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Author Topic: Slider Galvanized Parts - Restoration Question  (Read 10817 times)
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ClassicCokeLover
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« on: November 15, 2012, 07:42:52 am »

I would like to know what the best way to restore the interior galvanized parts of a Glasco Slider. Some say to just paint over it with a cold galvanized paint, others say to powder coat it. I prefer not to cover up the rust with paint, but bring it down to bare metal, then coat it.
Do folks replace with fresh galvanized panels? Cost???
Thanks
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2012, 08:48:50 am »

      The inner liner of a slider is not easy to remove and it's even harder to re-install.
Treat the rust as best you can then coat it in place.
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Glen
Pat Pixley
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« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2012, 12:59:30 pm »

taking the tank out is a big deal ,  the compressor is hooked right into the tank  the line are either soldered to the tank or they have a pitch tar
on them  to hold them into place . and it is a two person job to re-install  the tank if it has a fresh paint job , and you will need to do the cardboard trick.

 myself I do the powder coating, last longer and looks better .
« Last Edit: November 15, 2012, 04:53:27 pm by Custom Soda Works » Logged
ClassicCokeLover
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« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2012, 01:11:07 pm »

Should I remove the copper tubing from the tank prior to having it powder coated? If the tubing was left on, wouldn't the powder coating affect the cooling capability?
(The interior of the machine has already been removed. The shell is painted and ready for re-assembly)
One other thing, should non-faced insulation be used or could you use a foil covered insulation, such as hot water heater insulation wraps?
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johnieG
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« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2012, 09:04:47 pm »

Remember folks, anything that you will have powder-coated will be put into an over at about 400 degrees-F , so pitch/tar will melt & catch fire, & soft solder will melt.  brazing such as on a condenser coil will hold up fine because it takes over 900 degrees-F  to even start to soften it.

The bottom line is the coils will have to come off & the outer tank will have to be cleaned of any and all pitch/tar/oil & soft solder (plumbing solder) Talk to your powder coater to be sure.
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Spray painting does NOT restore a compressor
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coke_and_stuff
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« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2012, 09:19:02 pm »

I have always powdercoated mine

If you take it in and your powdercoater doesnt remove the tar before going into the oven. I would seriously question his work and would find someone else to do it.

Joey
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« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2012, 03:56:57 pm »

I have always powdercoated mine

If you take it in and your powdercoater doesnt remove the tar before going into the oven. I would seriously question his work and would find someone else to do it.

Joey

and if they didn't charge you extra labor for removing it, I'd be amazed!
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Spoon-feeding Newbies since 2001...Wink
Yeah..220,221 whatever it takes.
Remember, all it needs is a shot of Freon!
The Vendo V-83 is the '59 Edsel of the coke machine world. ;p
Spray painting does NOT restore a compressor
11 is louder than 10...
"Hope" is good, but it's not an action plan.
ClassicCokeLover
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« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2012, 10:52:02 am »

OK, I found a Powder Coating Service. However, they claim that the soldered connections cannot be reattached after powder coated.  help
I am referring to the liner with the coil attached and tube for the t-stat. How do you guys reattach to the coating?

Thanks
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« Reply #8 on: November 28, 2012, 10:40:51 am »

I've done a few different things but the one that worked best was to not solder them back on , just use an automotive sealant or some Automotive putty... I ' am not sure what what it was called but it was used to attached trim on cars or something like that.. it was puty that stiffened up and held the line in place for reinstallation.
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2012, 11:30:31 am »

       In the automotive sunroof industry we used to use "Butyl". It's a black tar that sticks 2 surfaces together pretty well.
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Glen
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