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Author Topic: Slider insulation between liner/tub and slider shell  (Read 5315 times)
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brasskey
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« on: November 13, 2012, 08:07:58 pm »

When I took apart my Atlas slider, it was a little different than the 85 I took apart as far as insulation.  It had fiberglass insulation on the sides (between tub and outside panels) but not between the bottom of the tub and bottom shell panel. (Unlike the 85 and square top I've done with a few blocks to support the liner and insulation in between the blocks).  This tub was supported by three 3/4" pieces of particle board.  As you can see from the picture below, the particle board was swelled up pretty good after holding water for decades.  Should I replace with three pieces of 3/4" wood like original or should I make a few blocks/supports for the tub and put fiberglass insulation everywhere else?


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kbareit
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« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2012, 08:24:18 pm »

My Cavalier chest cooler is the same way. I'm planning on using 1/2" treated plywood and the blue foam board. The plywood would support the bottom of the liner and not rot out and the foam board should insulate well and also reduce some of the weight compared to the MDF board. That's my plan hope it helps.  smile
                                                       Ken
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brasskey
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« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2012, 08:39:33 pm »

My Cavalier chest cooler is the same way. I'm planning on using 1/2" treated plywood and the blue foam board. The plywood would support the bottom of the liner and not rot out and the foam board should insulate well and also reduce some of the weight compared to the MDF board. That's my plan hope it helps.  smile
                                                       Ken

Thanks. I'll try that.

I also forgot to ask, is R-19 the preferred insulation for sliders?
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johnieG
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« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2012, 08:58:53 pm »

Yes R-19 is fine, just remember to use unfaced type of insulation ( no Kraft-paper backing), if you do go with rigid blue or pink foam board for the bottom, be sure to under-coat the tanks bottom to help keep the condensation from rust it out, as the foam wont be able to wick away the sweat like fiberglass does, also even when I do use rigid foam, I put down a thin layer of fiberglass between the foam & the bottom of the tank to help prevent any gaps due to dents & such in the tank bottom & as mentioned above, wick away any condensation, then I use low expanding foam in a can to seal along the edges ( used as chalking basically) and I use 3M brand spay adhesive to hold the fiber glass batt to the sides of the cooler while I reinstall the liner (tank) with cardboard to help keep the insulation from snagging on the refrigeration lines. 
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brasskey
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« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2012, 09:37:23 pm »

Thanks Johnie. I'll post my progress.
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