[wee]

Is there something missing or broken....? Because I don't see anything that would activate it. I didn't try to get it to vend when it was plugged up because I had already taken the door off...But when the solenoid is pulled down it will vend and will only vend once till it's pulled again, which I guess is how it works.

Brian

[johnieG]

Yep.  Now that you mentioned it & I looked closer at your picture, the pin that hits the little lever on the switch is broken off!  you can see were it was spot welded to the link/lever that slides back & forth to pull in the latching mechanism when the solenoid gets pulsed. it's a pretty easy fix to drill the link & install a 1" long #6/28 threaded rod or bolt & a nut to hold it in place..

[wee]

These clutch head screws are a real pain....I won't put the machine back together with them.  The bit seems too tight I have to tap it in or I'm afraid I will strip them out. Hope to get the cooling unit out while tinkering around in the shed today.

Brian

[MaineT]

The only thing I found using the rustmort, I sprayed it on the white librally and it ran down on the red (coke machine) and left streaking because I left it too long. On the all white, that's not an issue, but be attentive to spray an even coat if possible and keep a closer eye then I did. You may be able to avoid my issue of streaking. It sort of bleached the red out, and lifted the paint in the worst spot.

Rookie mistakes, and all my fault! It's great stuff.

[wee]

I think I will start at the bottom and work my way up....I'm also thinking about covering the logos with cling wrap....I will do a test first to see how the rustmort reacts to it. I will also see how it reacts to the chrome.

So far I haven't stripped out a screw...Knock on wood.

The cooling rack I built for my Vendo 80 is gonna work great for the 7up.

Brian

[johnieG]

I think I will start at the bottom and work my way up....I'm also thinking about covering the logos with cling wrap....I will do a test first to see how the rustmort reacts to it. I will also see how it reacts to the chrome.

So far I haven't stripped out a screw...Knock on wood.

The cooling rack I built for my Vendo 80 is gonna work great for the 7up.

Brian

Be sure to use the correct size & type of bit to remove your clutch head screws. also heat works wonders on rusted screws & bolts to loosen them, but you don't want to swing an open flame near the machines finish & flammable components,

I have used my leather gloves and vise grip pliers & a bolt big enough to just cover the head of the stuck screw , I heat the bolts end up red hot & stick it onto the screws head for about 10-30 seconds, then let it cool & try to back it out, sometimes it takes a few heating/cooling cycles to loosen a stubborn one,  and be aware of where you lay down your "working" tool ( the red-hot bolt) it might tend to set things ablaze.   used this trick on a lot of old car fasteners over the years.

So folks have used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk to cut a slot into a stripped out clutch head to allow a regular screwdriver to turn it out too.   

[jholmgren]

Second what Johnie mentioned about heat - if it won't ruin the finish, the old "smoke wrench" is a great tool to have in your arsenal.  I've had a ton of success using a torch on old rusty car bolts.

I've had some luck with heat/cold cycling using the torch, followed by hitting it with some water or some spray stuff called "Cold Coat" designed as a heat block for sweating pipes.

Jim

[wee]

I didn't have any trouble with the screws while taking the cooling unit out.

Even got the spray paint off the logo....

Brian